Retail – Beijing Kids

What’s Behind Brandy Melville Opening in Beijing?

Cynthia Zhang — Wed, 07 Jul 2021 03:00:41 +0000

Scroll down the 小红书 xiǎo hóng shū app and you’ll find at least a dozen posts featuring Chinese girls wearing Air Force 1 sneakers, mom jeans, crop tops, and vintage baguette bags. Chances are they’re also obsessively thin, tall, and good-looking. These posts, generally titled “BM style OOTD,” are well-known by teenagers with at least a vague sense of what’s out and about, the trend is not new: BM style is the colloquial Chinese term for the Brandy Melville style, where you can find plaid skirts, floral tank tops, and vintage-print tees in stores tiled with hardwood and painted in a color palette of cream, beige, rose and navy, ostensibly meant to emulate ’90s aesthetics. Founded in Italy in 1994, Brandy Melville began opening up locations internationally in 2009, with its flagship store in Los Angeles, CA. However, today, it’s the de-facto symbol of Gen-Z clothing and the VSCO girl: Who doesn’t have something Brandy in their wardrobe?

Brandy Melville’s Instagram page, with its 3.5 million followers, mainly features white, blond, skinny girls.

The Cali beach girl fast-fashion brand has been rapidly expanding across Asia and opening stores in Bangkok, Singapore, Bali, Hongkong, Shanghai, and most recently – on May 29 – Beijing. Brandy Melville didn’t become a sensation overnight though. Famous actress and cellist Ouyang Nana, Korean pop stars Jisoo and Jennie from Blackpink, and similar celebrities helped popularize the brand amongst China’s youth. And their marketing team clearly knows a thing or two about the capital, having opened their Beijing store in Sanlitun, undoubtedly the place to chill with friends during a relaxing summer vacation.

Even before the grand opening, the store had already begun to gain clout on the internet. Getting paid or not, bloggers posted sneak-peak photos of the store under construction and mapped out the way to get there (it’s walking distance from Taikooli) on Xiaohongshu. And the first day after it opened, my friend coined the scene a Caishichang, or outdoor markets that locals prefer to shop at. People were swarming into the “market” to take selfies with famous Chinese TikTok stars and fashion influencers (if you want to see the scene for yourself, search “BM北京开业”) while gathering quality content, eager to be the first to post on social media. However, a closer look at Brandy’s management model and their underlying motive to cultivate an Asian market may make you think twice before compulsively purchasing another spaghetti-strap dress.

Three weeks after opening, it’s still a Caishichang.

First, Brandy Melville is notorious for its one-size-fits-most clothing policy. It’s ironic because the size small (160cm and a 61cm waistline on average) that runs through virtually all their pieces— except for some occasional oversized hoodies and jackets—does not fit “most.” This exclusive benchmark for who is eligible to wear their clothes constructs an insidious hierarchy of body sizes among teens: I’m skinny enough to fit in, you’re not. I reckon most adults would deem this toxic and dismiss it out of hand, but teens nowadays are too easily affected by societal standards of the idyllic petite body image.

You may remember the “backhand belly button” trend or the “A4 waist challenge” that went viral on Weibo a few years ago. These were precursors to the BM style that drives young women down all but one path: an abnormally underweight aesthetic. So, instead of turning away to buy clothes at some other store, young girls develop unhealthy eating habits in an attempt to lose weight until they quite literally fit in. Especially for Chinese people who are used to the constant pressures of self-improvement, young girls can wind up going to the extreme. The one-size ideal, at its heart, engenders controversy because clothes have slowly evolved from fitting people to people fitting the clothes. They reinforce the insecurities of young girls and a self-loathing that has already ruined many teenagers’ lives. It’s not merely about fitting in a skirt anymore; it’s about fitting into this exclusive fashion community. And when Brandy is reigning at the summit, who would resist doing so?

The sizing chart for an ideal BM girl went viral on Xiaohongshu and Weibo.

Brandy Melville also knows its consumers fairly well. While it might be costly for an average teenager to fill their wardrobe with designer brands or high-end street fashion, Brandy sets its prices between RMB 100 and RMB 315. This range is well-suited to 学生党 xueshengdang – a popular term for the Chinese student cohort – who receive limited pocket money but still want to follow the latest trends. Yet, as reported by The Fashion Law, the company netted $300 million in annual sales in 2018.

To make their brand appear down-to-earth and within reach, Brandy neither advertises nor partners with celebrities or supermodels. Instead, they post Polaroid-style snapshots of customers wearing their clothes on Instagram and hire store clerks in much the same way. Simply put, there’s no traditional job interview or application process. Rather, if a customer is attractive enough, they’re hired – even if they have zero retail experience. This illusory inclusivity is a win-win strategy for both the brand and the consumer. “I was asked by the store manager to work part-time [on the spot]” is the top-liked Xiaohongshu post when you search “BM北京 Brandy Melville Beijing” – a subtle boast that has since become the qualification of being a Brandy girl.

Older folks may still give you the eye when wearing a v-neck top on the streets of Beijing

Many Chinese consumers thank Brandy for defying the conservative fashion norm that has long pervaded China by normalizing showing our bodies rather than hiding them. While some elders may still regard tank tops as undergarments and inappropriate clothing to be worn in public, many young women are becoming increasingly comfortable with wearing more revealing clothing. Still, many are convinced that chopstick legs, A4 waists, and slender arms are prerequisites to wearing skinny jeans, skirts, and crop tops without getting scorned. The nuances that lie within the influence of Brandy culture tell us that it’s a daily struggle for Chinese girls to balance self-confidence and self-deprecation.

Yes, Brandy has inadvertently helped girls enjoy a greater sense of fashion freedom in China. But realize that there are other directions we can branch out to create more inclusive notions around beauty – ones that encompass shapes and sizes of all kinds and advocate for true body positivity.

KEEP READING: In Search of Treasure at the Roundabout Retail Store

Images: Cynthia Zhang, Brandy Melville Official Instagram

Foreigners Mourn Carrefour’s Retreat From China, Marking the End of a Retail Era

Kipp Whittaker — Thu, 27 Jun 2019 07:02:08 +0000

Carrefour regulars looking for a discount might be dismayed by its latest markdown. Earlier this week the French retailer sold 80 percent of its China ownership stake to domestic retailer Suning.com for RMB 4.8 billion (USD 698 million), a valuation of 0.2 times its 2018 sales. That is well below the 0.8 times industry average, which is “likely due to poor financial results,” according to Bloomberg.

It is a stark reversal of fortunes for one of the first foreign retailers in China. Since its debut in 1995, Carrefour has gone on to operate 210 supermarkets and 24 convenience stores nationwide. However, its 2018 sales in China stood at RMB 28.20 billion (USD 4.10 billion), a roughly 10 percent decline from the previous year, according to Channel News Asia.

Once seen as a leading foreign retailer in China, Carrefour has more recently fallen on hard times

Contending With the Rise of E-Commerce

Carrefour is the latest in a string of foreign retailers paring back their China presence, including Tesco, Marks & Spencer, and Best Buy, according to Quartz, who partly ascribe the French retailer’s retreat as a protective measure before it attempts to take on consumer juggernaut Amazon back in the US.

With regards to China, Carrefour and its fellow foreign grocers “have not adapted fast enough,” according to Michael Zakkour, author of The New Retail: Born in China, Going Global. He told the Beijinger that Chinese e-commerce giants like Alibaba and JD have a lockdown on the domestic market, and Amazon is thriving internationally, thanks to “complete integration of online, offline, logistics, and technology that is the heart of new retail.”

Chinese e-commerce brands like JD and Alibaba have left foreign retailers like Carrefour in the dust

Carrefour and its foreign ilk, meanwhile, faltered as e-commerce took hold in China, according to retail analyst Cathy Roberson. She says: “Logistics and tech trends move so fast in China. I’ve always considered it ahead of the US and Europe in e-commerce trends. And foreign retailers not following such trends find themselves losing out.”

Zakkour adds that “for big physical footprint food retailers it is almost impossible to succeed without partnering with an established Chinese company.” Jeffrey Towson, a business professor at Peking University, concurs. He told the Beijinger: “The competition in Chinese retail is intense, and foreign retailers have no real advantages. It’s just a tough business and most are struggling. A good move for traditional retailers is to partner with a leading e-commerce player, like Walmart working with JD.” But such lifeline partnerships proved elusive for Carrefour, according to Bloomberg, which said its offset of stakes to Suning “comes after a long search for a partner for the French company’s struggling Chinese operations.”

Carrefour did not reply to the Beijinger’s interview request before press time. However, a representative from a major foreign food company that has worked with the French retailer on the mainland provided some illuminating insights about the deal with Suning. Speaking on the condition of anonymity, he told the Beijinger that Carrefour only reached a profit margin of maximum 1.4 percent here last year. Carrefour then “finally decided to exit from China because it is a very difficult market for foreign retailers to compete.”

Chinese retail giant Suning bought 80 percent of Carrefour’s stake on the mainland

Customer Dissatisfaction

One customer who is unfazed by Carrefour’s China downturn, and who asked to remain anonymous, recalls how after finding a rotting fish in a tank at one of their Beijing branches, his complaints to an attendant not only fell on deaf ears, but that employee then tried to sell him the rotting fish before placing it on ice next to other seafood for sale. “You’ve been warned,” the customer later told followers on social media.

Nicole Bonnah, deputy managing editor at beijingkids, says Carrefour’s customer service and deliveries have gradually become unreliable. She adds: “I’ve used them ever since I moved to Beijing. These last two months, all my deliveries have been delayed, sometimes until the next day, with no notice for same-day deliveries.”

Customers have noted a sharp decline in Carrefour’s delivery services over the past couple of months

Such delivery shortcomings certainly don’t bode well for any retailer attempting to stay afloat, much less prosper, in China. According to Zakkour, the e-commerce author, success here boils down to one thing: choice, and specifically, “choice on where to buy, when to buy, what to buy, anywhere, anytime, and to have it delivered and fulfilled with superior speed and service.” Alibaba’s Hema market, in Zakkour’s view, is far more successful in that regard than any foreign brand.

READ: Hema Supermarket Offers a Taste of the Sea

Brick and Mortar Nostalgia

And while Carrefour has lagged behind when it comes to such cutting-edge services, many foreign customers will sorely miss its stores and stock if they disappear entirely. Ana Lourenco, an expat who runs a popular WeChat group called Foodies in Beijing, told us that she relies on the French big box store because, “I cook half of my meals at home, and I live in the suburbs. So Carrefour is one of the only options for imports here.” She even prefers it to other supermarkets stocked with Western goods since, “Carrefour imports are mostly from the Carrefour brand, so they end up being cheaper and there’s a lot more choice.”

Experts say Carrefour’s Mainland decline is part of a trend in foreign retailer paring back their China presence

Meanwhile, Stefan Berder, a Shanghai expat who has known to be effusive about the retailer’s wares on social media, tells the Beijinger how Carrefour was indispensable when Western options were more scarce in China. He also believes the French retailer remained valuable even as imports became more common. “I’d go there for my foreign cravings, like fresh bread, meat, some French products, at better prices than specialty stores,” he says.

However, Berder holds out hope that the deal with Suning won’t lead the stores to “change too much because I think their import sections are quite popular with a lot of people.”

Many certainly share that hope, with Lourenco saying, “I was very upset when I heard the news [about the Suning deal]actually, and plan on stocking up,” adding that the loss of Carrefour will “definitely leave a void for me.”

READ: Beijing Rolls Out New Regulations for Trash Recycling

More stories by this author here.
Email: kylemullin@truerun.com
Twitter: @MulKyle
Instagram: mullin.kyle

Photos: AFP (via CNA), freemalaysiatoday.com, Bloomberg (via Yahoo), VCG (via Sixth Tone), Finance Asia

Cheap but Cheerful: Summer Steals at Miniso

Nicole Bonnah — Wed, 12 Jun 2019 00:00:41 +0000

Spreading out all over Beijing like an aggressive fungus is a petite store called Miniso: the Holy Grail of Scrooges, and the lord and savior of broke people. Whether you are a penniless teenager, or have simply already spent all your earnings on impulse purchases you don´t need (shame on you), Miniso is here to save us all!

Now that it´s summer, there is no time like the present to head on down to Miniso to check out the new summer collection. So, grab that lonesome RMB 50 you have left, or are willing to spend, and come shopping with us.

Water Bottles

Always stay hydrated with these cool water bottles. Whether you like Sesame Street, Pink Panther, or strange little yellow chickens, these water bottles are the right purchase for you. There are various prints to choose from, so even if you prefer plain bottles (why would you though? Pink Panther is awesome!), you can get your hands on one of these beauties. RMB 15-19.90

Lunch Box

Need a new lunch box to go with that bottle? Transport your snacks in style with this sassy bear-print container. There is something for everyone with a range of colors to select from. No matter what your choice of snack, be it fruit or chips, (I see you, but same bro), this box will always keep your selection fresh! RMB 10

Sunscreen

Get ready for the summer and take care of all the family’s skin needs this season with these affordable sunscreens. Apply generously, protect your skin, and don’t burn up under the hot sun. Save yourselves some renminbi and grab this bargain. RMB 39.9

Mosquito Repellent

As important as sunscreen is mosquito repellent. Don’t get stung this summer! Avoid squealing kids, itchy bumps, scratching, and scarring. You and the family don’t need the stress. Use these sprays to fend those pesky mites without breaking the bank. It is always better to be safe than sorry. RMB 15

Fans

Miniso has a wide selection of fans to choose from. If you fancy having a bit of fun with your fan purchase, you will be spoiled for choice. If it’s not already hot enough for you, go for one with the cheeky devil horns or get cute and grab yourself the one with the attached bear ears. Plain Jane? There are a ton of more simple designs to select. Acquire a fresh breeze and stay cool. RMB 49.9

Flip-flops

Beijing always has very hot summers. You and the family can avoid stifled feet and smelly odors by trading in your sneakers for a pair of flip-flops with a cool print and plenty of wriggle room. Trust me, there is nothing worse than sweaty feet for you or the kids. Get summer ready and sport a beach-in-the-city look! RMB19.9

Sunglasses

Always stay cool with these awesome sunglasses. Protect your eyes from dangerous ultraviolet rays (yes, we love the sun, but we need to be careful), and please the inner diva in your kids with these fun and daring sunglasses. All this fierceness for mere pocket change. RMB 10

Hats

What are a pair of awesome sunglasses without an awesome bucket hat? Protect the family from heat stroke with a very fashionable clothing item. With so much choice the only problem to be concerned with is which one to get! So, get choosing one, (or two, or three, darn it! – I want to have them all!). RMB 35

Goggles

I´ll tell you what you don´t want to happen under any circumstances. Remember trying your best to avoid getting soap into your little ones’ eyes during bath time? The same can be said for wanting to protect your kids’ eyes from chlorine when swimming. Avoid irritable eyes and strops by the pool. Don’t let anything get in the way of your swimming time, and don a pair of these goggles. RMB 19.9

Bags

I wonder where all your new purchases will go? How will you ever carry them all home? I have the answer – one of these funky rucksacks! You have a variety to choose from and they are all perfect for a nice day at the pool or beach. RMB 29.90

And that’s a wrap, ladies and gentlemen. Get your Miniso on this summer and walk away with nothing but awesome bargains. Deck out you and the kids for next to nothing and spread the word. Your friends will thank you!

Photos: Lian Sossdorf, Pixabay

TreeHouse Holds Closing Sale

Sisi_Chen

As seen on Beijing Mamas: TreeHouse Family Cafe and Playground is holding a closing sale at Sanlitun SOHO (not at their former location) to get rid of some furniture and other items. The play center and cafe closed abruptly two weeks ago.

A partial list of items was posted on Beijing Mamas, including:

Three blue and white baby safe gates (RMB 200 each)
A handmade wooden, wall-mounted children’s cuckoo club (RMB 400)
An HP Photosmart C4388 all-in-one printer, scanner, and copier (RMB 200)

All prices are negotiable, with sales happening on a first come, first serve basis. More items will be posted as the founders sort out their stuff.

Photo by Lova

Mothercare Has Moved

Sisi_Chen — Tue, 03 Jan 2012 02:00:00 +0000

The Solana branch of Mothercare, the British superbrand for expectant mothers and kids 0-8 years old, has moved. The store isn’t going far, but simply moving from its former location at SMM-42 (now home to the long-delayed H&M) to bigger digs in Solana’s Children’s World (儿童天地, in the basement close to Bershka). To sweeten the deal, Mothercare is giving out RMB 20 vouchers with every purchase of RMB 500 or above until stocks last. In addition, the first 15 moms-to-be who spend RMB 500 or more will receive an RMB 800 International Mommy & Baby Healthcare Institute card.

The new store has everything Beijing parents have come to rely on: maternity clothing, strollers, bedding, car seats, playpens, baby monitors, kids’ clothes, backpacks, baby bottles, nursery furniture, and more. Mothercare now neighbors other children’s stores like Kidsland, NGY Kids, Lijia Baby, Chicco, Okaidi, and more.

Mothercare, VDM-09, Solana Lifestyle Shopping Center, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District (6386 9299) 英国母婴服饰用品专家，朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾VDM-09