Did you know that Julia Roberts plays mahjong regularly? At least that’s what she told Stephen Colbert in an interview on his talk show last year. That just goes to show the extent to which this fast-paced game of Chinese origins has spread and why you really should take it up! If you want to take up lessons to learn how to master this fascinating game, check out this article.

As a mahjong lover, I never did take the plunge to buy a table. Partly because of space constraints in my house and in part because I’m saving up for a really awesome electronic table hidden that packs away inside a wooden table carved in traditional Chinese style. So whenever my mahjong friends and I met up for a game, we would play on my living room table or on the dining table, which was clearly less than ideal.

But then we found a game room nearby with mahjong tables that we could rent! 星雅茶楼棋牌 (Xīng yǎ chálóu qípái) is in the Gaobeidian area of Chaoyang District, east of the CBD. Its name loosely translates into “tea house for chess and cards”. There are several types of rooms you could rent offering different games – from blackjack to poker and of course, mahjong. Check out the video below!

The room that we liked the best was the Japanese-inspired tatami room which was laid out in soft tatami mats and decorated with plastic sakura flowers. It was a fun backdrop against which to play the traditional game of mahjong. It cost us just over RMB108 for three hours (which is next to nothing when you split it 4 ways), not including the drinks we opted to buy for ourselves. The front counter also offers simple snacks and you can feel free to order waimai to the place!

PRO TIP: One drawback was that the place did smell of cigarettes, so maybe opt to bring a hand fan to air the place out, or call ahead to ask the staff to give you a room without the smell!

The same brand has another store in Guomao by the name of 星雅茶楼会馆 (Xīng yǎ chálóu huìguǎn) as well if you prefer a more central location.

Find it:
Xingya Tea House Chess and Cards
Gaobeidianxiang Huihe South Street Xidiancun Building No. 81 No. 3 F1, Chaoyang
惠河南街西店村A区81号楼3号一层
Tel: 13120161994

Want to play mahjong with us? Add VivienneTseng-Rush on WeChat and let’s set up a game!

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Images: Pexels, Vivienne Tseng-Rush

Have you ever spotted locals gathering around a table in the middle of the street in Beijing? Maybe you were confused by the situation or by the shuffling of the tiles. The locals were probably playing a very famous game called mahjong (麻将 májiàng).

Mahjong is a game played with sets of tiles, each based on Chinese characters and symbols. It’s a game of strategy, logic, skill, and a bit of luck.

Mahjong was developed in the mid-1800s. The game’s origins are unclear, and many theories exist. However, in the 1900s, the popularity of the game expanded around the world (mainly in Japan, England, and the US) resulting in new versions of mahjong’s rules.

To discover more about the fascinating culture of mahjong, we spoke with a mahjong player and teacher from the institution Our Beijing: Dominic De Couto

Could you introduce yourself?

My name is Dominic, I am from England, and I have been in Beijing for almost five years now.

I founded a company with my friend called Our Beijing. We have lots of great experiences for people to have a great time and learn more about Beijing in term of life culture and history. We have mahjong workshops, which I will be talking about, but also jianbing workshops, e-bike tours, walking tours, food tours, trips to the Great Wall, day trips to the river, or even paddleboarding experiences.

How was mahjong introduced to you?

I was introduced to mahjong by Culture Yard (a Chinese language school) and a friend, and I have been playing kind of often since! After we founded Our Beijing, we now concentrate on experiences, and Culture Yard on the Chinese language.

The first time Dominic played mahjong!

Why do you find mahjong interesting?

It is one of those local fun things to do, especially in the hutongs, where locals are playing on the streets. It has always been something I wanted to be involved in. Since it is played all around the country, when I meet up with friends from other cities in China, we can just sit down and play mahjong as we would do with cards.

“You just feel more part of China knowing how to play a local game,” says Dominic.

Do you have mahjong competitions?

During the classes, people play and get a bit competitive sometimes, but nothing like a real competition. We have been speaking with The Hutong (a culture exchange center) where we also host monthly classes, about setting up a mahjong club. We also offer private workshops at people’s homes and other locations we can travel to. There will be more people knowing how to play, so maybe this will become very competitive. Hopefully, it will open soon.

Do you enjoy teaching others?

Well, we have a local Beijing teacher. She is amazing and has been playing her whole life. As a great teacher, she is the one who teaches in our workshop. I still offer some help, especially in bigger groups. I sometimes try and teach friends, especially when my friends want to play with money!! I think I will definitely teach my friends when I come back to England.

What types of students join your classes?

With most of our experiences some local Chinese also join in if they speak English, but mainly expats. Mostly people between 35 to 50 come to our workshop. But mahjong is super fun so I would like to get more young people playing.

In Chinese culture, who usually plays mahjong?

Here, it is the older generation. Especially retirees in the hutongs, just playing all day in the streets.

What place does mahjong have in Chinese culture?

It is an important social activity, especially for friends and family. It’s just a special time meeting up with your mates and having fun.

Have you ever tried playing mahjong in the streets with locals?

In my experience of playing with locals, it has been so quality and welcoming. Even if it’s sitting on a chair outside chilling and having a drink, I really recommend people doing something with locals to feel a part of the community.

It is really getting over that first barrier of fear. Your level does not matter because the atmosphere is really amazing and the locals so welcoming.

“People say that Life starts outside of your comfort zone, and it’s true,” says Dominic.

The language barrier, sadly, often [discourages]people. I have sat down, played, and drunk with people, and had no idea what they were saying, but it does not stop you from enjoying experiences together.

What are the intellectual benefits of mahjong?

Not only on the social, fun, and cultural aspect, I think it’s also good for your brain because you must think tactically.

Exactly why I think it would be great to get the younger generation playing more. Especially now, where a lot play on their phones or tablets.

Playing mahjong has more than one benefit: the social and intellectual aspect, overcoming your fears, and overall having a good time.

Mahjong will be a part of Chinese culture forever – Aug 1 was even designated International Mahjong Day!

If you are interested in any of their workshops, feel free to check out Our Beijing’s WeChat account.

Images: Dominic, the Beijinger, Pexels, Canva, Unsplash

My Beijing besties love games. As in, one of them packed her substantial collection of card and board games in her carry-on when she came over to China. So I wasn’t surprised when she enthusiastically told me, “Let’s learn Mahjong!” What did surprise me, however, was how much this game would come to affect my experiences here in China.

For those not familiar, I’ll give you a super quick rundown. Mahjong, a cross between gin and dominos, is the most popular game in the entire world. The basic idea is that four sets of three and a set of two tiles create a winning hand. But the truly interesting thing is that every region has its own variations on the rules. A quick Google search will show you Beijing, Shanghai, Singapore, and even Japan and the United States have their own twist on the game. Within regions, friend groups have their own house rules. Every person I have spoken to plays just a little differently. So, when you sit down at a table you are getting an inside look at a community.

We started by taking a basic class, and then had a friendly running game each week. At first, it was a way to pass the time while Covid-19 restrictions prevented us from meeting in groups in public, but eventually, it became an anchor for my week. Our friendly competitions led to a group bond where we shared our personal lives, the challenges we were all facing as we missed out on family events in our home countries, and the life hacks and apps that were making our time in pandemic-era Beijing just a little easier.

Once travel within China opened up, I realized what a gift Mahjong was as a tool for bridging the cultural divide. No matter where I went there was a group of locals playing the game. In Chengdu, Shanghai, and the shop next door to my apartment in Beijing, I would find a group of friends playing (much faster than I am capable of), and if I stopped to watch they would eagerly motion me over and try to tell me the “real” way to play. My friends have all been invited to join in local games as well. Annie, the original Mahjong instigator, and her husband were invited to a New Year’s Eve game with a group of Singaporean coworkers. Brenda G, a member of our Tuesday group, started playing regularly with her acupuncturist and his wife. And as we all were invited into these intimate groups something wonderful started to happen. We would come back to our Tuesday table and announce, “Guess what I learned!” Mahjong became a way to break down barriers and have real conversations about Chinese culture and different perspectives with our new local friends.

My favorite Mahjong moment occurred in Zhangjiagang about six months ago. Some friends and I were hiking the Avatar Mountains, and that night we noticed a Mahjong set in our hotel’s sitting room. We pulled it out and started up a game. The reception desk noticed, and soon the entire hotel staff was watching the tourists clumsily play. They were thrilled! The cook, a kindly-looking elderly grandfather, stood behind me and enthusiastically pointed out all the mistakes I was making in rapid-fire Mandarin. I didn’t understand a single word he was saying but we were still communicating. When the game finally ended, he patted me on the shoulder, gave me a thumbs-up, and said, “Hen hao, laowai!”

Mahjong has deepened and broadened my experience in China, and in my books that’s a “hu le” (I win!).

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Photo: Unsplash

Whether you’re here for six months or 20 years, when you finally decide to leave these sometimes-smoggy shores, you’ll want to bring back something with a little Beijing flavor to show off to your friends. We’re not talking “I Heart BJ” T-shirts or Chinese silk scarves that litter the airport kitsch stores, but some actual keepsakes that will gently remind you of the unique experiences you had while calling this bustling city your home.

Mahjong set

It may not have been born in Beijing, but mahjong is certainly played aplenty in this urban jungle. For the uninitiated, this confounding and addictive game is played with four players and could be likened to Gin Rummy, albeit with more complicated rules and prettier tiles. The original mahjong tiles were made using ivory and bamboo, but ivory’s thankfully been outlawed, so we’ll settle for the ivory-inspired-but-really-plastic tiles. If you want a more authentic feel, there’s also the variant of bone tiles made from cow, which will definitely be a conversation-starter for back home. When buying a mahjong set, you can usually opt for a carry case in aluminium or wood to keep the tiles neat and tidy. Tip: If you’re buying the mahjong set on TaoBao, check the size of the tiles! Travel size mahjong sets are all the rage now, but unless you want to squint at the indecipherable squiggle on a half inch tile, get at least 30mm ones.

Customized folding fan

As a farewell gift, former Deputy Managing Editor Cindy received a hand-painted fan from a colleague that says “The Coolest Foreigner Around”

This one will take a little more effort on your part, but depending on your artistic skills, it may really pay off. You can paint your own traditional folding fan or simply have your name written on it in Chinese calligraphy. Better yet, give yourself a Chinese name and then have that written on the fan! Just be sure to check that the Chinese characters don’t have another meaning than you intended, like when my Australian cousin got a tattoo that she thought said “Gold Pearl” but really said “Golden Pig.” For fan-painting workshops, scan the QR code below!

A portrait of you as an emperor/empress at the Forbidden City 

Here’s hoping you’ve visited the Forbidden City during your stay in Beijing, because shame on you if you haven’t! Aside from a one-of-a-kind historical experience, the Forbidden City also offers some unbeatable photo ops! But don’t just pose for photos in your modern day garb and peace signs – why not partake in the ultimate dress up and put on the costume of the Dowager Empress, with full make-up and gear, and take a photo right in front of the throne room with your best ancient Chinese ruler power pose. Depending on the costumes you choose, these photography packages, available for booking on the 大众点评 (Dàzhòng diǎnpíng) app range from RMB 200 to over RMB 1,000, but those photos will truly be out of this world.

Beijing Postcards

Beijing Postcards is a company dedicated to Chinese history and all their products are based on original research using archival materials, books, out of print periodicals, and oral histories. They are most known for their prints of topographical maps of the city, which would freshen up any blank wall in your home. From limited edition hardcover out-of-print books such as Sidelights on Peking Life by Robert Swallow, to cushion covers and yes, actual postcards, you can shop their WeChat store by scanning the QR code below.

Plastered8 hoodie 

Homegrown Beijing brand Plastered8 offers some wildly creative tees and hoodies with all sorts of local colloquialisms and catch-phrases splashed across in bright colors. These eye-catching garments will certainly add a dash of fun to any wardrobe, and also start a conversation – “What’s that say?” – with overseas, non-Chinese speakers. One of editor Mina Yan‘s favorites says “哪京块, 哪呆着 Nǎ jīng kuài, nǎ dāizhe” which the brand translates as “Get lost” (though Mina says it’s something else less polite). My personal pick? Their bright and cheery Beijing Kaleidoscope hoodies that are available in kids sizes too! Search 创可贴8T恤 on TaoBao to shop their funky store.

Liuba Draws 

If you don’t quite trust your creative bone, then trust Liuba’s! Liuba Draws‘ merch is an iconic sight at craft fairs in Beijing, and she also has a WeiDian so you can browse and purchase all her designs online. Our recommendations are her bold acrylic 煎饼 jiānbing pancake, 啤酒 píjiǔ beer, or simply 北京 bějīng Beijing earrings, and also her yearly calendars with hand-drawn monthly scenes depicting various Beijing hotspots in various weather conditions, which you’ll know all about if you’ve lived through the extremes of the four seasons here. I also got a “Beijing hutong” fridge magnet for my father’s ever-expanding collection of country magnets. Check out her website here.

Lost Puppies merch

And just for all the supporters of Beijing’s furry friends, we had to tell you about the cool new merchandise that non-profit volunteer organization Lost Puppies recently made available! From baseball caps with their signature Lost Pup graphic, to funky tees that say “Dog hair is my glitter,” you’re not only buying a fun accessory, but also a meaningful one that helps to rehome abandoned dogs in our city. Scan the QR code below to contact Lost Puppies.

Got any other ideas for wacky, one-of-a-kind souvenirs that you can only find in Beijing? Share them with us in the comments below!

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Images: TaoBao, DazhongDianping, Liuba Draws Instagram, Lost Puppies

As well as traditional snow and ice sports such as skiing and skating, recent reports have suggested that a surprising new entry might feature in the Beijing Winter Olympics: mahjong.

Yes, that’s right. A game perhaps more associated with old people sitting around in parks or housewives with secret gambling problems, mahjong has been mooted as a possible “demonstration event” at the 2022 Games. Demonstration events haven’t been a part of the Olympics since 1992, when for both Curling in the Winter Games and Taekwondo in the Summer it was a step to full inclusion. Other sports have not been so lucky: pigeon racing, cannon shooting and kite flying all failed to make the leap from demonstration to Olympic sport.

The origins of mahjong are murky and disputed. Despite some claims for ancient provenance, most experts agree that it emerged in its modern form in Shanghai in the late 19^th century, when the crucial shift from cards to tiles took place. In the 1920s the game became popular in the west, and the craze for Mahjong parties where guests dressed up in “Chinese” costumes even inspired a novelty pop song, “Since Ma Is Playing Mahjong.”

Mahjong faces some challenges before being accepted as an Olympic event though. It has only recently been admitted by the International Mind Sports Association (IMSA), and has to wait in line behind longer-established games like chess and bridge.

“The six mind sports can be divided into three levels”, according to Chen Zelan, President of IMSA. “Chess and bridge, which have already been recognized as sports by the IOC, have the priority to be admitted to the Games. Among the other four mind sports, go and draughts are official member sports of SportAccord, while Xiangqi and Mahjong are still just observers of it, let alone (could they be included in the) Winter Olympic Games.”

There’s also the many different variations of the rules, and the strong element of luck involved. However the prospects for Olympic Mahjong are not as dim as it may appear. From 1912 to 1948, poetry was an official event at the Games, for which medals were awarded. So anything is possible.

Photos: Audrey via Flickr, pinterest.com