I am Australian of mixed British stock, but I came to Beijing after living in France for seven years. Once I got over the initial shock of how different my new home felt, I was surprised to identify many similarities between these two cultures. France and China both have proud language traditions, a long history of cultivating the arts, and *ahem* overly-hierarchical and opaque bureaucratic systems. But best of all, they both have very old and interesting culinary traditions. Here are a couple of dishes that connect these two diverse nations.

Crêpes and Galettes vs Jianbing 煎饼 jiānbǐng 

A classic streetside jianbing (left) and folded savory galette

The first time I saw a jianbing being made street-side in Beijing, I was stunned. Everything from the large round hot plate to the thin wooden tool they use to spread the batter, to the hand gestures as the vendor spooned out the batter and expert flicking movements as she flipped the snack, were exactly the same as I’d seen a million times in a crêpe stand in France. Things only started to get a bit strange when cumin, cilantro, hoisin sauce, and a crispy wafer were folded in. 

Crêpe is kind of a catch-all term for thin pancakes, but in France, savory crêpes are called galettes and are often served as a main meal. Originating from the Brittany coastal region, they can contain a variety of ingredients, such as eggs, spinach, ham, cheese (of course), even pungent andouillette (tripe) sausage for the brave. But unlike jianbing, they are usually served on a plate, and only cooked on one side, with the nice crispy edges folded up to make a neat square. Crêpes, on the other hand, are always sweet. My favorite filling is honey and lemon juice, but Nutella and banana, jam, and even Grand Marnier liqueur are other popular fillings. Sweet crêpes are usually folded up and served on the go, just like a jianbing.

Stinky Cheese vs Stinky Tofu 臭豆腐 chòu dòufu

Delicious stinky Roquefort cheese (left) and squares of chòu dòufu

There are more than 400 different varieties of cheese in France, and the locals are obsessed with the stuff. Some of the more famous stinky varieties include the Pont l’Évêque, which is also one of France’s oldest cheeses having been made in the Normandy region since the 12th century. Pungent blue Roquefort is even older, and easily recognizable for its soft creamy body and blue mold spots, then there is Vieux Lille which is often nicknamed “old stinker” and is renowned for being the strongest smelling of the lot. 

While you’re hard-pressed to find much cheese in China outside of Yunnan and Mongolia, fermented chòu dòufu (lit. stinky tofu) can knock your socks off, and stink out an entire restaurant. However, it generally has a pretty mild flavor so if you can get past the smell, you’re in for a treat. The recently opened Maizidian branch of local Slow Boat Brewery recognized the cross-cultural potential for chou dofu with their new ‘Love the Chou’ burger which combines a chou dofu patty with smelly blue cheese sauce.

Ratatouille vs Chaos Stew 乱炖 Luàn dùn

Late harvest ratatouille (left) and hearty chaos stew

The French may have invented the concept of haute cuisine, but most of the food eaten on a day-to-day basis has much more humble origins. Ratatouille stew was a staple dish in the Provence region of France long before the Disney rat came along, and is a typical late-summer harvest dish, containing tomatoes, zucchini, and bell peppers. 

Dongbei, the Northeast region of China, is known for its no-nonsense fare, and while luàn dùn, amusingly named “chaos stew” generally contains at least one kind of meat, it is very similar to ratatouille in that vegetables are the main focus, and they are both hearty, dense filling meals. Vegetable-wise, chaos stew usually contains potatoes, broad beans, and pungent fermented soybean sauce. Both are dump-and-stew kinds of dishes, great for clearing out the fridge, and while Ratatouille goes well with roasted chicken or a fatty fish, chaos stew is likely to be served with wide flour noodles.

Bigorneaux vs Tianluo 田螺 tiánluó

From the French coast (left) to Canton, sea snails are a hit

Garlicky escargot might be the most famous kind of snail eaten in France, but they are not the only one. In coastal regions bigorneaux, known as periwinkle in English are a popular seaside treat, and are usually boiled in a simple broth of water and lots of pepper. 

Clearly garlic is a good idea because it also features heavily in the Cantonese preparation of these marine gastropods. There are actually a million different ways of calling this dish and snail, but in the south they are usually wok-fried with ginger, garlic, and black bean sauce, rice-wine and soy sauce, and served with steamed rice.

Foie Gras vs Salted Duck Liver 盐水鸭肝 Yánshuǐ yā gān

Classic duck foie gras (left) and Chinese salted duck liver with star anise

Along with horsemeat, foie gras, lit. ‘fatty liver’ has got to be one of the most controversial food products available in France. Made from the liver of either a goose or duck which has been force-fed in order to increase the size and fattiness of their liver, it is considered a delicacy and often served with small pieces of toast on special occasions, such as New Year’s Eve or Christmas. It may also be prepared into mousse, parfait, or pâté. Due to the way the birds are force-fed, foie gras is banned in certain countries and regions around the world, but eating bird liver itself is not exclusive to France. In China, yánshuǐ yā gān, lit. salted duck liver is a delicacy that is often served at duck restaurants. After soaking in fresh water to remove the blood, the liver is boiled in a broth with spices like star anise, peppercorn, ginger, cloves then soaked for 6-10 hours to achieve the distinctive salty taste.

KEEP READING: “That’s Not Chasiu! It’s Nyama Choma!” When Kenyan and Chinese Food Unite

Images: Wikimedia Commons (1, 2, 3), Flickr (1, 2), Omnivore’s Cookbook, Christophe Certain, The Woks of Life, Eymet Village, Xiachufang,   

As a Kikuyu in Kenya, one grows very tired of the old but not altogether untrue joke that my people don’t have much in the way of culinary variety. The Kikuyu, one of the biggest tribes in Kenya, are known for a maize and bean gruel known as githeri which have become one of Kenya’s main staples because it’s just that easy to make. But as a city kid, I have the advantage of claiming, not only my own people’s starch-heavy cuisine but the plethora of dishes imported to the city in which I was born and raised – Nairobi. Some of these dishes hold a special place in my heart, and I have missed them in the years I have been away from home. But thankfully, I have found wonderful alternatives in Beijing that, in many ways, offer me a taste of home. So here we go!

Mandazi vs Youtiao 油条 Yóutiáo

If you’ve lived in Beijing long enough and hang out around enough hutongs, you might have come across this delicacy which is basically strips of dough deep-fried ’till they are crispy. In Kenya, mandazi is a favorite breakfast snack for kids and adults alike, generally cut into triangles and fried to a crispy brown. There is a harder version of the same called ngumu – in Swahili literally translates as ‘hard’, as the pieces of thick dough are fried until the exterior forms a dark brown crust and the inside remains soft and fluffy! This is also one of those super easy recipes since all you need to make Mandazi is water, flour, a little salt to taste, and enough oil in which to deep fry the strips!

Matumbo vs Pig’s Organ Soup 猪杂汤 Zhū zá tāng

As a rule, when an animal is slaughtered in Kenya, very little is left uneaten. That also goes for the offal, generally turned into sausage only comparable to the Scottish delicacy haggis, but also turned into a soup eaten with a starch accompaniment like rice or chapatti.  Matumbo in Swahili literally translates to ‘intestines’, where the tripe, small and large intestines are diced, boiled, and then fried in numerous variations into a soup. Even though the Chinese equivalent, pig’s organ soup (猪杂汤 zhū zá tāng), utilizes pig offal, matumbo in Kenya is predominantly made of cow, goat, and sheep offal. Now, ‘cool’ city kids might never admit to having this dish as offal meats have fallen out of favor in the west, but it still a simple and delicious culinary delight!

Pilau vs Yangzhou Fried Rice 扬州炒饭 Yángzhōu chǎofàn

Pilau rice is a favorite of most Kenyans, served at weddings, and at special functions. It is an elaborately made rice dish that takes a certain patience and expertise that disqualifies it from the slap-up dinner menu. Making its way to Kenya via its Indian and middle Eastern settles about two to four hundred years ago, this dish is made with a host of spices fried in with onions and tomatoes oftentimes, and chunks of tender beef which are cooked separately before being added to the pilau mixture. It is slightly different from the Yangzhou fried rice variety, which comes with more inclusions such as eggs, prawns, and vegetables.

Samosa vs Fried Dumplings 炸饺子 Zhà jiǎozi

To a large extent, many modern dishes we consider Kenyan are actually Indian dishes. But after many centuries, different Kenyan groups and regions have made them their own. Samosa is a lovely example of an Indian dish, now associated with the Swahili coast and the Muslim population of Kenya. Samosas can either be made vegetarian, complete with potato or green gram and carrot stuffing, or with minced beef or chicken and onion. Thin strips of dough are rolled out and quartered, a triangular shell is formed, the stuffing added, and the triangular pockets of dough and stuffing are fried until crisp. They can also be quite spicy and not unlike a China favorite, the fried dumpling.

Nyama Choma vs Barbecue Pork 叉烧 Chāshāo

Ask any Kenyan what you should eat first when you visit Kenya and the unanimous answer is nyama choma, which in Swahili literally means roasted meat. It is a simple recipe, which basically sees pieces of beef, mutton, chicken, chevon, and on rarer occasions, pork and fish, being roasted over an open charcoal fire until perfectly cooked and tender. The nyama choma is generally chopped up on a wooden block and served with salt to taste, kachumbari – a mix of tomato, onion, parsley, and chili, steamed or fried greens such as kale or spinach, and a starch such as ugali – a solid type of porridge made from maize flour and water.  This is slightly different from the sticky pork variety native to Guangdong, coated with honey and five-spice before being slow-roasted and served in thin, boneless strips.

KEEP READING: “That’s Not Bing! It’s Roti!”: When Indian and Chinese Food Unite

Photos: pixist.com,  Wikimedia commons,  piqsels, pexels, pxhere, flickr