After exploring Mandalay, we headed for Bagan. This ancient city is sometimes described as Myanmar’s Angkor Wat, and was the capital of a great kingdom that rivaled the Khmer Empire to the east. It’s smaller than the Angkor Wat complex, but less commercialized, and is a must-see for anyone visiting Myanmar. But first, we had to get there.

Myanmar developed mostly along river valleys with mountains in between. Transport infrastructure is still relatively undeveloped, with few railway lines and most roads little more than dirt tracks. So we opted for a boat trip down the Irrawaddy River. The journey takes eight hours but is substantially cheaper than flying and more comfortable than going by road.

We bought tickets immediately on arrival at the airport and were relieved to find later that the office there was genuinely offering the best price: USD 45 (and half-price for our 10-year-old). This includes breakfast (it’s an early start), a reasonable lunch and a piece of cake and fruit in the afternoon. Tea and coffee are served free all day, and soft drinks and beer can be purchased.

Disembarking at Yandabo

Our boys were a little bored, so books and perhaps an iPad or other entertainment is recommended. However, my wife and I enjoyed dozing on our bamboo chairs in the cool river breeze. Shortly after lunch, there’s a stop at Yandabo. This otherwise undistinguished village specializes in making cooking pots, and although there are a few souvenir stalls, the locals were happy to invite us into their workshops, without pressure to buy anything.

The villagers of Yandabo invited us in to their workshop

On arrival at Bagan, taxis are waiting, and charge an exorbitant and non-negotiable fixed price to take you anywhere. And the first stop is around the corner, to a checkpoint where you are required to pay a fee in cash just to enter Bagan. At the time this felt like, as my 14-year-old put it, a “shakedown”. However since the temples and stupas are dotted all around the town, there would be no practical way of charging admission to them, and the money is used for the upkeep of the monuments. So just make sure you bring enough money with you.

Hiring e-bikes in Bagan

The best way to get around Bagan is by e-bike. This would not be an option for families with younger children, and the alternative is to hire a taxi or tuktuk for the day. However, the bikes cost a very reasonable USD 3.50 per day and gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace. Our 10-year-old rode on the back of my bike, while our 14-year-old, an experienced cyclist, was delighted to have his own. You have to ask for helmets, which are not routinely offered (or used). The roads are mostly in good condition, although on the way to Dhammayangyi we hit a patch of deep, soft sand and I lost control of my bike. We were traveling slowly enough that I was able to stop safely, but caution is advised on the back roads.

Ananda is possibly Bagan’s most beautiful shrine

After four years in Asia, my sons’ tolerance for temples is worn thin, so we negotiated an itinerary based on seeing four key sites, with the option of stopping at anywhere along the way that looked interesting. Ananda is the most beautiful of the temples; Dhammayangyi the biggest. Shwesandaw was described online as a temple which visitors could climb, but when we visited it was closed off… I’m not aware that any of the monuments can still be climbed, and I don’t think it’s a sustainable future for 700-year-old structures.

Dhammayangyi is the largest of Bagan’s ancient temples

Shwezigon, the last stop on our tour, was the busiest and most active temple, but also perhaps the most disappointing. Apart from the shining gold stupa, stunning against Myanmar’s deep blue sky, it was grubby and crowded. However it was interesting to see shrines to the Nats, the Bamar people’s traditional guardian spirits.

The golden stupa at Shwezigon was the model for Yangon’s famous Shwedagon

In Myanmar, Buddhism is practiced alongside the worship of protector spirits called Nats

We were disappointed also by the Royal Palace, which we paid extra to see, but which turned out to be a modern reconstruction on the site of an ancient ruin. Overall however Bagan was a fabulous experience, rich in extraordinary buildings, and with plenty of restaurants and bars to serve a tourist trade which will surely increase every year. Living in China offers an opportunity to see this extraordinary place before it becomes as crowded as Angkor Wat – don’t miss it.

Photos: Andrew Killeen

As the year comes to a close, it’s time for us to look back on some of the happy, the sad, and the downright weird happenings in Beijing over the past 12 months. Without further ado, here is your 2018 Year in Review.

While we love to travel around China, sometimes we need to get out and take a break for a week or two – preferably two. Whether you want to explore a new city or lounge on a beach, Beijing is well placed for you to pop over to some of Asia’s (and the world’s) best destinations. These were a few of our favorite trips in 2018 (click on the heading to read the full article):

Busan, South Korea

Haeundae Beach in eastern Busan

The large port city of Busan sits on the southeast nook of the Korean peninsula and, as the country’s second-largest city, provides a leisurely alternative to the cosmopolitan capital of Seoul. Beaches, hot springs, and nature reserves mingle with renowned Korean nightlife and dining, making for a city that is both easy to navigate and easy to love. Flights from Beijing to Gimhae International Airport can be bought for as little as RMB 1,500 roundtrip and take just two and a half hours each way.

George Town, Malaysia

Sampling nasi kandar in George Town

Fascinating, heritage-rich George Town, the capital of the Malaysian state of Penang (which includes both the island of Penang and a portion of the mainland), is the perfect destination for those searching for a mix of history and culture. Its prime position along trading routes through the Malacca Strait has left it with a vibrant mix of local Malay, Chinese, and Indian cultures, as well as plenty of British colonial architecture. Penang also has a well-earned reputation as the gastronomic capital of Malaysia, if not Asia, thanks to its multicultural food scene.

Vancouver, Canada

English Bay in Vancouver

Vancouver may seem like a strange choice for a column about short breaks from Beijing. Yet, with 10-hour direct flights on Air Canada or Air China, both of which offer frequent discount fares as low as RMB 3,000 return, a trip to Canada can work out cheaper than flights to Bangkok. Add easily accessible skiing and hiking, reasonably priced eating and drinking (don’t miss Granville Island Public Market, which is packed with stalls selling local produce), and a cosmopolitan art and music scene, and you may find yourself wondering why you haven’t already visited.

Nagasaki, Japan

Kofukuji Temple in Nagasaki

The name Nagasaki will always be synonymous with the dropping of the second atomic bomb at the end of World War II on Aug 9, 1945, and although that history in itself is enough of a reason to visit the city, there is plenty more besides to recommend it. From the 16th to the 19th centuries, Nagasaki played a prominent role in Japan’s international trade relations, particularly with Portugal, the Netherlands, and China, leaving it with a culturally and religiously diverse character. The easiest way to get to Nagasaki is probably to fly into Fukuoka (Air China flies daily to Fukuoka via Dalian) and take the train from there, which takes around two hours.

Perth, Australia

The Perth city skyline

Almost 8,000km south of Beijing, Perth, capital of Western Australia, might not seem like an obvious vacation spot. Yet with its 265 days of sunshine per year, pristine beaches, and easy access to one of the world’s greatest wine regions, it’s definitely worth the trip. There are currently no direct flights between Beijing and Perth, but there are regular services via Hong Kong and Guangzhou starting from around RMB 2,500. As an added bonus, Perth and Beijing are in the same time zone, so you won’t waste any of your precious vacation time recovering from jet lag.

READ: 2018 Year in Review: Beijing’s Top 10 New Bars

More stories by this author here.

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Photos: Wikimedia, Tom Arnstein, Robynne Tindall, Tourism Western Australia