Like moths to a flame, we are all drawn to the sparkle of beautiful jewelry, the seductive curvature of a gem-studded broach, or even the noble elegance of a simple bracelet. We love pretty little things that connect not only to our inner royal selves, but rather guiltily to our capitalist tendencies. But have you ever stopped to think, “At what cost to the environment did my diamond ring come?” We might all be familiar with the direct human conflicts precious metals and gems can wreak, but the environmental impact still remains a mystery to a large extent. It is this sort of question which led Yushan Sun down her chosen path, as a jewelry designer and founder of Solotus Jewelry Studio located in the 798 Art District in Beijing, entirely dedicated to sustainable jewelry design and production, she also loves and gets inspiration from healing crystal jewelry pieces.

Yushan Sun

Sporting a buzz cut and a fresh face, she is unconventionally striking. Observing her work, it is easy to see the passion in her eyes. It is painstaking work, which requires both patience and precision, much like a surgeon working around a delicate nerve. Looking at her exquisitely produced pieces, it is hard to believe that all the glittering stones bouncing shards of light back into my eyes are man-made moissanite and rubies grown in labs. The metals used are also upcycled, a trend becoming a mainstay in the world of design.

What initially inspired you when you were a student to study in this field, and what was your parents’ reaction to your choice?

Strangely, I was obsessed with being in the service industry growing up. Ever since I became of legal age to work – which is 16 in China – I loved being a part of a team to serve people. Since then I have been a waitress, bartender, parade performer, bubble tea barista, and dancer just to mention a few. Along the way I realized I was mostly attracted to the immediate outcome in the service industry – the satisfaction of the customer shows, which is always an instant source of validation.

However, as a student with good grades in school, it didn’t make that much sense to be in the service industry; not to mention the fact that my parents wouldn’t have been all too satisfied with my life choices. That withstanding, I needed to find a more skillful way to make something truly unique.

So I decided on making wedding rings as my next goal. I first decided that when I was 17. Part of the decision came from being a romantic at heart as a teenager, but also with a part of me thinking the rings are some of the most important pieces of jewelry and indeed in a relationship; not only wedding rings, but also objects like lockets, signet rings, custom pieces that honor specific events, and so forth. The tradition of wearing an object as a memento is so beautiful that making them sounded truly like the perfect lifelong career.

How did your upbringing inspire you to not only become a jeweler but choose to go the sustainable route?

When I was attending Virginia Commonwealth University pursuing a degree in crafts, I came across a truly inspiring professor: Susie Ganch, who is also the co-founder of the Ethical Metalsmith organization, and director of the Radical Jewelry Makeover movement, a show that travels the world inviting metal-smiths make something new with unwanted jewelry. Learning about what happens behind a piece of jewelry and the possible waste during mining, cutting, and producing jewelry changed my perception of working as a jeweler and designer.

Getting into the industry, I worked as a bench jeweler in Aide-memoire Jewelry studio, which is also a part of the ethical jewelry brand. That provided me with a new and refreshing point of view of what one can do to make a difference in one’s line of jewelry to make it truly sustainable. I decided to take part in the movement and introduce the idea to consumers in China. Therefore my flagship store at the 798 art district, Solotus jewelry studio, serves a possibility of sustainable jewelry using maximum recycled precious metal with lab-grown and recycled gem stones.

What are some things that people don’t consider when they are looking for jewelry that you would wish they did?

People have different reason when shopping or customizing jewelry, so they look for different things: design, brand, and price points. I truly understand that. Lots would overlook other makers, the miners as well as the gem cutters. When you find a piece that’s somehow very cheap, think about the people and hands said piece goes through. The price can tell a lot; would you imagine the share a gem cutter or an artisanal miner can get from selling the goods? Would consider them to be well paid? How about the designers? Did you see a similar piece before? Is there actually a designer behind the piece? Or is it a case of only copying and modifications from some other fellow designers?

As consumers, asking the right questions helps the market to be more sustainable, therefore that’s the unique power that every consumer has. As they say: “we vote with our money.”

Where do you see your industry is heading to? What is the future of jewelry and where do you see yourself in this future?

As the social structure changes with time, we are all headed towards a different direction towards a lifestyle-oriented future. As I personally have a positive mindset, I like to think we are all getting more socially aware as well as environmentally conscious. The process is certainly gradual, but it is well underway.

As a jeweler that makes wedding rings and custom pieces, I see more people who respect and support independent jewelers, especially the ones that follow a more ethical production process. There is a lot to be done, but with a supporting community, we shall all be making an impact in due time.

What is your advice to parents and kids who might be considering a career in the jewelry industry, and how might you encourage them to go forward with their dreams?

I was lucky to have a supportive family that really respected my own path. Both of my parents were engineers that worked in different fields. Born in the 60s in rural China, they were lucky to have me in a big city like Beijing, but neither of them were in touch with the art or design field. That makes my own career path something brand new to the family. All three of us worked very hard, with me following my dream path, and my loving parents trying to not only understand but also provide unconditional support.

Jewelry design might sounds nice and pretty, but when you dig into it, there’s a lot more in the industry that might be obscured and that one needs to be aware of; for instance, one carat of diamond needs 250 tons of digging into the earth, with further cultural sacrifices in the mining area. Additionally, hard ground mining like gold mines will create acid chemical waste that leaves a drying ground. And I am sure jewelry is not the only such harmful industry.  Every industry has its own ethics and things that are to be found and discussed.

There’s never a straight path towards finding a perfect solution to such problems. This is the time to fully explore alternatives. And not only think of the responsibility we have to the future generations but to the ones that came before. Learn from their mistakes while teaching the future generations of a better way.

What is your all-time inspiration for your work?

Culture and art from history. Recently, I really got into the Indian royal objects from the 1800s. I like to keep a sketch book and sketch out objects found on streets, shops, and museums to have a better understanding of the maker’s creative process.

Photos: Courtesy of Yushan Sun

It’s amazing what beauty you can find in the old, abandoned, and forgotten. In a world where sustainable living is increasingly on the agenda, small but purposeful trash-to-treasure projects in the home can limit waste and provide a creative outlet for you and the whole family to enjoy.

The eco-friendly benefits of upcycling are vast. Aside from minimizing the volume of rejected and discarded materials being sent to the landfill every year, it also reduces the need for producing items using new or raw materials. This can help put an end to the repeated consuming and dumping cycle of many households.

Upcycling and reusing objects and materials can actually lead to a reduction in air pollution, water pollution (have you seen our oceans, rapidly transforming into seas of plastic?), greenhouse gas emissions, and can also support the conservation of global resources.

If all that eco-conscious talk isn’t enough to get you repurposing your old hangers into kitchen towel hooks, then reflecting on all the fun that is to be had might help. Thinking outside the box can produce some seriously impressive transformations of everyday items you were just about to throw out or happen to adopt and save from the waste heap. Taking someone’s trash and making it your treasure not only happens to be a tried and tested way to be proactive in your eco-friendly endeavors but is also the making of a fulfilling craft project.

I started my upcycle project with a walk and foraging expedition through the hutongs. You will be amazed at what you can find lying around in these ancient residential alleyways and lanes. I wanted to find raw materials, like wood or stone that speaks to the beauty of the natural world around us, and use it in a repurposed fashion inside the home. With the help and company of my like-minded colleague, I put on some layers, braved the cold, and went on a hutong hunt.

Not even thirty minutes into our walk through the southern parts of Beijing’s hutongs, we came across a lonely wooden trunk sitting outside a couple’s home and place of business. The trunk was keeping a heavy potted plant sturdy and was covered in dust. My colleague kindly took the lead and knocked on the door. A brief conversation in Chinese ensued, as the looks on the couple’s faces transitioned from bemusement to unexpected curiosity, and finally excitement.

What could this foreigner possibly want with this old thing? I suspected was the first unspoken thought that came over their minds. The couple left behind what they were doing inside and joined us outside in the cold to talk money. They explained that the trunk was once used to store clothing and is made from real wood with brass latches. They then told us we could have it for RMB 50. Hiding my absolute elation at this complete and utter bargain, I agreed and a quick WeChat transfer followed.

I disdain stereotypes like any other, but we Brits do love a bargain, and the only thing we love more than a bargain has got to be walking away with freebies! A walk through the hutongs for upcycle projects, will not always lead to a monetary transaction. We came across a number of friendly locals who had heaps of discarded trash on their doorsteps ready to be transformed into treasure, and given away for free. Just before finding the trunk, I spotted a beautifully ornate vintage iron table with a stone top. If it were not for the conundrum of how I would get it home in one piece, this article would be about two upcycling projects instead of one!

Not only did I serendipitously come across the find of my dreams, allowing yourself to be open to new discoveries is the ultimate way to meet new people and gain insight into worlds other than your own.

Before we took my prize home to lovingly transform, a man approached us outside what we thought was a salvage-yard style storefront. He showed us some beautifully handcrafted jewelry pieces he said he had made, just before inviting us into his home for the best coffee I have tasted in this city. Mr. Wei is an artist and in true ‘star-aligning’ fashion, spent the afternoon sharing with us how he takes raw materials, like stone and wood, and transforms them into pieces of art, jewelry, and everyday items. Unfortunately, Mr. Wei had nothing that was for sale, as he too is a hutong forager, collecting materials and breathing new life into old things.

The task at hand when I got home was bigger than I had originally thought, but was worth every moment. After petitioning friends to help me sand down the wooden trunk, I roped in the beautiful Scott family to help with my upcycle project. Remember that friends and family can, and I would argue should, be a part of your upcycling journeys.

It took several days to sand down the trunk; remember to research what kind of sandpaper you need, as they come in different grades; use wooden blocks where possible, and use something to protect your flooring. After the sanding was complete, I used a white grain filler, to fill the cracks and accentuate the natural grain pattern in the wood. Rather than add paint, varnish or wax, I chose a rub-in oil, which added a natural sheen and celebrated the wood and all its raw elements. Rub-in oils are easy to use and simple to apply. Just rub in! Use Tung oil or linseed oil; allow the oil to penetrate the wood, and then wipe off the excess.  They naturally dry or cure on their own and leave a “natural” wood finish.

My wooden trunk is now a low-sitting coffee table. I dressed it using organic cotton and vintage tealight holders. I think it makes a wonderful addition to our living space, and can be used as an ornamental feature or more practically to pour and serve tea or play a board game. The trunk doubles up as a storage box, and is definitely a true trash-to-treasure piece.

Get upcycling, encourage friends to donate rather than chuck out items and materials, and actively look for pieces inside and outside the home that you could creatively transform. Partner your project with crafting family and friend days; share a bottle of wine; get the kids to muck in; and get repurposing, reusing, and rejoicing! Tea anyone?

This article first appeared in the beijingkids March 2019 Sustainability issue.
Photos: Nicole Bonnah