Like moths to a flame, we are all drawn to the sparkle of beautiful jewelry, the seductive curvature of a gem-studded broach, or even the noble elegance of a simple bracelet. We love pretty little things that connect not only to our inner royal selves, but rather guiltily to our capitalist tendencies. But have you ever stopped to think, “At what cost to the environment did my diamond ring come?” We might all be familiar with the direct human conflicts precious metals and gems can wreak, but the environmental impact still remains a mystery to a large extent. It is this sort of question which led Yushan Sun down her chosen path, as a jewelry designer and founder of Solotus Jewelry Studio located in the 798 Art District in Beijing, entirely dedicated to sustainable jewelry design and production, she also loves and gets inspiration from healing crystal jewelry pieces.

Yushan Sun

Sporting a buzz cut and a fresh face, she is unconventionally striking. Observing her work, it is easy to see the passion in her eyes. It is painstaking work, which requires both patience and precision, much like a surgeon working around a delicate nerve. Looking at her exquisitely produced pieces, it is hard to believe that all the glittering stones bouncing shards of light back into my eyes are man-made moissanite and rubies grown in labs. The metals used are also upcycled, a trend becoming a mainstay in the world of design.

What initially inspired you when you were a student to study in this field, and what was your parents’ reaction to your choice?

Strangely, I was obsessed with being in the service industry growing up. Ever since I became of legal age to work – which is 16 in China – I loved being a part of a team to serve people. Since then I have been a waitress, bartender, parade performer, bubble tea barista, and dancer just to mention a few. Along the way I realized I was mostly attracted to the immediate outcome in the service industry – the satisfaction of the customer shows, which is always an instant source of validation.

However, as a student with good grades in school, it didn’t make that much sense to be in the service industry; not to mention the fact that my parents wouldn’t have been all too satisfied with my life choices. That withstanding, I needed to find a more skillful way to make something truly unique.

So I decided on making wedding rings as my next goal. I first decided that when I was 17. Part of the decision came from being a romantic at heart as a teenager, but also with a part of me thinking the rings are some of the most important pieces of jewelry and indeed in a relationship; not only wedding rings, but also objects like lockets, signet rings, custom pieces that honor specific events, and so forth. The tradition of wearing an object as a memento is so beautiful that making them sounded truly like the perfect lifelong career.

How did your upbringing inspire you to not only become a jeweler but choose to go the sustainable route?

When I was attending Virginia Commonwealth University pursuing a degree in crafts, I came across a truly inspiring professor: Susie Ganch, who is also the co-founder of the Ethical Metalsmith organization, and director of the Radical Jewelry Makeover movement, a show that travels the world inviting metal-smiths make something new with unwanted jewelry. Learning about what happens behind a piece of jewelry and the possible waste during mining, cutting, and producing jewelry changed my perception of working as a jeweler and designer.

Getting into the industry, I worked as a bench jeweler in Aide-memoire Jewelry studio, which is also a part of the ethical jewelry brand. That provided me with a new and refreshing point of view of what one can do to make a difference in one’s line of jewelry to make it truly sustainable. I decided to take part in the movement and introduce the idea to consumers in China. Therefore my flagship store at the 798 art district, Solotus jewelry studio, serves a possibility of sustainable jewelry using maximum recycled precious metal with lab-grown and recycled gem stones.

What are some things that people don’t consider when they are looking for jewelry that you would wish they did?

People have different reason when shopping or customizing jewelry, so they look for different things: design, brand, and price points. I truly understand that. Lots would overlook other makers, the miners as well as the gem cutters. When you find a piece that’s somehow very cheap, think about the people and hands said piece goes through. The price can tell a lot; would you imagine the share a gem cutter or an artisanal miner can get from selling the goods? Would consider them to be well paid? How about the designers? Did you see a similar piece before? Is there actually a designer behind the piece? Or is it a case of only copying and modifications from some other fellow designers?

As consumers, asking the right questions helps the market to be more sustainable, therefore that’s the unique power that every consumer has. As they say: “we vote with our money.”

Where do you see your industry is heading to? What is the future of jewelry and where do you see yourself in this future?

As the social structure changes with time, we are all headed towards a different direction towards a lifestyle-oriented future. As I personally have a positive mindset, I like to think we are all getting more socially aware as well as environmentally conscious. The process is certainly gradual, but it is well underway.

As a jeweler that makes wedding rings and custom pieces, I see more people who respect and support independent jewelers, especially the ones that follow a more ethical production process. There is a lot to be done, but with a supporting community, we shall all be making an impact in due time.

What is your advice to parents and kids who might be considering a career in the jewelry industry, and how might you encourage them to go forward with their dreams?

I was lucky to have a supportive family that really respected my own path. Both of my parents were engineers that worked in different fields. Born in the 60s in rural China, they were lucky to have me in a big city like Beijing, but neither of them were in touch with the art or design field. That makes my own career path something brand new to the family. All three of us worked very hard, with me following my dream path, and my loving parents trying to not only understand but also provide unconditional support.

Jewelry design might sounds nice and pretty, but when you dig into it, there’s a lot more in the industry that might be obscured and that one needs to be aware of; for instance, one carat of diamond needs 250 tons of digging into the earth, with further cultural sacrifices in the mining area. Additionally, hard ground mining like gold mines will create acid chemical waste that leaves a drying ground. And I am sure jewelry is not the only such harmful industry.  Every industry has its own ethics and things that are to be found and discussed.

There’s never a straight path towards finding a perfect solution to such problems. This is the time to fully explore alternatives. And not only think of the responsibility we have to the future generations but to the ones that came before. Learn from their mistakes while teaching the future generations of a better way.

What is your all-time inspiration for your work?

Culture and art from history. Recently, I really got into the Indian royal objects from the 1800s. I like to keep a sketch book and sketch out objects found on streets, shops, and museums to have a better understanding of the maker’s creative process.

Photos: Courtesy of Yushan Sun

Sustainability has long been on the lips of experts, activists, bloggers, vloggers, and even moms (and dads) wanting to encourage their families to develop eco-friendly habits and awareness of their global impact which small purchasing decisions can make. Eco-conscious trends are now taking the fashion industry by storm, as the drivers of consumer spending habits change. Savvy shoppers are more educated about fashion supply chains, from farms to factories to retail stores and our wardrobes, and what very real impact our consumption has on the planet –  from climate change to fair trade practices.

In this month’s sustainability-focused issue, we have indulged in going green. We all want to make better choices when we choose to shop and naturally we also want to feel transformed and beautiful through the purchases that we make. Sustainable choices for your wardrobe can easily be achieved using the simple but empowering choices we made to transform hardworking homemaker, Angela Im.

Im is mom to 9-year-old Isla who she diligently home schools, while also encouraging eco-friendly behaviors in and outside the home. From attending local clothing auctions, where ladies buy previously-loved items for charity, to zero-waste efforts when it comes to cooking, Im is never far from a sustainable act!

Embracing the philosophy of living sustainably, where less is always more, we started with a haircut. Less hair and beautiful woody highlights framed Im’s face beautifully, allowing attention to be drawn to her dancing eyes and infectious smile. Hairstylist, Ken of Catherine De France salon in Sanlitun, once again brought our vision to life, first by softening Im’s brunette tresses with a brighter brown and adding color with a few highlights. Ken finished the styling with a blow-dry and curls for an elegant but fun look.

Im doesn’t often dress up or wear makeup, and remarked how little she frequents the hair salon or mall for some retail therapy, so we went all out with a simple but striking palette for her makeup; slightly smokey eyes with pink lips, and a little gloss for a touch of glamour.

To add a little ‘zen’ to our eco-conscious photo shoot, we opted to dress Im in the yoga pants with matching tank top from eco-conscious activewear line, Teeki. The soft and durable yoga gear is made from 79 percent recycled plastic bottles. We love the idea of using a material that is increasingly polluting our oceans to create pieces that women use to move, meditate, and reflect in. Im is a bright and positive soul, and so we matched her contagious smile and energy with a little red number from my very own wardrobe for the second look.

To breath a little life and fun into the dress, we secured the eco-friendly services of designer Amili Ma, who is currently running a number of workshops, teaching people how to mend old clothing. Ma uses motifs, embroidery, and all kinds of embellishments to transform clothing that’s been stuck in the back of the wardrobe or pieces that you just can’t bear to let go of, but which are a little worse for wear. Using an assortment of red buttons, Ma created a heart motif on the dress, drawing attention to the little patch of skin at the back. The simple but whimsical design showcased the dress while adding a new dimension. We accessorized with a beaded necklace I bought in Malaysia back in 2012 and a yellow statement piece from Chariots Jewelry, who donate one hundred percent of their proceeds to their partnered charities.

The colorful and minimalist backdrop was generously provided by M Woods art gallery, where Swedish artist Nicolas Party’s first exhibition in China, Arches, celebrates nature and landscapes with hand-painted murals and a purposeful engagement with physical space and color. M Woods is currently running educational workshops for kids with specialized programs to help introduce the world of contemporary art to children and young adults. This imaginative and inspiring space perfectly partnered with our sustainable fashion shoot.

Be more sustainable with your fashion, buy less, spend less, and love what you already own using imaginative and creative tools. Have a rummage through your closet (or someone else’s) and further cultivate an eco-conscious mind without the need to give up on style!

Get this look

Catherine de France Salon 
East Avenue Building G/F 10 Xin Dong Lu, Chaoyang District. 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层 (8442 5120)

Chariots Jewellery
WeChat ID: TinaChariots

Amili Idea Embroideries
WeChat ID: aimili120100

Teeki Yoga Pants
www.teeki.com, WeChat ID: TheresaRe

M Woods 
D-06, 798 Art Zone, No. 2 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District. (8312 3450)

Over four years ago, a small group of women gathered together bringing their unworn clothing, in order to share it with each other, and raise money for charity. Fast forward to 2018 and the concept has grown with over 500 women attending the regular events held across Beijing in people’s homes, with over RMB 100,000 being raised this year alone.

The most recent Christmas Charity Auction was held at East Hotel who are avid proponents of sustainable and charitable initiatives, and saw 45 women gather together for a large scale pop-up clothing event, complete with good food and fine wine, that raised over RMB 15,000. In order to illustrate just how much this movement has grown, last years event, also graciously hosted by East Hotel, raised RMB 6,000.

The Clothing Auction Network is built on three key concepts:

1. Community – Strong friendships have formed between the women as they have bonded regularly over clothes, wine and food. New people are always welcome to join in the community, with many women saying they only had to attend one event to become an ‘addict’. Shopping is way more fun with friends, especially over wine, where you can get honest feedback about how things look and what suits you. The auctioneers running the event are able to get the laughs going, making for super enjoyable evenings.
2. Charity – All clothing is donated by participants, and then auctioned off with 100% of proceeds being donated to charity, with the leftover clothing either being up-cycled or donated to charity.
3. Sustainable Fashion – Buying second hand clothing is a sustainable solution to the environmental problem caused by the fashion industry. Many women suffer from having wardrobes full of clothes they have purchased that don’t fit, don’t look right, or that they just don’t want anymore. Bringing these clothes along to an Auction gives the clothes a second chance to go to a new home. Many of the items at the events have been circulating through the Network for 4 years, and have had several homes as people wear them for a season, then pass them on.

The Clothing Auction Network would love to thank all their sponsors who have donated their products or services to bring extra joy and love to the event – East Hotel, Laurent Falcon Hair Salon, PR/ME Gym, Powerful Human Candles, Pauline’s Cuisine, Zest, and ALL About.

For more information on Clothing Auctions, or if you would like to become a part of this incredible community, WeChat Rebecca on 130 7116 2353.

Photos: Courtesy of Clothing Auction Network