Are you stuck in a cultural rut? Do you feel disconnected from local life? Don’t fret – there is life beyond Chaoyang Park and jazzy Sunday brunches. Beijing is a city rich in history and culture, which can often be accessed at often dirt-cheap prices. We forego the usual suspects to bring you a roundup of cultural activities, centers, classes, and parks that bring you closer to finding your inner Beijinger.
Cultural Centers and Cooking Schools
Black Sesame Kitchen
What better way to get into the culture of a country than through its food? Black Sesame Kitchen is a cooking school and private dining venue founded by Jen Lin-Liu, chef and author of Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China. The school was born out of Lin-Liu’s experiences interning at several restaurants in Beijing and Shanghai, and hosting cooking classes in friends’ homes. Black Sesame Kitchen’s regular events include weekly cooking classes and a Friday Wine n’ Dine featuring a 10-course gourmet Chinese dinner prepared right in front of you. Note that all visits are by appointment only.
China Culture Center
China Culture Center (CCC) is a travel service, educational organization, and cultural center all rolled into one. It provides a platform for the English-speaking community to discover everything about China, “from Confucius to calligraphy, Genghis Khan to green tea, foot binding to feng shui.” Their services fall into three categories: guided tours, classes and events, and corporate travel services. Classes cover a wide range of topics, including practical Chinese, tuina massage, business culture, mahjong, cooking, calligraphy, seal-carving, and more.
The Hutong 树之灵
The Hutong is a cultural center that connects expats, visitors, and locals in a convivial learning environment. It was recently the subject of a 30-minute CCTV documentary that stars co-founders Stacey Shine and Mark Thirlwall. Their programs include tea journeys, arts and crafts, tours, youth classes, cooking events, and health workshops. Facilities include The Hutong Kitchen, where a variety of cuisines are taught. In addition, the center often partners with organizations like Heyrobics, The Bookworm, Chi Fan for Charity, and Bespoke Beijing for special events.
Activities
Fly an Iconic Kite
Kite flying is a seasonal tradition in China and signals the arrival of spring. The kite of choice for many locals is called yashayan (崖沙燕) or sand martin, a migratory bird that closely resembles a swallow. The legend goes that Cao Xueqin, author of Dream of the Red Chamber, taught poor villagers how to make a living from making this simple kite. In Beijing, it’s tradition to cut the kite string to symbolize that bad luck is – quite literally – gone with the wind. Try Sanshizhai Kite Store, or make your own at China Culture Center.
Make a Traditional Chinese Handicraft
Test your dexterity (and patience) with one of China’s many traditional handicrafts. No good at knot-tying? Then try your hand at painting clay figurines, fashioning iron lanterns, building your own kite, blowing a delicate sugar sculpture, egg carving, papercutting, or calligraphy. The beauty of this variety is that there’s something for everyone. To book a class, try Gift of Hope, Shuiguiqi Traditional Cultural Workshop, or China Culture Center.
Seek Out Birds of a Feather
At various parks around Beijing, old men in faded Mao suits gather to indulge a curious hobby: showing off their pet birds. They hold clothcovered bamboo cages with tiny robins, sparrows, finches, and more. Some can perform elaborate tricks, which their owners show off with pride. Strike up a conversation with one of these bird tamers, bring your own feathered friend, or simply take in the scene. Birds, cages, and other accessories can be found at Guanyuan Bird and Fish Market.
Play Jianzi at the Park
If you know how to play hacky sack, then you know how to play jianzi (毽子). Also known as “Chinese hacky sack” in English, this popular folk game features a weighted shuttlecock with four feathers attached to a stack of plastic disks. The goal is to keep the jianzi from touching the ground using various body parts, but not the hands. Want to make friends fast? Show off your fancy footwork by joining a “circle kick” at the park or on the street. Jianzi are widely available at markets (see p58 for a list) and the sporting section of major supermarket chains.
Parks
Jingshan Park 景山公园
Located just north of the Forbidden City, Jingshan Park has the distinction of being both part of Xicheng District and Dongcheng District. The most prominent feature of this former imperial garden is its 46mhigh artificial hill, which was built during the Ming Dynasty from soil excavated from Imperial Palace moats and neighboring canals. The hill was built according to the rules of fengshui; palaces built to the south of a hill were considered especially auspicious. Jingshan is made up of five individual peaks, each with its own pavilion; these peaks were used by officials as gathering places for both work and leisure. The park is particularly popular with elderly locals, who can be can be seen socializing, dancing, singing, or performing kuaiban (a form of oral storytelling) on any given evening. For a truly memorable day, be sure to stop by Beihai Park right next door.
Purple Bamboo Park 紫竹院公园
Consisting of three interconnected lakes, Purple Bamboo Park’s most striking features are its lush bamboo groves. Around 50 species of bamboo are on display, as well as classical landscaped gardens, canals, foot bridges, islands, and hillocks. Be sure to visit the northeastern part of the park to glimpse tour boats from the Summer Palace meandering down the Changhe River. Once you’re done browsing the park’s small crafts market or art museum, drop by one of the many teahouses for a well-deserved break. If you’ve got energy to spare, make it a double or a triple with a trip to the Beijing Zoo or Beijing Aquarium (both are about a 20-minute subway ride or 10-minute cab ride away). See What’s Fun In (p30) for a guide on this area.
Taoranting Park 陶然亭公园
Taoranting Park has a storied past as a gathering place for members of the Qing Dynasty elite. Scholars would assemble to recite and compose poetry or simply to admire the beauty of the moon. The park takes its name from a poem by Tang poet Bai Juyi: 更待菊黄家酿熟,与君一醉一陶然 (Translation: Wait till the chrysanthemums are yellow and homemade wine is ripe, I’ll drink with you and be carefree). Show up early to hear locals bellowing jingju at Taoran Pavilion, take a boat to the middle of the lake, or enjoy a leisurely stroll. Wee ones will like the Mini-Golf Center, Water Wonderland, and Peacock Garden.
RESOURCES
Black Sesame Kitchen
3 Heizhima Hutong, Dongcheng District (136 9147 4408, blacksesamekitchen@gmail.com) http://blacksesamekitchen.com 东城区黑芝麻胡同3号
China Culture Center (CCC)
A-101, Kent Center, Anjialou, 29 Liangma Qiao Lu, Chaoyang District (6432 9341, info@chinaculturecenter.org) www.chinaculturecenter.org 朝阳区亮马桥路29号安家楼肯特中心院内
Gift of Hope
A social enterprise owned and managed by people with disabilities. The group provides handmade gifts and crafts, leadership training, team building, folk art workshops, trips, and more. (service@giftofhope-ysy.com) www.giftofhope-ysy.com
Guanyuan Bird and Fish Market 新官园花鸟鱼虫市场
Daily 9am-5.30pm. Guanyuan Dasha (northeast corner of Zhizhu Qiao), Xisanhuan Lu, Haidian District 海淀区西三环路广源大厦 (近紫竹桥东北角)
The Hutong 树之灵
1 Jiudaowan Zhongxiang Hutong, Dongcheng District (159 0104 6127, info@thehutong.com) http://thehutong.com 东城区九道湾中巷胡同1号
Jingshan Park 景山公园
RMB 10 (Apr 1-Oct 31), RMB 5 (Nov 1-Mar 31). Daily 6.30am-8pm (Jan-Mar, Nov-Dec), daily 6am-9pm (Apr-May, Sep-Oct), daily 6am-10pm (Jun-Aug). 44 Jingshan Xijie, Xicheng District (6404 4071) 西城区景山西街44号
Purple Bamboo Park 紫竹院公园
Free. Daily 6am-9pm (summer), daily 6am-8pm (winter). 35 Zongguancun Nandajie, Haidian District (8841 2800) www.zizhuyuangongyuan.com 海淀区中关村南大街35号
Sanshizhai Kite Store 三石斋风筝店
Daily 10am-8.30pm. 25 Di’anmen Xidajie, Xicheng District (8404 4505, 6403 0393) 西城区地安门西大街甲25号
Shuiguiqi Traditional Cultural Workshop 水归器传统文化手工坊
Unit 6A, 6 Xisi Beiliutiao, Xicheng District (6618 6482) 西城区西四北6条6A号
Taoranting Park 陶然亭公园
RMB 2. Daily 6am-10pm (summer), daily 6.30am-9pm (winter). 19 Taiping Jie, Xuanwu District (6353 2385) 宣武区太平街19号
This article is excerpted from beijingkids May 2012 issue. View it in PDF form here or contact distribution@beijing-kids.com to find out where you can pick up your free copy.