Even in modern-day Beijing, it’s possible to imagine how the emperors used to live by spending a day at the Summer Palace. Once an imperial garden, the Summer Palace (Yiheyuan) now attracts thousands of visitors a day with temples, gardens, hilly ascents and an enormous lake. History buffs can easily spend a whole day exploring the administrative and residential courtyards of days gone by. However, the massive park also offers plenty of outdoor pursuits and hidden corners to keep kids and families busy.

Adults and kids alike will enjoy the Garden of Virtue and Harmony. Three stories tall, it is supposedly China’s best-preserved ancient theater. The Empress Dowager Cixi used to watch actors perform Peking opera here, but now visitors can view short performances of dance, acrobatics, and martial arts, accompanied by musicians on traditional string instruments.

The biggest draw of the Summer Palace, especially in the summer, is Kunming Lake at the center of the park. Designed to imitate West Lake in Hangzhou, man-made Kunming Lake is over two square kilometers in size. You can rent an electric boat, or a pedal boat to get in some exercise and explore at a more leisurely pace. You can also take a dragon boat ferry that crosses over to Nanhu Island.

Another way to reach Nanhu Island is by strolling across the impressive Seventeen Arch Bridge. It’s lined with hundreds of stone lion statues, making for great photo-ops against the scenic lake backdrop. Once you reach Nanhu Island, there is no shortage of hills to climb, with impressive views of the park from the top.

Back on the mainland, Longevity Hill offers plenty of climbing for energetic kids. The back part of the hill has more natural scenery, thick with trees, shrubs, and flowers. Keep climbing and you’ll soon reach a complex that resembles a Tibetan lamasery, supposedly modeled after the Potala Palace in Lhasa. On a clear day this spot offers great views of surrounding Haidian. Around the complex there are also a few mini caves to roam through and rocks to climb on.

Not far from Longevity Hill is Suzhou Market Street, modeled on the southeastern city of Suzhou. The market was meant to be a place where emperors could pretend to shop like ordinary people; eunuchs and maids of the court would add to the game by playing shopkeepers and other customers. Today, visitors can also wander around the market and make-believe they are in 18th century Suzhou. Over 50 old-fashioned shops – handicraft stands, teahouses, clothing stores and the like – line the banks of the canals. Shop assistants also dress in Qing dynasty costumes to add to the atmosphere.

Suzhou Market sits on what is called Back Lake (Houhu), a narrow branch of Kunming Lake. Outside Suzhou Market, the banks of Back Lake are lined with lush vegetation. The stone paths, tall trees and serene surroundings appear more like postcard New England than Beijing. This area receives fewer visitors and is perfect for a long quiet walk or picnic away from crowds. Going east, the lake ends at the Garden of Harmonious Interests, where the classical Chinese surroundings appear again. With willow trees, mini footbridges, pagodas and a lotus pond in the center, this Suzhou-style garden is an ideal spot for a late afternoon break.

Most visitors to the Summer Palace arrive by bus or car, but one particularly fun way to go (in the summer only) is by canal boat. The motorized canopy boat, which you can board from the Beijing Exhibition Center, runs past the Beijing Zoo and the Beijing Aquarium before it reaches the Summer Palace. But whether you arrive by land or water, allow yourself at least five to six hours to explore. There is no reason to hurry through one of the most nostalgic and relaxing places in modern-day Beijing!

Summer Palace
Daily 6.30am-8pm (6pm last ticket).
RMB 30 (Apr 1-Oct 31), students

When warm weather arrives, it’s no wonder Beijing families and visitors flock to Beihai Park. Located south of Houhai and northwest of the Forbidden City, Beihai Park offers over 130 acres of peaceful scenery as an escape from Xicheng’s bustling streets. Whether you want to row a boat on the vast lake, explore caves near the water, or just walk along the tree-lined paths, Beihai has plenty that will appeal to families looking for a day trip.

Built in the tenth century as a summer retreat for the emperor and his kin, Beihai was once part of the Forbidden City. It was opened to the public in 1925 and is now a popular destination all year round. The lake covers more than half the park, and the pagodas and picturesque bridges provide for great photo opportunities. In the summer, the lake is filled with people on boats, basking in the sun. Parents and kids can race each other in rowboats or work their legs on pedal boats. More weary bodies can relax in motorized powerboats with awnings that offer shade from the sun, and for a few kuai you can take a large ferry constructed in a classical style that shuttles to and from Jade Flower Islet.

On Jade Flower Islet, you can  climb to the White Dagoba, a dome built of white stone with engravings of the sun, moon, and flames decorating the walls. From the top, there are panoramic views of Beijing, over the Forbidden City and of the National Center of Performing Arts, and south across Zhonghai.

Descending the White Dagoba, you’ll also come across two stone caves, which cost an additional RMB 3 each to enter, but once you get past the Monkey King statue guarding the entrance, you can descend into the rocky depths and explore the mini-maze inside each cave. Dim enough to create a mysterious atmosphere but sufficiently illuminated for you to be able to see, the cave also has little statues of emperors and warriors scattered throughout.

If the steps of the White Dagoba, cave exploring, and running around the park proves too exhausting, take a seat in the many pagodas around the lake, or have an adventure getting lost on the trails leading away from the lake. Exploring the eastern bank will bring you to a courtyard hidden in the trees, built as a residence for Qing dynasty emperors. The elaborate traditional buildings with a carp pond in the center offer a sense of how royal gardens looked. Off to the side sits another small courtyard with man-made rock sculptures and peonies.

Just north is the Nine Dragon Wall, built in 1756 and supposedly one of just three walls of its kind in China. Made of glazed bricks, the wall depicts nine dragons on each side playing in the clouds. And the western bank yields even more surprises. On weekends, you might catch a group of men and women gathered in a traditional courtyard singing Chinese folk songs.

Beihai also offers plenty of other people-watching opportunities. Calligraphers paint poems on the ground using large brushes dipped in water. Old men gather around stone tables for long games of Chinese chess. If your kids are early risers, come to Beihai in the morning and see Beijingers practicing tai chi and martial arts, as well as ribbon and fan dancing.

On those days that Beijing seems to get you down, take a trip to Beihai and relax near the water, feel a gentle breeze on your face and enjoy what was once an imperial playground

Beihai Park 北海公园
1 Wenjin Jie, Xicheng District 西城区文津街1号
Daily 6am-10pm (9.30pm last ticket)
6403 1102

At the center of the CBD lies Ritan Park, an oasis from the busy and congested streets. Though at first it might seem like just another park with quiet tree-lined paths, it also offers plenty of things to do for active kids with energy to burn. Whether you want to mini-golf, rock climb, fly a kite, or just run around, it’s easy to spend a few hours or even a full day here in the heart of Beijing.

Almost 500 years ago during the Ming dynasty, Ritan Park was originally built as a temple to the Sun God, hence the characters for its name: “sun” (日, rì) and “altar” (坛, tán). Since the 1950s, the park has been open to the public; its 20 hectares of grounds still house some remnants of the ancient architecture, like the large red gates and altars.

But the park’s main appeal lies in the natural scenery and other diversions. Lying on the southwest side of Ritan is the fishing pond and pavilion of the “Southwestern Landscapes” area, one of the park’s most scenic spots. While kids clamber up, down and around the rocks that line the pond, parents can follow via steps and footpaths.

More organized rock climbing is available just a few steps away. On the western side of Ritan Park, an outdoor rock climbing area is open every day (weather permitting), which offers a climbing wall with three routes, as well as a bouldering wall. Climbing shoes are available for rent, and options include a single climb for RMB 20 or an all-day pass for RMB 40. Even if you and your kids don’t rock climb, it’s worth a stop on a nearby bench to watch others attempt the summit.

If the climbing wall doesn’t enthrall the kids, try some of the machines in the nearby exercise park. Though not a particularly big area, the equipment – including basic elliptical and stretching apparatus – is well-maintained and child-friendly. For a more sedate form of exercise, an 18-hole mini-golf course sits just a few hundred meters north. The nearby playground features bumper cars, a carousel and a trampoline. Kids can also express their inner Picasso at the painting area, or hop on a mechanical horse to ride around the mini-racetrack.

Of course, quiet observation is another way to enjoy a day at the park, and at Ritan, there are many things to be seen: local Chinese who play their two-stringed erhu or kick around shuttlecocks, kite-flyers at the wide-open Circular Mound Altar, and grand views from the central pagoda of the entire park beyond the trees and against the CBD skyline.

Exploring the park can work up an appetite, and fortunately, there are several restaurants inside the park that cater to different cravings. For those with an appetite for German food, Schindler’s Tankstelle serves up sausages and grilled meats, and their terrace is a perfect spot for lunching outdoors on a nice day. If your taste buds incline towards Chinese food, head over to Xiao Wang Fu near the north gate, where you can feast on roast duck or sweet and sour dishes in an elegant dining room or outdoor patio. Or enjoy a simple refresher of coffee or soda at the Stone Boat Cafe, complete with views of the pond and pagodas. A convenience store located in the middle of the park makes it all that much easier to spend an entire day among the trees and quiet surroundings.

With plenty of space to run around and activities to occupy both parents and kids, Ritan Park is the perfect urban escape, and every bit as fun and relaxing as parks on the city’s outskirts.

Ritan Park
Daily 6am-8pm (summer), 6.30am-8pm (winter).6 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District (8561 6301) 朝阳区日坛北路6号

Fresh air and wide-open spaces may not be the first things that come to mind when thinking of Beijing. But just an hour outside the city center is an Italian-style organic farm that allows urban families to leave the stress of the city behind. Plenty of grass to play on, animals to pet, and even fresh fruit and vegetables to pick makes Agrilandia a great spot for a family daytrip.

Founded in 1999 in a location east of Beijing’s airport, the farm moved to its current location in Baigezhuang in 2006, and now extends across 21 acres to include features such as space for planting, a country villa restaurant and a bed and breakfast. There is also a playground, fishing pond and ample space for picnicking, and the farm not only welcomes pets but also has a “mini zoo” with deer, sheep, ducks, and peacocks.

Owner Lu Hong Wei was living and working in Italy as a translator when she fell in love with the country’s cuisine and agriculture. Back in China, she wanted to create a place that would evoke the spirit of both Italy’s farms and the countryside of Hebei province, where she grew up. “I wanted to dedicate myself to treating the land and soil the right way, and also to treating local farmers well,” says Lu. “Agrilandia has been a dream of mine for years, but it’s also a responsibility, to show how food should be grown.”

On the farm, Lu and her team of dedicated farmers grow trees using seeds imported from Italy. There are many varieties of cherries, apples, pears, plums and apricots, most of which are new to the Chinese market. Two greenhouses allow the farm to produce fresh produce all year round. One is home to many different lettuces and herbs like rosemary, basil and mint; the other houses rows of fresh strawberries. Try a sweet, fresh-off-the-vine strawberry – the local store-bought versions pale in comparison.

Families that visit the farm can have a field day with picking fruits and vegetables. For a few kuai more than you would pay at a supermarket, you can get tomatoes, bell peppers, zucchini and more, all of it lovingly cultivated on a small scale. Kids can learn hands-on what it takes to get food from the farm to the table and sample some of the most flavorful produce in the city. According to marketing manager James Wang, Agrilandia will also introduce an Adopt-a-Tree program this spring: Families that adopt a fruit tree will receive all the fruit off a given tree for the growing season.

The produce, in addition to being picked by visitors and sold to shops like Jenny Lou’s, is served at both Theme Restaurant (on the farm) and at its sister restaurant, Il Casale, in Lido. Theme Restaurant, an impressive space with high wood-beamed ceilings and a large fireplace, churns out rustic and hearty Italian fare. Pastas, sauces, and fresh cheeses are made in-house, while staples like olive oil and Parmesan are imported from Italy. Meat and fish come from trusted local suppliers.

The menu has a range of options for the entire family, from grilled chicken to pumpkin gnocchi. Salads come with an assorted bounty of freshly picked vegetables. Even when indulging in guilty pleasures like french fries and pizza, you can still rest assured the ingredients come from just outside the front door. “We focus on the quality of the food,” says Lu. “In addition to health, there is great pleasure in tasting something very fresh.” As a mother of two young children, Lu knows how important it is to cook and serve with the best ingredients. The farm, she hopes, will spread the message of healthy eating to other Beijing families.

The farm already succeeds in drawing out families from Shunyi and central Beijing, who come on the weekends for the tranquility and relaxation. From the fields to the greenhouses to the dining room, Agrilandia offers a chance to gain new perspective on the food we eat every day. The hearty pastas, vibrant salads, and homemade desserts don’t hurt either. Who knew learning could taste so good?

Agrilandia 意大利农场
Daily 9am-10pm. Baigezhuangcun, Mapozhen, Shunyi District (6940 7650, 130 0127 1094) 顺义区马坡镇白各庄村