Every autumn, hordes of eager tourists descend upon Fragrant Hills (Xiangshan) Park to take in the blushing maple, smoke, and sweet gum trees. Take heart: there’s plenty to see in the park’s 395 acres besides Incense Burner Peak (Xianglu Feng), named for two rocky outcroppings that (very) vaguely resemble incense burners. Lace up your hiking shoes and head to the northwest of Beijing to explore the various temples, pavilions, and lakes. For a more rewarding experience, drop in on a weekday to avoid the swarms of visitors.

Kick start your day by heading to the Fragrant Hills branch of Sculpting in Time Cafe (1). This airy coffeehouse offers soups, sandwiches, pastas,
salads, breakfast, and coffee. The blonde wood accents, billowing white drapes, and roaming cats come straight out of a vacation postcard. Take your cup of joe to the second floor patio for an expansive view of the mountains.

Enter through the East Gate (2) of Fragrant Hills Park. There, a path branches out into two major routes: north and south. The southern path, which snakes through the park, is more challenging as it ends in a two-hour hike to the peak, Xianglu Feng. Along the way, visitors can see Shuangqing Villa (Mao Zedong’s former residence) and the ruins of Fragrant Hills Temple.

The northern path leads to the Chairlift Station (3) and is better suited to families with strollers or small children. There’s a Chinese restaurant called Songling Canting on the way up; otherwise, the park’s numerous food stalls sell the usual fangbian mian and soft drinks. Zhao Miao, or Bright Temple, the park’s Tibetan-style lamasery, is currently closed for repairs.

Be forewarned: the RMB 50 price tag is good for one way up the chairlift only. Once you ascend the 557m to Xianglu Feng, you’ll either have to fork out another 50 kuai or walk down. That said, the views from the chairlift are breathtaking. On a clear day, you can see all across Fragrant Hills’ western slope and beyond to Beijing’s skyline.

Here is more about what to expect.

Photos: Sijia Chen

After hours of combing through our archives, we feature some places worth a visit over the holiday period to get the most out of Beijing before the cold has us shuddering at the thought of having to go outside. These place are action packed and hopefully the weather and air quality index permit a day out. Avoid the crowds at places like Tiananmen as even walking 200 meters will take an eternity.

Enormous not only in size, but also in educational fun, the China Science and Technology Museum 中国科技馆 will satisfy the thinker in children and adults alike. You can easily spend up an afternoon walking through four themed floors and nine different galleries. Once you’ve had your fill of the museum itself, check out the massive children’s play center  Science Paradise. Containing countless hands-on exhibits and displays, the museum provides children with a healthy mix of information and entertainment that will leave them wanting to know more. Mind-boggling exhibits and topics on the third and fourth floors can even kindle the Einstein in parents as well. Perfect on cold and dreary winter’s day, the museum is a fun indoor haven for the whole family.

After emerging from the Olympic Green subway exit (Line 8), make your way northeast through the Olympic Green park towards the museum, a rectangular white building. The west entrance of the China Science and Technology Museum lies just off Datun Beilu. Purchase your tickets at the outdoor ticket booth or opt for the automated ticket machines (in Chinese only) once you enter through the main door. If you have young children, make note of the neon sign reading “Science Paradise” to your left, as you may want to return to this immense play center later.

he busiest gallery in the museum is The Glory of China (1). Check out ancient Chinese technological innovations, taking in the technology of looms, plows, iron casting and more. Kids can turn a life-size waterwheel and watch the powerful effects. While en route,  admire the sailing ship commandeered by legendary Chinese admiral Zheng He. Take the small wooden set of stairs adjacent to the ship up to the traditional Chinese medicine exhibit. There, inspect models of diseased tongues and acupuncture charts. Head back down the stairs and keep looping around the circular path to discover the astronomy exhibit, where kids can gaze upon the stars. After fulfilling their astronomical aspirations, head to the age of ancient scientific exploration. Experiment with Pascal’s Triangle, Tangram puzzles, and blocks. Don’t spend too much time puzzling these conundrums though, as you have three more floors to scale.

Continue to find out what’s in store you here.

Check out the museum’s cinema review here.

Photo: Oscar Holland

After hours of combing through our archives, we feature some places worth a visit over the holiday period to get the most out of Beijing before the cold has us shuddering at the thought of having to go outside. These places are action packed and hopefully the weather and air quality index permit a day out. Avoid the crowds at places like Tiananmen as even walking 200 meters will take an eternity.

In Wangfujing, you can purchase anything from writhing, skewered scorpions to glowing ivory tusks carved into fine, silky ribbons of light. Here, Buddhist monks walk in clusters past poetic logos in French and Italian. Among shops like Gucci and Cartier, sink your teeth into candied hawthorn. Though shopping is clearly the main attraction here, Wangfujing is also rich in history, culture, and fun things to do.

Wangfujing has its own subway stop at the southern end of Wangfujing Dajie by the Malls at the Oriental Plaza. From the subway stop, head north along Wangfujing Dajie until you reach St. Joseph’s Cathedral (1) between Baishu and Ganyu Hutong. This beautiful church has been torn down and rebuilt countless times, and it is one of the few rare historic churches that remain in Beijing. Its small outdoor square is often an unofficial stage for aspiring hip-hop dancers and skateboarders; kids are certainly free to join in the fun. At night, visitors can also admire the floodlights that bathe the church in a soft glow.

Further south on Wangfujing Dajie is the Foreign Bookstore (2), not to be confused with the Wangfujing Bookstore, located on the southern end of the Wangfujing Dajie. Both have an extensive collection of books in English. You can spend hours meandering through the pages of fine literature, children’s classics, picture books, and even music.

At the corner of Wangfujing Dajie and Jinyu Hutong is the Beijing APM mall, which houses clothing stores like Gap, Zara, and Forever 21. If you are interested in browsing the latest computers, tablets, or other glorious technological tools, it is also definitely worth a visit to the Apple Store. At 4,000sqm, this Apple Store is not only the largest in Beijing; it’s supposedly the biggest in all of Asia. Apple fans and techies of all ages will love testing out the latest versions of Apple computers, iPods, iPads, and iPhones.

What to find out more? Here is the full version.

Photos: Lova Li, blogspot.com

Upon hearing the word “hutong,” many expats will automatically think of the areas surrounding Andingmen, Yonghegong, or Gulou Dongdajie. And yet, there’s a quiet stretch of hutongs between Chaoyangmen Neidajie and Dongsishitiao that is also home to authentic siheyuan (courtyard homes), time-honored brands, and lao Beijing restaurants. Dongsi is less developed – but also less gentrified – than its neighbors to the north, making the area ripe for exploration. Dongsi is best seen on foot or by bicycle, with an open mind, lots of time to spare, and a camera on hand. You won’t find many English menus here, so it’s best to brush up on your Mandarin before setting out.

Ease into the day with a dose of culture, courtesy of the National Art Museum of China (1). To get to the museum, take subway Line 5 to Dongsi station (东四地铁站) and get out at exit A. Walk west along Wusi Dajie for about 10 minutes; NAMOC will be on your right. Admission is free, but you’ll have to show a copy of your passport as a form of ID to obtain a ticket.

With 17 exhibition halls spread out over 18,000sqm, you could easily spend the entire day at NAMOC. The main exhibition hall typically features traditional artwork by Chinese artists, including heroic Communist-era paintings, delicate shanshui (literally “mountain and water”) landscapes, and looping calligraphy scrolls. For the most part, abstracts and painting descriptions are in Chinese only.

Once you’ve had your fill of Chinese art, exit the museum and cross Wusi Dajie to pick up some supplies for your own artist-in-residence. There’s a row of art stores offering everything from custom framing to masonite boards. The largest one is called Gehua Baihua (2) and is easily spotted by its red-on-white Chinese sign. You’ll find everything from paintbrushes and paint tubes to plaster busts, origami paper, technical pens, drawing pads, and more.

At this point, you might be feeling a bit peckish. Cross the street again and backtrack east along Wusi Dajie until you reach Meishuguan Dongjie (美术馆东街). Walk north about 80m and take a right on Longfusi Snack Street (3). Like Wangfujing Snack Street, Longfusi has its share of creepy crawlies on a stick, including scorpions, crickets, and starfish. Eschew these novelty snacks in favor of roujiamo (肉夹馍, a Shaanxi snack resembling a mini-burger), lamb skewers, or stir-fried noodles.

After you’ve satisfied your chuan’r craving,walk east along Longfusi Dajie until you reach Dongsi Beidajie (东四北大街), one of the area’s main thoroughfares. A series of narrow lanes branching off this street form the backbone of Dongsi’s hutong network. Running from east to west, they are numbered in ascending order: Dongsi Toutiao (Dongsi First Street), Dongsi Ertiao (Dongsi Second Street), and so forth until Dongsi Shitiao (Dongsi Tenth Street) in the north.

There isn’t much to do from Dongsi Toutiao (东四头条) to Dongsi Santiao (东四三条), but don’t let that stop you from wandering through the hutongs. You’ll glimpse old men playing xiangqi, garlic vendors hawking their wares from flatbed bicycles, old ladies gossiping in the street, and more.

Things get a bit more lively at the western end of Dongsi Sitiao, where you’ll find Chinese restaurants from Yunnan and Shanxi, as well as a couple of Western-style cafes. Near the corner of Dongsi Sitiao and Dongsi Beidajie, you’ll come across venerable Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) pharmacy Yong’antang (4).

Along with Tongrentang, Yong’antang is one of the oldest and most respected pharmacy chains in China. Ask to see their mind-boggling apothecary of TCM ingredients, get the pharmacists to mix up a custom herbal brew, or simply pick up over-the-counter medication for life’s recurrent ills. Though the store keeps regular opening hours, ailing customers can drop by anytime to pick up prescriptions via a window slot.

If you’re hungry, stop by Xian Lao Man (5) on the corner of Dongsi Beidajie and Dongsi Liutiao for some authentic lao Beijing cuisine and some of the best dumplings in the city. There’s a minimum of two liang (两), or five dumplings, per type of filling. For two adults and two children, you’ll probably need about eight liang or 40 dumplings if you don’t order any other dishes. If you like spicy food, Xian Lao Man makes a surprisingly satisfying koushuiji (口水鸡) for RMB 30. The menu is completely in Chinese, and the bill should come up to RMB 100-150 for a family of four.

If you have babies or younger children, it’s worth taking a quick trip across the street to Da Baobei (6). This boutique is packed with cute and affordable clothes for ages 0-5. Most products were unbranded, but some of the pieces looked like factory surplus from Zara and other Western brands. Prices averaged RMB 90-100 for sweaters, RMB 50 for cardigans, and RMB 30 for pajama tops and bottoms.

Just a little further north, you’ll find a shop called Bluehat (7). Don’t be fooled by the name; Bluehat carries products by Kodo Life, the home decoration chain with a flagship store in Nanluogu Xiang. You’ll find the same adorable tea sets, jewelry, canvas bags, vases, flower pots, ceramics, and wooden storage accessories that made the original so popular.

For the last stop of your Dongsi tour, stop by a local laozihao (老字号) or “time-honored” brand Jude Huatian (8). This snack shop is venerated for its lao Beijing desserts, which you can eat on the spot or take away. Kids will love the unhealthy but delicious naiyou zhagao (奶油炸糕), a deep-fried puff pastry dipped in white sugar. At RMB 1.5, it’s easy on the wallet too. There is also twisted mahua (deep-fried twisted dough), ai wowo (glutinous rice balls), and more. After that, getting home is easy as pie; just walk north to the corner of Dongsi Shitiao and Dongsi Beidajie to find Zhangzi Zhonglu (张自忠路) subway station on Line 5.

 Addresses:

National Art Museum of China (NAMOC) 中国美术馆
Daily 9am-5pm (last admission at 4pm). 1 Wusi Dajie, Dongcheng District (8403 3500) www.namoc.org 东城区五四大街1号

Gehua Baihua Art Supplies 歌华百花美术用品有限公司
Daily 9am-6pm. 12 Wusi Dajie, Dongcheng District (Art Supplies: 6522 2511, Paper and Stationary: 6523 9483) 东城区五四大街12号

Longfusi Snack Street 隆福寺街
Longfusi Dajie, Dongcheng District

Yong’antang 永安堂
Daily 8.30am-9pm, 24hr window service. 434 Dongsi Beidajie, Dongcheng District (6404 1974) 东城区东四北大街434号

Xian Lao Man 馅老满
Daily 10.30am-10.30pm. 316 Dongsi Beidajie, Dongcheng District (8402 5779) 东城区东四北大街316号

Da Baobei 大宝贝儿童服装
Daily 9am-9pm. 371 Dongsi Beidajie, Dongcheng District (6402 8091, 379710938@qq.com) 东城区东四北大街371号

Bluehat 蓝礼儿室
Daily 10am-10pm. 421-1 Dongsi Beidajie, Dongcheng District (6400 2683) 东城区东四北大街421-1号

Jude Huatian Xiaochi Dian 聚德华天小吃店
Daily 6am-9pm. 214 Dongsi Beidajie, Dongcheng District (6202 4587) 东城区东四北大街214号

This article is excerpted from beijingkids October 2012 issue that appeared for the first time on beijingkids October 28, 2012.

After hours of combing through our archives, we feature some places worth a visit over the holiday period to get the most out of Beijing before the cold has us shuddering at the thought of having to go outside.

One of the most striking features of autumn in Beijing is the changing of the leaves. From now until mid-November, we can expect to see the city’s foliage turning bright shades of yellow, orange, and red. Fragrant Hills (Xiangshan) might be the most popular destination to appreciate the changing of the seasons, but it also tends to be one of the busiest.

Instead, we decided to explore the quiet, sprawling grounds of Beijing’s storied academic institutions for a fall family outing rich in history and scenery. This journey takes place in Haidian District and features a walk around Peking University’s (PKU) Weiming Lake, a bike ride and lunch at neighbouring Tsinghua University, a detour to the Old Summer Palace, and dinner at Changchunyuan Gourmet Street.

Most expats are aware that PKU and Tsinghua are two of the most prestigious universities in China, but their appeal goes far beyond the intellectual. That’s why you are as likely to see tour groups as you are to see students on campus. Formerly known as the Imperial University of Peking (京师大学堂), PKU was built in 1898 and the campus hosts many famous attractions. The must-visits for autumn are the beautiful Weiming Lake and Boya Tower on its southeast bank.

To start your journey, take subway line 4 to East Gate of Peking University station and get out at exit A. You will see two admission gates nearby. The one near the newspaper stand is for students and school staff, and the other one is for visitors. If you know someone at PKU, they can bring you in with them; otherwise, you will have to take your passport and register at the other gate.

The PKU campus is relatively small and most places are within walking distance. After you enter the gate, walk straight for about 200m and turn right on Weiming Beilu (未名北路). You will see Boya Tower within 100m. Walking under the trees around the lake, you will pass students reading books on the benches by the water. There are several young ginkgo trees around the lake; their leaves should be a luminous shade of gold by the time this issue is out. Although scarlet maple leaves are what many think of when it comes to autumn foliage, the elegant fan-shaped leaves from this rare, slow-growing tree have a special beauty of their own.

Find out more here.

This article originally appeared on p30-33 of the beijingkids November 2013 issue. Check out the PDF version online at Issuu.com

Photos: Clemence Jiang

As the holiday period draws to a close, try out some near places that are bound to have fewer people and hopefully have some last minute fun before the hectic working and school days resume.

Tiantan Park, also known as the Temple of Heaven. This peaceful park can be splendid as long as you come prepared. The immensity of the grounds demands a battle plan, especially if little legs are on the march. Allot for about four hours, dividing your time equally among absorbing Chinese history, snacking on delightful baked goods and shopping for new clothes and toys.

Start your day at the South Gate of Tiantan Park. From this point, you’ll be entering the site just as China’s emperors did in times past. Once in, the chaos of Beijing evanesces and serenity sets in. You’ll be greeted by the Circular Mound Altar of Heaven (1), a three-tiered platform upon which emperors would meditate before proceeding to pray to the gods for good harvest. The view from the top is impressive, making it a great photo spot for your own little emperors.

Walking down the other side of the altar, continue through the imperial-red gates towards the north. The next stop is the Imperial Vault of Heaven (2), where the ceremonial tablets were stored. A faint whispering can be heard on along the ground’s circular wall. Nicknamed "The Echo Wall," its shape allows for sound to travel much farther than is normal. Stand at each end facing opposite directions and talk politics (okay, you can pick your own subject).

Find out what other places you can explore here.

Photos: star5112, Keith Roper, Travelourplanet (flickr)

After hours of combing through our archives, we feature some places worth a visit over the holiday period to get the most out of Beijing before the cold has us shuddering at the thought of having to go outside. These places are action packed and hopefully the weather and air quality index permit a day out. Avoid the crowds at places like Tiananmen as even walking 200 meters will take an eternity.

In times of old, Qianmen Dajie was famous for its restaurants, shops, street vendors, and performance artists. Though more streamlined and commercialized, the newly reconstructed Qianmen Dajie offers entertainment of a similar flair. Qianmen literally translates to "front gate," and when you see the looming archway that frames the entrance to this bustling street, you’ll know why. Whether the idea of Starbucks and H&M masked in traditional Chinese architecture excites or unnerves you, this bustling area assuages your consumer desires while providing plenty of distractions for kids, including a tram ride and a museum.

Start your day off with a crash course on local history at the Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall (1), located next to the Old Qianmen Railroad Station. (As a side note: The Railroad museum is currently being remodeled, but it’s worth checking out the European architecture juxtaposed with the Qing dynasty replica of Qianmen Dajie.) The third floor of the exhibition hall is entirely dedicated to a miniature model of Beijing, perfect for kids to "ooh and ah" at. If there’s time, head to the fourth floor and catch a flick at the 3-D cinema with its 120° concave screen.The exhibition hall provides an easy way for children to inadvertently get a history lesson, while being entertained by various models and sculptures showcasing Beijing’s rich past and fast-paced future.

Five minutes west from the Exhibition Hall is Qianmen’s front gate, known as Zhengyangmen (2). Walk between the newly revamped gate and the Qianmen archery building (3), called Jian Lou. You can’t go inside the archery building, but its history is impressive. This structure was almost destroyed three times during the Qing dynasty, and yet this massive concrete block has remained standing since its first construction in 1916. Across the road from the archery building is the red, gold and blue-specked arch that frames Qianmen Dajie. Originally built in 1419, the gatehouse is the tallest among all the the gates of Beijing.

Explore more here.

For the latest addition, check our view of Madame Tussauds.

Photos: Ivan Walsh (Flickr)

After hours of combing through our archives, we feature some places worth a visit over the holiday period to get the most out of Beijing before the cold has us shuddering at the thought of having to go outside. These places are action packed and hopefully the weather and air quality index permit a day out. Avoid the crowds at places like Tiananmen as even walking 200 meters will take an eternity.

It’s no secret that autumn is one of the best times to be in Beijing. Though the days are winding down, there are still plenty of opportunities to enjoy some outdoor fun. Tucked away in the northeast of Beijing between the Airport Expressway and the Fourth Ring Road, the area around Si’de Park in Lido is ripe for exploration. The presence of several hotels, international schools, and foreign companies make this a popular spot for expat families. Though small, this diverse and laid-back neighborhood is dotted with restaurants, cafes, and shops.

Before heading into Si’de Park, stop by Maan Coffee (1). Kids will love the Korean cafe’s heaping Belgian-style waffles (ranging from RMB 28-62). Maan Coffee also offers bingsu (shaved ice bowls), sandwiches, salads, and coffee. However, avoid the greasy breakfast plates at all costs. The cafe occupies two floors and boasts inspired decor: floor-to-ceiling windows, lots of wood, glass chandeliers, and a large tree sprouting from the ground floor. There’s also a nail salon called Nail Mania within the building. Another bonus is that the Lido branch of Ai Jiang Shan, arguably one of the best Korean chains in town, is located right next door.

Walk off those waffles and head to Si’de Park North Gate (2). At 167,000 square meters, Si’de Park is modest by Beijing standards. However, the impeccably landscaped grounds and range of facilities attract locals and foreigners of all ages. After entering the north gate, turn right and follow the park’s circular path. You’ll come across a children’s amusement park, complete with an inflatable castle, tiled playgrounds, merry-go-rounds, and all kinds of colorful rides. The amusement park is open every day from 9am-7pm to children 8 years and younger. Each rides costs around RMB 5-15.

Find out more to discover here.

Photos: Sijia Chen

Some 50 kilometers to the northwest of Beijing, the great Yanshan mountain range parts abruptly like a theater curtain, opening into an enclosed basin of around 40 sqkm of peaceful, scenic countryside. When the great Ming Dynasty Emperor Yongle arrived here early in the 15th century, he realized that he had at last found the ideal place for himself and his successors to practice rutu wei’an (入土为安), a traditional Chinese funeral practice. Over the next two centuries, a total of 13 imperial mausoleums (or shisanling 十三陵) were completed in the valley. The complex has in modern times undergone considerable restoration work, and while only three of the tombs are now open to public view, a visit to the site provides
an insight into the styles and obsessions of the age, as well as making for a pleasant day out in a picturesque valley away from the busy central suburbs.

Sacred Way 神道
Almost better known than the tombs themselves is the Sacred Way, the 7km pathway leading to the central tomb that was the official approach for the imperial coffins. In the middle of what is now an isolated field, visitors will find a large marble paifang gate, composed of six pillars and five entrances. This is the first of three archways, which were constructed in 1540. They are the largest of their kind that exists in China today. Following paifang is the Great Red Gate, or dahongmen.

A short walk leads to the Shengong Shengde Stele Pavilion, which houses a great stele (an upright stone pillar bearing an inscription) resting on the back of an enormous tortoise. Beyond the pavilion stands an odd but fascinating series of six animals and human statues on either side of the path.

Find out more here

This post first appeared here on April 18, 2012.

Photos: archive