This town in central Yunnan combines natural beauty with exotic local flavor. Dali has a striking physical location and an interesting history as a former capital. The Bai people have inhabited the area for thousands of years, and their cultural influence is immediately evident in the food and romantic legends of the region.
If your family is feeling adventurous, renting bikes is a great way to explore the area and avoid the tour buses. Since the town is small, it’s no hard task to navigate its thin, cobblestone roads and ancient walls. Its small-town charm has attracted a fair-sized foreign community, which means that decent Western cuisine such as pizza, coffee and pancakes can easily be found. History aficionados will find the Dali museum and its three main pagodas particularly interesting, while hikers can explore Mt. Cangshan – an exquisite mountain famous for strange cloud formations. The nearby Erhai Lake, one of the seven largest lakes in China, is surrounded by tiny villages.

Minorities Rule: Visit the Bai and Yi villages, where families can walk through rice fields, lunch on boats, relax in a local courtyard, browse local markets or enjoy a ride on a horse-drawn carriage.

What to Buy: Minority clothing is a specialty, along with marble, jewelry and tablecloths – all at great prices. Try some traditional Bai snacks and treats on Foreigner Street.

Where to Stay: Jim’s Tibetan Hotel in the old town is a good choice for families. It’s decorated in the Tibetan style and has great Western breakfasts (0872 267 7824, www.jims-tibetan-hotel.com). For a guided tour, try China Minority Travel (www.china-travel.nl).

Where to Snack: Findaaing a small cafe isn’t difficult, but Sweet Tooth on Boai Lu is a favorite among the local expats. One bite of a chocolate chip cookie from this quaint shop will make you forget you’re in China. The cafe also supports the local deaf community.

Travel Tips: Having a local guide is priceless because you get the chance to see how people really live – looking inside their houses, viewing schools and local places that you would never find by yourself.

Getting there: Four-hour flight from Beijing to Kunming, then catch a flight or a 3-hour bus ride to Dali.

Xi’an

As the ancient capital of 13 Chinese dynasties, Xi’an is a city rich with history – and with numerous tourist attractions, it’s easy to navigate with a family. The thousands-strong Terracotta Army is a sight sure to enthrall adults and children alike (the largest pit holds around 6,000 warriors and horses). The city also boasts early imperial tombs, a thriving Muslim Quarter and a nearby Neolithic village, in addition to the majestic cliffs of Huashan Mountain.

Where to Stay: The four-star Bell Tower Hotel (29 8760 0000, www.belltowerhtl.com) is highly recommended. Request a room that overlooks the Bell Tower – the exact geographical center of Xi’an. Markets, shops, the fascinating Muslim quarter and the ancient city walls are all within walking distance.

What to Eat: Loud and bustling Huimin Jie in the Muslim quarter behind the Drum Tower is packed with restaurants and stalls serving local specialties like lamb skewers. There are also child-friendly Western options, such as the ubiquitous McDonald’s, KFC and Pizza Hut.

Off the Wall: Families can take part in a bike tour around the City Wall (29 8208 2218, www.xa-cq.com). The ride is nice and flat and takes about an hour, though it can get hot and dusty.

Best Splurge: If traveling by train, deluxe-class sleepers are great. The upgraded seats feature a spotless Western-style toilet and washbasin ensuite, a comfy easy chair and an adjustable climate and sound system. The buffet car can get smoky, however, so families should stock up on provisions before boarding the train.

Getting There: One hour and 40 minute flight from Beijing.

Chishui

Almost a thousand years ago, Chishui was a strategic port city involved in the lucrative salt trade. Although located in Guizhou, this river town is closer to Sichuan province historically, culturally, geographically and economically. Get your bearings with a stroll around the city, being sure to take in the riverside along Hebin Lu. You can head straight to Sichuan by crossing the river or take the kids to enjoy the rare exhilaration of being in two provinces at the same time, with a foot on either side at the middle of the bridge. 
The Communists’ legendary Long March also involved a notable adventure around this river. In an attempt to shake off the pursuing Guomindang, the Communists crossed and re-crossed the Chishui river a total of four times as they battled hither and thither. History buffs can re-trace Mao’s footsteps, commemorated at each of the four fording spots, scattered around the region.

Where to Stay: The nicest option in Chishui city is Zhongyue Hotel (中悦大酒店), a clean and comfortable four-star stalwart (0852 282 3888/5999). Mid-range options are abundant, though quality varies. For a rural experience, check out Chishui Electric Power Hotel (赤水电力宾馆), situated near some of the region’s most famous scenic areas and within walking distance of Yanziyan National Park and Shizhangdong Waterfalls. It features villa-style lodgings and a riverside terrace (0852 299 5555).

What to Eat: Chishui restaurants specialize in many delicious bamboo dishes, including fresh bamboo shoots stir-fried with bacon (zhusun chao la rou), stewed dried bamboo (tongtong zhu), and a "Panda Feast" (xiongmao yan) – a bamboo-themed banquet perfect for larger parties.

Parks Galore: Chishui has lush forests due to abundant rainfalls and has a rich array of parks. The noble sala tree (桫椤), which dates back to the time of the dinosaurs, is particularly numerous in the Shaluo National Preservation Area (赤水桫椤国家级自然保护区. RMB 25). Nearby is Chishui’s Bamboo Ocean (竹海, RMB 25), a protected forest where mighty stalks of nanzhu (楠竹), one of the world’s thickest and tallest bamboo species, nod and sway in the breeze as far as the eye can see in every direction. (The parks mentioned above are free for children under 1.3 meters tall and half-price for students with valid ID. Aside from Shizhangdong, which is open only in the morning, all parks are open from dawn to dusk.)

Site to Remember: Wuzhufeng (五柱峰, RMB 80) deserves a whole day of exploration. The curious red rocks (danxia 丹霞) here are officially recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The highlight of this sublime assortment of geological formations may be an enormous, breathtaking arc of red rock wall (佛光岩丹霞绝壁) – a natural amphitheater lightly tickled by a waterfall.
Getting There: Three-hour flight from Beijing to Luzhou, then a 2-hour drive to Chishui.

Don’t forget to check out Part 1 of this post.

The trek to Inner Mongolia may lead some travelers to question whether or not they are still in China. The flowing grasslands and desert expanses of this exotic land are a far cry from Beijing, and the capital city Hohhot offers exposure to mystic traditions and delicious cuisine. While organized tours are available in and around Hohhot, families with older children may want to visit more remote towns and villages. Spend a night in a traditional nomadic yurt and visit the mausoleum of Genghis Khan. Culture-seekers can soak up traditional Mongolian singing and dancing, while adventurers can try horse and camel riding. Due to the normally harsh climate in this part of the country, visiting between June and September is recommended.

The Route: Experience Mongolia’s magnificent landscape from a four-wheel drive (4WD) vehicle. Drive north via Fengning, then past Duolun, where only 4WD vehicles can venture. The truly adventurous can continue north through the southern reaches of the Gobi desert. A regular car is also fine, providing you don’t plan to go off the beaten track or into the desert. Brush up on your vehicle knowledge, and be sure to carry spare parts as well as a manual.

Camping Out: A pop-up tent that fits snugly on your 4WD roof is ideal, though a regular camping tent is also fine. Camping out may not suit those accustomed to comfort, but it does offer the breathtaking experience of sleeping under the stars. Remember: Stock up on food, water and toilet paper, good-quality sleeping bags, torches and a lamp. Local restaurants serve very basic fare, which includes mutton jiaozi and yak meat in strong and fibrous stews.

Sight to Remember: The serenity of the landscape – with nothing but the breeze in your hair, the hills on your horizon and a happy kid running across the Mongolian plains, chasing meandering cattle as he goes.

Getting There: One-hour flight from Beijing.

Tibet
 At 3,600 meters above sea level, nestled in the Himalayan Mountains, Lhasa is one of the highest cities in the world. Its name means "place of the gods" and its remote snowcapped mountains make it a pristine, peaceful destination indeed. Spiritual sites of interest include the sacred Potala Palace, Johkang – the holiest place in Tibet – and Norbulingka. Home of the Dalai Lamas, Potala Palace lies in the center of Kyichu Valley, which divides Lhasa’s new and old towns. Norbulingka, or Jewel Park, is a stunning palace that was once the summer home to the 7th and 8th Dalai Lama. Its gardens are ideal for outdoor picnics and it plays host to various theater events and festivals. In August, people camp out for days in Norbulingka to celebrate Sho Dun, or the Yoghurt Festival. During the festival, tourists can expect to see traditional dancing and bonfires. While this trip is not recommended for young children, Tibet is a great country to explore for elementary and high school kids. A sense of adventure is a must.

Where to Stay: The Sheraton Hotel has friendly and helpful English-speaking staff. While there is no playground or pool, there is a nice outdoor patio. The central location is within walking distance of the old Tibetan part of town. Connecting rooms are a great option for families and the hotel has special discounts on meals for children.

Kid-Friendly Site: Children will love the zoo at Norbulingka. It originally housed animals that were given to the Dalai Lama and has recently adopted a snow leopard. Head to the Ganden Monastery, where lucky guests can befriend locals and get a taste of yak butter tea.

Travel Tips: Having a bilingual guide is helpful and will enrich your trip. If you take the train, beware of mediocre food and leaking toilets.

Getting there: 24-hour train ride from Xining or a five-hour flight from Beijing via Chengdu.

Chengdu

No stay in China is complete without a glimpse at the country’s most treasured animal, the giant panda, and Chengdu is just the place to do it. These magnificent creatures are becoming increasingly rare, so an opportunity to hold a baby panda would be an experience that the little ones will never forget.
Though pandas may be Chengdu’s biggest draw, the city itself has a lot to offer. This hub of Sichuan is much easier on the eyes than most of China’s more populous cities and is filled with charming side streets and restaurants serving delicious local cuisine. Numerous temple parks will impress with their green spaces, bamboo forests and Taoist pavilions.

Panda Experience: Visit the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding (www.panda.org.cn). If you want assured panda interaction, travel to the Wolong Panda Research Station (www.pandaclub.cn), located 138km from Chengdu, but expect to pay a bit more.

Where to Hike: Try the hike up Qingcheng Mountain, which passes Taoist temples and wonderful views (the trek features many steps, so younger children may need to be carried). Stop at the restaurant for lunch, then take a ferry across the lake located a third of the way up the mountain (www.qcs.cn).

What to Eat: As the capital of Sichuan province, Chengdu is an ideal place to sample some of the country’s best hot pot (dishes can be adjusted for spiciness at most restaurants).

Getting There: Two hour and 40 minute flight from Beijing.

Don’t forget to check out Part 2 of this post.

Hotels
The nicest option in Chishui city is Zhongyue Hotel (中悦大酒店, 南正街22号, +852 282 3888/282 5999), a clean and comfortable four-star stalwart. Rooms are spacious if not stylish, and equipped with business desks and broadband; the suites are more finely decorated. Singles 358/RMB 388, doubles RMB 398/458. Suites RMB 588-2,288. Mid-range options are abundant, though quality varies: Try the plain but clean Chishui Yuan (http://csy88.com), where luxury doubles are discounted to RMB 195 from RMB 368. An inexpensive option is the Kaiyue Hotel (赤水凯悦宾馆, 赤水市西内环路工商局大楼, +852 288 9888) with cute, clean rooms for only RMB 80-250.

For a rural experience, the Chishui Electric Power Hotel (赤水电力宾馆) is situated near some of the region’s most famous scenic areas, about 30km from town and within walking distance of Swallow’s Rock National Park and Shizhangdong waterfalls. The simple villa-style apartments along the river features comfortable, blue-carpeted rooms, with sitting toilets, enclosed showers and small porches. Its isolation could be a drawback, especially for those relying on public buses, although this should be no problem for those who hire a car. The complex also has a spa, restaurant and a terrace by the river. RMB 488 for a suite; RMB 388 for a standard double, discounted to RMB 180 when we visited (+852 299 5555).

ITINERARY
Thursday
The China Eastern flight to Luzhou arrives at 10pm, so bunk down and rest up for a full day the next morning.

Friday
From the Luzhou Xiaoshi bus station (泸州小市汽车站, +852 299 4036), air-conditioned buses leave for Chishui every 15 minutes from 6am to 4pm, costing RMB 15 and covering the 78km in about two hours. The bus station is just off Yingbin Dadao. The snack counter inside the Chishui bus station sells maps of the city and the region.

After settling in, start by getting your bearings with a stroll around the city, being sure to take in the riverside along Hebin Lu. Since almost a thousand years ago, when Chishui was a strategic port city involved in the lucrative salt trade, the town has benefited from its eponymous river, which separates it from Sichuan province. Although located in Guizhou, historically, culturally, geographically and economically, this river town is closer to Sichuan province – vast expanses of mountains sequester Chishui from the rest of Guizhou. Walk straight to Sichuan by crossing the river or take the kids to enjoy the rare exhilaration of being in two provinces at the same time, with a foot on either side at the middle of the bridge.

The Communists’ legendary Long March also had a notable adventure crossing the river. In an attempt to shake off the pursuing Guomindang, they crossed and re-crossed the Chishui river a total of four times as they battled hither and thither. Those interested can retrace Mao’s footsteps, commemorated at each of the four fording spots, scattered around the region.

Saturday
Feeling energetic? Head to nearby Tiantai Mountain (天台山), 7km away from the city, for some hiking. It takes five hours to reach the peak, but panoramic views of the river and the city are possible from even just a short ways up (on a clear day).

Sunday-Monday
Chishui’s rich array of parks will deliver more than enough romping exploration for you and your brood. Packing a small picnic of portable, energizing snacks for the day’s hiking will always pay off. The parks mentioned below are free for children under 1.3 meters tall and half-price for students with valid ID. Aside from Shizhangdong, which is open only in the morning, all of these parks are open from dawn to dusk.

Among the area’s most unique inhabitants, the noble sala tree (Cyathea spinulosa 桫椤) has shared the earth with the dinosaurs. This ancient tree fern – the only one of its kind surviving today – are particularly numerous in the Shaluo National Preservation Area (赤水桫椤国家级自然保护区, RMB 25). With their mud-spire trunks – reminiscent of palm trees – and distinctive height (ranging between 3-8 meters tall), these ferns thrive along several kilometers of fine paths that weave their way across burbling creeks. Prompt your little ones to imagine dinosaurs roaming these lush streams, mountains and bamboo forests, among mighty ferns just like the ones they see today.

Nearby is Chishui’s “Bamboo Ocean” (竹海, RMB 25), a protected forest where mighty stalks of Nanzhu (楠竹), one of the world’s thickest and tallest bamboo species, nod and sway in the breeze as far as the eye can see. Walking along the serene forest’s shaded trails, the little ragamuffins are sure to achieve precocious Zen enlightenment. Either that or they’ll remember that kung fu showdowns are statistically prone to occur in such groves of bowing ‘boo.

Chishui restaurants specialize in many delicious bamboo dishes, including fresh bamboo shoots stir-fried with bacon (zhusun chao larou), stewed dried bamboo (tongtong zhu 筒筒竹), and a “Panda Feast” (xiongmao yan 熊猫宴) – a bamboo-themed banquet perfect for larger parties.

The Bamboo Ocean and the Tree Fern Shaluo National Preservation Area are located next to each other, 40km west of town.

Tuesday-Wednesday
Another full day of creek and waterfall seeking takes the family 15km south of town to Si Dong Gou (四洞沟, “Four Caves Creek”; RMB 30) Park, and nearby Hongshi Yegu (红石野谷, “Red Rock Wild Valley”; RMB 30). Si Dong Gou is designed as a pleasant riverside stroll past four waterfalls. An electric golf cart car (RMB 20) is available for those who are tired or prefer to bypass the trails and fast forward to the waterfalls. More time for lunch!

Red Rock Wild Valley aspires to be a smorgasbord of amusement options, but the natural charms are the real reason to visit. The trail climbs past idyllic little waterfalls and a grove of pear trees. The highlight is a mountain hollow whose glorious red rock walls are worn into patterned grooves. Nestling in its shade is a cluster of peculiarly shaped red rocks, some of which have been awarded overly literal names, such as “Golden Turtle.” The park’s arrays of gentle waterfalls, short rafting course, mountain slide, and dinosaur garden are sure to get a rise out of your young rapscallions.

Wuzhufeng (五柱峰, RMB 80) is definitely not to be missed and deserves a whole day. The curious red rocks (danxia 丹霞) here are the centerpiece of the township’s UNESCO bid. Are these geological formations world heritage-worthy? Put on your UNESCO hat and decide for yourself. An enormous, breathtaking arc of red rock (佛光岩丹霞绝壁), lightly
tickled by a waterfall, highlights a sublime assortment of mineral formations. These include the “Flying Saucer” (太空船), the “Golden Monkey” (五柱压金猴) and the park’s namesake “Five Pillar Peak,” recalling a legendary five-pillared mountain that once imprisoned the Monkey King. The entrance road (2.5km) is 7km further south from the turnoff for the Bamboo Sea and the Shaluo National Preservation Area.

Thursday-Friday
For a change of pace, move the family into the Chishui Electric Power Hotel. Despite its mechanical name, this hotel is actually not lacking in rural charm, with villa-style lodgings and a riverside terrace. It’s also in perfect range of the Shizhangdong waterfalls, Chishui’s premier scenic area (十丈洞; RMB 40, electric car RMB 20). Curiously, however, its star attraction, the area’s largest waterfall, is now, as a result of an upstream hydroelectric dam, completely dependent on the dam for water. During the low season, the waterfall is only “on” in the morning (9-11am), but during the summer and the national holidays in October, the waterfall works until 4pm, with a two-hour break for lunch (11am-1pm). Could the hydroelectric dam have anything to do with Chishui Electric Power Hotel’s prime location? A mystery.

Nearby “Swallow’s Rock” National Park (燕子岩, RMB 25), boasts a fine shaded hike along a cheerfully burbling stream, through forests and eventually leading to an enormous red rock face. The route winds past successions of small cascades and several fine specimens of the region’s famous sala fern, ascending to the park’s namesake: a rosy red cliff face opposite a 50-meter waterfall, populated by flitting swallow swifts.

Saturday
Head back to Luzhou to catch your flight back to Beijing.

Flight
Guilin, less than three hours by plane from Beijing, is the portal to Guangxi’s many pleasures.

Climate
Check the weather, but try to stay optimistic about rain. The lush green fields and limestone karsts of this unique landscape are nurtured by consistent rainfall. Remember, mists and a delicate drizzle are poetic and evocative. Such humidity means that the comparative chill of winter (averaging 8-10 degrees Celsius) feels colder, and the summer heat (averages 25-28 degrees Celsius) swelters. Thus, late spring and autumn are the best times to visit.

Hotels
Guilin is neither shy nor inexperienced when it comes to receiving guests, and the city’s hotels hang up enough stars for a constellation or two.

In Yangshuo, try centrally located Nana (RMB 220-450), with canal views and soak-worthy bathtubs. Another option is Lisa’s Mountain View Hotel (www.lisachina.com), where the Garden Mountain View Suite (RMB 280) comes with a private rooftop garden and views of the surrounding karst hills.

Located between Guilin and Yangshuo, Fool’s Paradise, the world’s largest modern sculpture park, is more than amply prepared to help you and your family bed down in style, featuring a Relais & Chateaux boutique hotel that’s sure to satisfy the demands of even the most finicky little empress.

The historic town of Huangyao may not stretch to international hotel standards, but Jinlan Hotel (金兰居, +774 672 2218; RMB 40-50) will match any criterion for cleanliness. The Gus, an adorable couple that runs the place, share tales of growing up in the ancient village, but if your clan must have a sitting toilet, you’ll have to opt for a less personal experience. Ask for the triples at Huangyao Dajiudian (黄姚大酒店, +774 672 2819; RMB 70), or the two doubles at Guilong Binguan (桂龙宾馆, +774 672 2816; fan rooms RMB 40, A/C rooms RMB 60).

Friday
After settling into Guilin, head to Elephant Hill Park (象山公园, +773 280 3000; RMB 33) in the afternoon for a post-aviation romp. The limestone behemoth in a pachydermic shape is a symbol of the city and its scenic peaks have inspired poets for millennia. Take advantage of the flavors wafting through the air by sampling local Zhuang cuisine such as gooey sticky-rice treats and snails.

Saturday
To avoid the weekend hordes swarming all over Guilin, take a few slow steps back in time. Located four hours south of Guilin by bus (departs 1.10pm), Huangyao Old Town (黄姚古镇; RMB 68, free for children under 1.2 meters tall) is a lovingly preserved Ming dynasty town set amidst western Guangxi’s karst mountains.

This time capsule of a town is sure to infatuate fans of Beijing hutongs, while its rural setting ensures fresh air and healthy country cooking. For centuries, Huangyao enjoyed a prosperous existence as a walled village founded by Cantonese merchants, thanks to its prime location on the Yao River and the success of its local products. In particular, its fermented bean sauce earned renown from as far away as the imperial palace.

Although the town walls are now gone, the hamlet is better conserved, both physically and socially, than hyper-commercial hubs like Yunnan’s Lijiang or Shanxi’s Pingyao. Huangyao’s simplicity and serenity add up to a charming antidote for the frayed nerves of city dwellers. A picture-perfect setting for any story of forgotten times, Huangyao has even earned a role in present-day re-imagining of the past; several Hong Kong miniseries and Hollywood’s The Painted Veil were filmed here.

Sunday-Monday
Huangyao’s 3.6 kilometers of flagstone-paved streets and alleys are redolent with cultural and historical significance. The town is dotted with 800-year-old banyan trees, stone bridges arching over meandering rivers, little pavilions, old gate towers and shapely rocks. Take a tour with a local guide (RMB 30) to understand the town’s layout and history before spending a couple of days exploring, relaxing and wandering on your own.

Kids of all ages will get a kick out of the stepping stone bridge, the Celestial Well (仙人古井), the peaks towering over the village, and delicious peanut waffle cookies invented in the Qing dynasty. There are car-free streets and dramatically shaped rocks for climbing, and even natural “slides” worn into the rock by generations of playing village kids. Nature lovers will enjoy the bucolic setting of green vegetation and waddling chicks. The “agricultural interest garden” in the rear of town contains exhibits on traditional farming techniques and the making of local foods like tofu and fermented bean sauce. The many grandmothers and grandfathers strolling the streets and hanging out on doorsteps adore children and usually have small ones of their own in tow.

Huangyao is a country town, and everything you’ll eat here is fresh and seasonal. From garden-fresh vegetables to bamboo shoots harvested in the mountains, there’s a good chance that what you’ll eat is pesticide-free. Free-range chicken is a specialty, as is doufu niang (豆腐酿), or stuffed tofu cooked in a delicate broth – and anything cooked with bean sauce. Try Gujia Chufang (古家厨房), on Anle Jie, the main street of the old town, for a charming dining room, or Hexing Yizhan (和兴驿站, +774 672 2011, inside the Sanxing Lou Gate) for homey favorites from a real country family.

Tuesday
Catch the 8.10am bus for a two-hour ride north to Yangshuo, the perfect place for your family to get active in karst country. With expanses of lush fields punctuated by the region’s distinctive craggy hills stretching out in every direction, the area is ideal for exploration by foot, boat, stroller, or bicycle (built for two).

Wednesday
Starting an hour’s bus ride (RMB 9) north of Yangshuo, the cruise down what is widely regarded as the Li River’s most scenic stretch, from Yangdi to Xinping (2-3hrs, RMB 120 for a small, stroller-friendly bamboo raft), is a great way to take in the geological splendor. For those with time to spare and energy to burn, the route also makes a great walk (18km, about five hours). Buses (RMB 9 for 1hr) run between Yangshuo and Yangdi regularly, as well as back to Yangshuo (RMB 7 for 30min) from the cruise’s terminus, the ancient, well-kept town of Xinping, lovely for a stroll.

By bicycle (built for two with baby basket, RMB 20/day), the two-hour circuit of the nearby Wulong River is nothing short of stunning.

Thursday
The Yangshuo area abounds with opportunities for outdoor adventure in the summer. Nana’s helps organize minibus trips to attractions such as the Silver Caves (RMB 60 per person), sure to wow your lil’ ones. Older kids may enjoy rock climbing, river drifting, canoeing, and camping, all of which is organized by local groups such as Chinaclimb (www.chinaclimb.com).

In the evening, catch “Liu San Jie,” the lightshow-play-”spectacular” (originally directed and conceived by Zhang Yimou) that runs every night and tells the story of a young village woman. The famous “West Street” also has bars and cafes aplenty for a drink or two if parents have a free night.

Friday-Saturday
If Yangshuo’s evocative peaks and boundless activities don’t engage your little rapscallion’s imagination, Fool’s Paradise will. A 50-hectare architecture park between Guilin and Yangshuo, this wonderland-come-to-life is a rare example of what can happen when money and resources are “foolishly” devoted to art and imagination. With expanses of artwork roaming against an otherworldly backdrop of warped karsts, including a forest of caricatures by Taiwanese cartoonist Jimmy, Fool’s Paradise (愚自乐园) may make happy fools out of you and your brood (www.guilinhoma.com; RMB 60, children RMB 30). Buses (RMB 5) from Guilin bus station or Yangshuo to Fool’s Paradise run every 20 minutes from 6.40am to 6.40pm and let you off at the main gate. A 25-minute taxi from either Guilin or Yangshuo to Fool’s Paradise is around RMB 90.

Saturday-Sunday
Appetite and adventure thrills sated, fly back to Guilin. Catch a flight back to Beijing. Shelley Jiang and Gabriel Monroe