Like many Beijingers who chose to go abroad for Spring Festival, when news broke that the holiday would be extended until Feb 3, I was quick to pick up the phone and start adding dates to my hotel and looking for later flights, eager to bask in the partly-cloudy warmth of Hanoi’s tropical grandeur just a little bit longer. After all, due to the virus, a majority of airlines and third-party bookers were offering liberal cancellation policies, and given that life in the People’s Republic had all but ground to a halt, it seemed like a natural choice.

We decided to rebook our flight from Jan 30 to Feb 2 and made the necessary arrangements at our hotel. For all the misfortune and tragic loss of life now spreading across the globe daily, it felt like a sliver of silver lining.

For the next few days, my girlfriend and I explored Hanoi, walking along Long Bien Bridge and gorging ourselves on Bahn mi in the Old Quarter, blissfully unaware of what awaited us.

As each day passed, we watched airlines begin suspending and canceling flights into and out of China. What started out as big names in the West like Lufthansa and United quickly snowballed into an all-encompassing moratorium on any air travel to our adopted home.

We had told ourselves that while the big airlines were acting out of an abundance of caution, surely those Asia-based ones who make so much of their money via the Chinese tourism industry would continue to operate uninterrupted. Unfortunately, we were wrong.    

And so it was that on Feb 1 around 9 pm, less than 24 hours before we were to leave for the airport, the dreaded email hit our inbox: Your Vietnam Airlines flight has been canceled.

As we began browsing flights, it became devastatingly clear that everything was either cancelled or sold out. Some options presented themselves, many of which included layovers in Hong Kong, however given the unpredictable nature of the situation, coupled with the fact that Hong Kong is not the cheapest city in the world, we couldn’t run the risk of getting stranded there for an indefinite amount of time.

Moreover, as I didn’t have my laptop with me, I was unable to get any work done, and I felt helpless and useless as I watched my beijingkids colleagues work tirelessly to keep our readers informed of the news. I wanted to be back, doing my part to help the community on the ground.

When it was all said and done, after about four hours of seemingly endless searching, website refreshing, and phone calls that went nowhere, we were able to book two seats on a flight with a six-hour layover in Chiang Mai, Thailand (figuring it a cheaper place to get stranded, should that happen), culminating in a nearly 13-hour journey.

While I escaped this conundrum with nothing more than a slight headache and a belly full of frustration, other folks have been finding themselves in a significantly more convoluted and compromising situation.

Marta Smith, a teacher at YueCheng Courtyard Kindergarten was visiting family back home in Portugal when she had not one, but two flights canceled on her. To make matters worse, her husband and two boys had not made the trip to Portugal, meaning she watched from afar as news about the coronavirus continued to spiral, and she found herself stranded across the globe.

“My Lufthansa flight (original flight) was canceled and then I booked a flight with Turkish Airlines,” Smith tells beijingkids. “The following day I received an email saying that they [Turkish Airlines] had also suspended all flights to Beijing.” Deciding to take matters into her own hands, Smith went to the local airport to seek a refund from Turkish Airlines and see what Lufthansa could offer.

“[Lufthansa] said they could get me on an Air China flight the following day if I wanted,” explains Smith. “Although they recommended not to travel, I accepted the opportunity to return home to Beijing.”

When asked if she ever considered staying put in Portugal, Smith says that, “I did ponder getting the rest of the family out to Portugal too, but I thought the media was hyping the situation and felt comfortable returning.”

All told, Smith is happy to be back in Beijing with her family. “It’s a little weird seeing the streets so empty and having your temperature checked everywhere, but I completely understand the precaution and value that this is taking place.”

As for the narratives and rumors swirling around the coronavirus, Smith explains, “I think that it is unfortunate that overseas media has really elaborated this issue to an unnecessary level. We don’t see numbers of recovered patients for example in the news, it’s all negative. We don’t see comparisons of numbers of deaths from pneumonia or flu. I believe this would calm the whole situation.”

Photos: Southernliving.com, Drew Pittock, courtesy of Marta Smith

Fall is just around the corner and with fall comes the highly anticipated Golden Week, which begins with China’s National Day on October 1 and continues for the rest of the working week.

While most of us are usually out of town during this time anyway, this year we have some added incentive to get out and seek adventure. The week-long holiday also happens to coincide with the 70th Anniversary of the People’s Republic of China.

Before you consume yourself with excitement for our host country, this holiday also means that much of the capital will be on lockdown as the city prepares for a series of events to celebrate this momentous occasion. The most notable of these is a massive military parade down Chang’an Jie on Oct 1. This event usually results in roads, subways, and many businesses around the city being closed not only on the day of the parade, but periodically in the weeks leading up to it for rehearsals.

So, unless you don’t mind sitting indoors for a majority of the week, then it’s probably best to start planning your escape now. This can be somewhere else in Asia (Bali sounds delightful!), any other city in China, or even back home to visit the fam. But don’t stay here expecting to carry on with your regular day-to-day routine or knock out some items on your Beijing bucket list.

For the last major military parade marking the 70th Anniversary of the War of Aggression Victory Day, there were road restrictions, numerous restrictions on various modes of transport and license plates, and forced closures of bars and restaurants around the city. More info can be found out about that here.

While we can’t confirm if the situation will be the same as we experienced back in Aug-Sep, 2015, steps are already being made to get the capital parade-ready. These efforts will only be made more visible in the weeks to come. So, brace yourselves for impact, and start making travel plans now.

Photo: Wikimedia

Spreading out all over Beijing like an aggressive fungus is a petite store called Miniso: the Holy Grail of Scrooges, and the lord and savior of broke people. Whether you are a penniless teenager, or have simply already spent all your earnings on impulse purchases you don´t need (shame on you), Miniso is here to save us all! 

Now that it´s summer, there is no time like the present to head on down to Miniso to check out the new summer collection. So, grab that lonesome RMB 50 you have left, or are willing to spend, and come shopping with us.

Water Bottles 

Always stay hydrated with these cool water bottles. Whether you like Sesame Street, Pink Panther, or strange little yellow chickens, these water bottles are the right purchase for you. There are various prints to choose from, so even if you prefer plain bottles (why would you though? Pink Panther is awesome!), you can get your hands on one of these beauties. RMB 15-19.90 

Lunch Box 

Need a new lunch box to go with that bottle? Transport your snacks in style with this sassy bear-print container. There is something for everyone with a range of colors to select from. No matter what your choice of snack, be it fruit or chips, (I see you, but same bro), this box will always keep your selection fresh! RMB 10 

Sunscreen 

Get ready for the summer and take care of all the family’s skin needs this season with these affordable sunscreens. Apply generously, protect your skin, and don’t burn up under the hot sun. Save yourselves some renminbi and grab this bargain. RMB 39.9 

Mosquito Repellent 

As important as sunscreen is mosquito repellent. Don’t get stung this summer! Avoid squealing kids, itchy bumps, scratching, and scarring. You and the family don’t need the stress. Use these sprays to fend those pesky mites without breaking the bank. It is always better to be safe than sorry. RMB 15 

Fans 

Miniso has a wide selection of fans to choose from. If you fancy having a bit of fun with your fan purchase, you will be spoiled for choice. If it’s not already hot enough for you, go for one with the cheeky devil horns or get cute and grab yourself the one with the attached bear ears. Plain Jane? There are a ton of more simple designs to select. Acquire a fresh breeze and stay cool. RMB 49.9  

Flip-flops  

Beijing always has very hot summers. You and the family can avoid stifled feet and smelly odors by trading in your sneakers for a pair of flip-flops with a cool print and plenty of wriggle room. Trust me, there is nothing worse than sweaty feet for you or the kids. Get summer ready and sport a beach-in-the-city look! RMB19.9 

Sunglasses 

Always stay cool with these awesome sunglasses. Protect your eyes from dangerous ultraviolet rays (yes, we love the sun, but we need to be careful), and please the inner diva in your kids with these fun and daring sunglasses. All this fierceness for mere pocket change. RMB 10 

Hats 

What are a pair of awesome sunglasses without an awesome bucket hat? Protect the family from heat stroke with a very fashionable clothing item. With so much choice the only problem to be concerned with is which one to get!  So, get choosing one, (or two, or three, darn it! – I want to have them all!). RMB 35 

Goggles 

I´ll tell you what you don´t want to happen under any circumstances. Remember trying your best to avoid getting soap into your little ones’ eyes during bath time? The same can be said for wanting to protect your kids’ eyes from chlorine when swimming. Avoid irritable eyes and strops by the pool. Don’t let anything get in the way of your swimming time, and don a pair of these goggles. RMB 19.9 

Bags 

I wonder where all your new purchases will go? How will you ever carry them all home? I have the answer – one of these funky rucksacks! You have a variety to choose from and they are all perfect for a nice day at the pool or beach. RMB 29.90 

And that’s a wrap, ladies and gentlemen. Get your Miniso on this summer and walk away with nothing but awesome bargains. Deck out you and the kids for next to nothing and spread the word. Your friends will thank you!  

Photos: Lian Sossdorf, Pixabay

My family and I will be jetting off to a destination wedding in the New Year and have toyed with the idea of making arrangements for our ayi to join us. She has been with us for almost a year and the extra help on what will be our first vacation in a long while and the biggest celebration for our close friends will be invaluable.

Taking an ayi on vacation with you and the family is, of course, a luxury and could potentially be costly, however, you will need to weigh up the disadvantages and advantages of doing so. Having an ayi in Beijing is a relatively affordable luxury for most families, who in their home countries would be shelling out above the odds for private childcare or domestic assistance around the home. Taking your ayi away on a short break with the family may also be comparatively affordable and if planned could be a worthwhile investment.

You may have already had the privilege of taking your ayi away with you to help with the kids and provide ample opportunities to have some adult time while on your break, however for those of you who are not sure where to begin, these handy tips will make a world of difference when planning your wanderlust trip with the family and ayi.

#1 Passport

Like many others, my ayi has never traveled outside of China and therefore has no passport. If you would like your ayi to join you on your vacation ensure that you are responsible for either purchasing or renewing her passport in time to travel. A Chinese passport costs RMB160 and is usually obtained at the Exit and Entry Administration (EEA) of the Ministry of Public Security. It will take approximately 10 business days for the passport to be processed and your ayi will need their ID card, two passport-sized photos, and a filled-out application form.

 #2 Visa

You will also be responsible for purchasing the correct visa for your ayi. Make sure to read the guidelines pertaining to visa laws for Chinese nationals in the country you intend to travel to. Your best bet is to first check out the Chinese Government website and then the government website of the country you are traveling to. Your ayi will have to make a trip to the respective embassy of your destination in Beijing and bring the following documents:

• A passport or valid travel document
• Complete the application form with a passport-sized photo (The embassy or consulate should have copies)
• Proof of Financial Capacity (A bank statement and Letter from you should suffice)
• Fee

In most cases, you may be able to use a Chinese travel agency or the online platform Taobao to use a ‘Flying Pig Tour’ or C-trip agent who can process the visa you need with little hassle. Make sure to use a credited agency and the documents stated above will still be needed. 

#3 Ask your ayi to travel light

If you’re thinking about taking your ayi on your family vacation, it’s no doubt because you are trying to make life easier for yourself. From packing, checking into your flight, finding the right gate, settling baby or little ones for a flight, collecting luggage, and traveling around when landed, will all require the help of your ayi. Literally the less baggage you have the lighter the load will be for the whole experience. Ask the ayi to travel light, so you don’t have to!

#4 Decide on a budget for your ayi

My ayi doesn’t need much and incredibly she can stretch a month’s allowance for household items to the extreme maximum. Your ayi won’t need much on vacation either, but it’s unlikely that she will be around the family 24 hours a day. She will need rest and recreational time too. Will your ayi be responsible for her own purchases outside of her working hours? And what budget can you set aside for not just her accommodation needs, but for food and beverages, when she is looking after the little ones? Think about it, discuss it with your ayi, and start packing!

#5 Be clear about expectations

Every family has different needs and your decision to take your ayi on your family vacation is a very personal one to meet very personal requirements. Whatever these requirements are, make them clear to your ayi. Think about the following:

• How many hours a day will you need your ayi?
• Is your ayi required during the day or evenings or both? (How will you split up her working day while away?)
• At what rate will you pay over time?
• Find out how your ayi feels about occupying her free time when not with the family and offer suggestions

#6 Insurance

Every family should have full insurance when holidaying. Better safe than sorry. Find out if your ayi can be added to your insurance package for a small fee or look into insurance options that provide packages for additional persons traveling with you. If taking the ayi on any trips or excursions, make sure she is also fully insured for those trips, especially if additional cover is needed depending on the activity.

#7 Have Fun!

This one goes without saying right?

Images: Pexels

My husband and I are planning our first trip home with our little one who will turn 10 months old this month. I had no idea how to prepare, what to bring, what to do or what not to do for our first time flying with our son. Apart from arriving at the airport at least two hours in advance to make sure you’re not late for your flight, there are a few other tips that can make life traveling with a mini-globe-trotter a lot easier.

Pack light
Fortunately for hubby and I, we have spent the best part of our five years abroad traveling around Asia, and after my second attempt at bringing those just-in-case shoe and clothing options on our backpacking expeditions, I learned that less is definitely more.

Traveling with a baby makes me feel like this would be difficult to achieve because a baby needs so much right? However, after taking my little one hiking a few times, I realize that some of the most challenging activities can be done without bringing a whole trunk full of diapers, blankets, muslins, and clothes. I will pack just as I pack for one our hikes: keep it to a minimum and only bring essentials. Smaller items like more packs of baby wipes and creams can be bought on arrival. If your family is anything like mine, they’ll already have more than enough items for baby ready and waiting.

Only bring one carry-on item
Make the load lighter and ditch the extra bag or purse that you can bring as carry-on. When I take my little one out, I always ensure that I only have one item to keep an eye on and carry. Make it easier on yourself, and only take your baby’s diaper bag on board. You will be less likely to forget things and no doubt will appreciate carrying less weight with baby in tow.

Wear your baby
I was encouraged to do this very early on and when I can avoid using our buggy, I will. Use a baby wrap or carrier to make the whole checking in and boarding process much easier. If you can, check in the stroller, and try to use a travel-light, foldable pushchair. You can wheel it around with ease and quickly unfold when ready to use it on the other side.

Look for signs that help you
I have often seen separate boarding queues for families at airports. Babies and young children are a sure way to get through the security check quickly and bypass the exhausting wait. If like me you’re traveling with an infant under two, then your little one with not only be flying for free but will get to go on the plane first.

Dress easy and nurse
Forget kitting baby out in brand new fancy gear for his first flight! Try not to dress your little one in booties or shoes, they will have to come off several times during security checks. Don’t wear a belt or lace-up shoes as these will also have to come off at security and this becomes a challenge if you happen to be wearing your baby. The same goes for big coats and unnecessary layers. Dressing easy will also come in handy when you need to nurse. Nurse or let your baby suck on something to avoid any issues with the sudden pressure changes on your flight. You can do this as frequently as needed during the duration of the flight.

Call ahead to ask for a baby sleeper
Most flight carriers will provide a baby bassinet for your journey, however, this usually has to be requested. Call ahead in advance of your flight and let your requests be known; these could also include an aisle seat or more seat with plenty of legroom. Usually, reputable flight carriers will be accommodating but also note that there are no guarantees on the day. Access to a baby bassinet will depend on availability. Most of all, sit back, relax, and try to enjoy!

Photo: Pixabay

Listening to Christmas carols might still elicit warm fuzzy feelings of home and the urge to make mulled wine for a lot of us #LoudAndProudSuckersForChristmas, but not everybody looks forward to flying for 20 hours to get home just to mush around in tepid gray or non-existent snow. There are plenty for whom the winter holidays are simply a great excuse to go traveling, and it’s for these folks that we’ve rounded up a few destinations with reasonable ticket prices that are sure to make your holiday season jolly.

Tokyo, Japan

When? Dec 23/24/25-Jan 2/3
How much? RMB 2,400-3,400
With who? Japan Airlines, ANA

Tokyo might not be the first place you’d equate as the Christmas Town of Tim Burton’s fantasies, but the Japanese sure get into the holiday spirit. Proof: the unending holiday lights around Tokyo Station, Roppongi, or Odaiba. Whether you’re looking for a romantic getaway, wish to partake in Japan’s traditional KFC Christmas dinner, or go on a shopping spree for the country’s infamously quirky goods – ’tis your time to shine in Tokyo!

Read more ideas on where to go, eat, and do in the East Capital here.

Singapore

When? Dec 22-Jan 1/2
How much? RMB 2,100-3,500
With who? Air China, Singapore Airlines

Like a lot of other capital cities, Singapore is all about food, food, and food – perfect to satisfy the unbridled consumption that the holiday season beckons for. And what better way to get your fill than to saunter down to the balmy climes of Singapore, where Indian, Malaysian, and Chinese cuisines melt together for a truly delicious gustatory experience.

Check out our guide to the best eats in Singapore here.

Taipei, Taiwan 

When? Dec 24-Jan 3
How much? RMB 1,700-2,400 
With who? Eva Air, China Airlines, Cathay Pacific

Also a foodie haven in its own right, Taipei has rolled out some great flight deals this Christmas season. If it’s not food you’re after, the city also boasts some great hiking options. After all, it’s all about balance!

Scavenge for Taipei travel tips here.

Bangkok, Thailand

When? Dec 24-Jan 3
How much? Approx. RMB 2,500
With who? Thai Airways, China Eastern

As the hub of Southeast Asia, and the start or the end of many journeys, Bangkok is nothing less than overwhelming. A city buzzing with food and nightlife, as well as temples galore, and even beaches further afield, one of the great things about Bangkok is that you can pretty much just pitch up and wing it.

Read our guide to the vibrant sights of Bangkok here.

Vientiane, Laos

When? Dec 24/27-Jan 1/2
How much? RMB 2,300-2,450
With who? China Eastern Airlines

Did we hear “affordable spas”? The relaxed riverside capital of Vientiane in Laos is a place full of legends and history set among tree-lined alleys and a touch of French architecture. Best yet – and this is a big plus for Beijingers – Vientiane is a beautiful city to explore by foot.

Los Angeles, USA

When? Dec 24-Jan 2
How much? RMB 3,588-3,961 (direct)
With who? American Airlines, Air China

Fancy getting out of Asia entirely? Free up an extra thousand in Maos and head to LA instead, the home of bright lights, movies, picture-pretty passersby, and gigantic burgers. Be warned, however, that you might get talent-scouted while strolling down Hollywood Boulevard and leave your Beijing life behind forever.

Not what you’re looking for? Check out all our handy travel guides, right here.

More by this author here.
Email: tautviledaugelaite@thebeijinger.com

Images: Bustle, Truly Tokyo, Wikimedia Commons, Arcadis, World Wanderista, Asia Exchange

If you haven’t yet made your escape from Beijing, hunker down: getting in and out of the city will be extremely busy this upcoming Labor Day holiday (Apr 29-May 1) when large crowds and multiple traffic controls are poised to make it the city’s busiest May long weekend in history.

Saturday’s evening rush hour traffic is expected to be Beijing’s busiest of the year. The long weekend will see local traffic volume increase by 10-12 percent to 1.21-1.23 million vehicles as 620,000 cars enter the city to displace the 610,000 cars that are trying to leave.

Meanwhile, with passenger flow expected to jump to 549,000 on the first day of the holiday, an additional 18 trains have been booked for Beijing Railway Station. To help alleviate the crowds, subway service leaving Beijing South Railway Station on Line 4 will be extended 30 minutes to 11.45pm from Saturday, Apr 28 to Tuesday, May 1.

Tian’anmen Square and its daily flag raising ceremony have always been some of Beijing’s most popular tourist attractions during Labor Day, but getting there will be a problem as the city shuts down all local transportation to the area.

From midnight of Apr 28 to midnight May 1, Beijing Metro subway stations Tian’anmen East and Tian’anmen West on Line 1 will be closed to the public as will Qianmen Station on Line 2. During the same time, eight surface bus routes that normally pass through Tian’anmen will be temporarily re-routed while other busses will not make their regular stops in the area. This is because the traffic around Tian’anmen Square will be banned, preventing all vehicles from entering the area.

May holiday or not, this weekend is going to be popular at any rate as temperatures are forecast to hit daytime highs of 30 degrees Celsius. But those wishing to enjoy the great outdoors of Beijing’s many parks are advised that they will be extremely busy: due to popular demand, 11 of Beijing’s parks and horticultural gardens are offering admission tickets for sale online.

Whatever you do this Labor Day holiday, please keep in mind that certain hospitals won’t be open during the break. In Chaoyang District, the cancer ward of the China Medical Science Academy will be closed all three days of the holiday while the Beijing Obstetrics and Gynecology Hospital of the Capital Medical University will be closed on Monday (a full chart of closures can be found here, in Chinese).

If you’re still not sure what to do, just make sure you’re not stuck in any of these following city locations during Saturday’s crazy evening rush hour (highlighted in red):

More stories from this author here.

E-Mail: charlesliu1 (at) qq (dot) com
Twitter: @Sinopath

Images: Weibo

On my travels, I’ve sung “God Save the Queen” as payment for wasabi vodka in the Nevada desert, stroked crocodiles in The Gambia, seen the world’s oldest vine in Slovenia, and toured the Wuyuan Museum of Stones That Look Like Food. However, Korea’s Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is without doubt the strangest tourist attraction I have ever visited. Because, for all the cafes and souvenir stalls along its well-trodden routes, it is an actual war zone.

The Korean War ended in a ceasefire in 1953, but no peace treaty was ever concluded. So North and South are still technically at war, and if you believe it is only than a technicality then a visit to the DMZ will soon put you straight. The border, essentially the front line at the moment the war ended, is frozen in time, a Cold War flashpoint of barbed wire and minefields.

Yet bizarrely, a whole industry has grown up around it, with regular coachloads of tourists being bussed out to look out across No Man’s Land to the Potemkin villages of North Korea. If it sounds like I am approaching this subject with undue levity, then disbelieving laughter is an unavoidable reaction to the oddity of the situation. After a couple of days in prosperous, peaceful, creative Seoul, to realize that the goose-stepping army of a dangerous dictator is waiting only 35 miles away with loaded guns is hard to process. Setting off on a coach trip to see it ramps up the weirdness still further.

If you want to see it for yourself, you’ll need to go on an escorted trip, as access to the area is (understandably) tightly controlled. There are two levels of access: trips to the Joint Security Area, the compound at the heart of the DMZ where the two sides meet, and where you can step over into North Korea, are only run by the US military. These trips are not suitable for children under 11, and need to be booked several days in advance. This option was not available at the time we visited in any case, with “military maneuvers” given as the reason, but the current diplomatic tensions no doubt also a factor.

However there is a less nerve-racking, but scarcely less fascinating, route. This begins at the Freedom Bridge, where prisoners were exchanged after the ceasefire. You can also see a railway engine, riddled with bullet holes and derailed by bombs at the outbreak of the war, which then remained in place for many years as the war raged around it, before being preserved as a memorial.

The next stop is the Third Tunnel, one of five dug by North Korean troops under the DMZ so that they could bypass the South’s defenses and launch a surprise attack. That is to say, five which have been found; South Koreans believe there are other tunnels which they haven’t yet discovered. It’s a long walk down to the tunnel itself, and even with the crowds of tourists it’s eerie to be walking along the low, dark, passageway, to the triple sealed concrete barrier at the border itself.

Mount Dora Observatory offers a platform with coin-operated binoculars where you can peer across to North Korea. (Make sure you have plenty of KRW 500 coins so you have time to look properly!) On the northern side are model villages where nobody actually lives, and rather poignantly a factory run jointly by the two Koreas during the “Sunshine Policy” period, now closed indefinitely. There’s also a tragicomic note: the two countries competed to have the tallest flagpole and the biggest flag flying over the DMZ. North Korea eventually won with a 160 meter pole, at the time the world’s tallest, carrying a flag which weighs over a quarter of a tonne, and has to be held up with rods as it’s too heavy to fly in the wind.

The final stop is the most poignant of all. From 1998 to 2008, South Korea adopted a policy of offering financial support to its northern neighbor, the so-called “Sunshine Policy”. During this period of detente they built a huge railway terminal near the DMZ, in anticipation of the reopening of the border. The building still waits, maintained now more in hope than in expectation, with its pristine customs and immigration facilities standing empty. You can buy a ticket to walk onto the deserted platform, and see the maps showing the dream of direct train travel from Seoul to London.

Viewing all this as a tourist may seem ghoulish, but the South Korean authorities are keen to encourage visitors, and not only to boost the local economy. Every exhibition is designed to drive home the point that the threat to South Korea is real and present, and in fact is greater now than it has been for many years. In the tunnel they are at pains to point out the evidence that it really was dug by the North Koreans, who claim the South built it themselves as a propaganda tool. It might be helpful, I mused, for certain western politicians to see it for themselves, so they understand what’s at stake on the Korean peninsula.

Tours are widely available from a number of websites and offices, although they all feed a couple of providers who run the actual tours themselves, so prices are more or less uniform. Expect to pay KRW 50,000-60,000 per person.

Photos: Andrew Killeen

After a calming start to our Korean trip in historic Buyeo, we headed to the seaside. Daecheon is home to a famous Mud Festival, which attracts backpackers and hedonists from across the globe. There’s also a Mud Museum, but sadly (or fortunately, from our kids’ point of view) it was closed when we visited in early April. In fact nearly everything was closed, and while the weather was warm, and the beach beautifully clean and empty, the water was icy cold.

So after two nights in Daecheon we headed for Seoul. Despite lying at the heart of the world’s fifth largest conurbation, South Korea’s capital has a surprisingly laid-back feel. Our first day there was mostly spent trying to locate one of the old royal palaces. Instead, we got lost and instead had a fantastic time wandering at random around the painted streets of Ihwa-Dong, eating ice cream and admiring the murals.

We accidentally stumbled on a tiny museum with a remarkable collection of kkoktu, traditional wooden carvings made for funerals. This might sound morbid, but the little figurines were vibrant with life and color. Designed to accompany the dead on their journey to the afterlife, they include not only soldiers for protection and caregivers to comfort the departed, but also entertainers: clowns, acrobats and musicians.

Afterwards we came upon a park perched halfway up a mountain. It appeared small, but as we explored further into its winding paths and hidden ponds we found ourselves going higher and higher among the trees. We tried to reach the top, but every apparent crest just revealed another climb ahead. The quiet was broken only by cheers from below (a tennis match, we discovered later), and it was almost impossible to believe we were in the middle of a city of twenty-five million people.

We stayed at Mr. Comma’s Guesthouse, a backpacker hostel in the student district. We’ve often found hostels to be an affordable option when traveling as a family on a budget. For less than the cost of two different rooms in a hotel, we had effectively an entire apartment to ourselves; and the boys loved playing with the dog.

The city’s ancient palaces are of course worth visiting, but our final day in Seoul was spent on one of the strangest day trips I have ever experienced. That however requires a whole post of its own.

Photos: Andrew Killeen, Karen Killeen