I dozed off as the minibus sped along the green slopes of south-central Yunnan. Shortly after passing the sleepy town of Xinping, we arrived in Gasa Township (戛洒镇). The Thai-style motifs of the buildings told me we were in Dai minority country. But Gasa is far north of Yunnan’s famous Xishuangbanna Dai prefecture. The locals here are the “Huayao” or “Flower Belt” Dai.

The Huayao Dai mainly live in the middle and upper reaches of the Red River Valley, where relative isolation has allowed them to preserve their unique culture. This is evident in Pingzhai Village, nestled in terraced green slopes at the edge of town.

Maturing rice in Pingzhai Village.

Pingzhai Village

Entering Pingzhai you hear water rushing along irrigation canals and birds chirping. Walking the streets you’re greeted by barking farm dogs and honking geese. It’s a village where you’re still more likely to see farmers working the fields than tourists roaming the alleyways.

 At the southwest edge of Pingzhai is a barbecue restaurant called Number 10 Farmhouse (十号农庄). On my visit in July the owner Baiqiu (白秋) introduced me to a group of Huayao Dai guests from Shuitang (水塘), a village further up the valley. They arrived in traditional costumes.

Women from Shuitang Village enjoying a barbecue at No. 10 Farmhouse, Pingzhai.

A distinctive cultural inheritance

The intricate clothing of Huayao Dai women represents their ancient beliefs and customs. Their waist is wrapped in vibrant brocade belts, which are the origin of the name “Huayao Dai”. Their silver chains symbolize the hearty rice grown by the Dai, who were some of the earliest rice cultivators in the region. The striking black-dyed teeth of many Huayao Dai is an expression of purity and good hygiene.

Huayao Dai embroidered garments.

It was clear from their dress that the Shuitang women were proud of their heritage. It was also clear they had come for a proper feast. They grilled with remarkable efficiency. Spicy chicken thighs, sausages and fish came off the grill in quick succession. We washed it down with coconut milk and toasted each other with rice wine.

Barbecue fare with local flavors.

Toward the end of our meal Baiqiu rolled out an old wooden-case karaoke machine. The first singer was Ran. She chanted about the fortune of meeting a foreign friend from thousands of miles away. She and her companions then took turns blessing each other. Between each prayer, they would hum a calming falsetto note.

When the karaoke machine ran out of battery some of the women chatted and a few went to play on rope swings in the woods.

Swinging in the Gasa countryside.

A birthday in Pingzhai

The night before I met the women from Shuitang I joined a large banquet at Pingzhai Village Hall. Hundreds of people were celebrating the birthday of a local one-year-old. A jovial group of men at one table invited me over. Among them was a tunnel construction worker nicknamed Little Germany. We toasted beers as he and his friends shared local delicacies and explained the distinctness of Huayao Dai culture. They were especially proud to share a hearty clump of locally grown purple sticky rice.

Villagers in Pingzhai gather for a meal.

When all the tables had cleared out and our beers finished, Little Germany and his friend Dong took me dancing in the village square. We made a mess of the routines while the women next to us moved gracefully. A video seems to have made the rounds, as the next day Baiqiu and another local asked me if I was the foreigner from the square.

The birthday party and lunch at the farmhouse gave me a taste of how locals in Gasa like to celebrate, but I have yet to experience quintessential Huayao Dai festivals like “Calling on the Moon God” and the “Flower Avenue”.

Ran leads a Flower Avenue procession.

A cry in the moonlight, an avenue of blossoms

Every year in mid-February or March, two days before the full moon, Huayao Dai residents in Gasa “Call on the Moon God”. They pray for good weather and an abundant harvest. Unlike other branches of Dai culture, which have adopted Theravada Buddhism, Huayao Dai still practices an animist religion. They believe all things in nature possess life and soul and that humans should be humble to the powerful forces of nature.

The Huayao Dai is also known for the “Flower Avenue” festival when women march with rice seedling baskets as a symbol of courtship. The Shuitang women did a miniature Flower Avenue parade at No. 10 Farmhouse. They donned their pink embroidered jackets and walked solemnly through colorful archways at the restaurant entrance. Ran led one procession, filming it with her smartphone. When the mini-parade was finished we danced to disco music on the recharged karaoke machine.

The people I met in Gasa showed how Huayao Dai culture persists not simply because of seclusion but more importantly because of their social bonds and vitality.

Flower Avenue procession.

Orientation

Culture

The Huayao Dai are one of four branches of Yunnan’s Dai ethnic minority group, which has historical links to Thai culture. Huayao Dai beliefs, customs and language differ markedly from other Dai groups. Some 11,000 Huayao Dai live in Gasa Township. 

Location

Gasa is located some 200 kilometers southwest of Kunming in Xinping Yi and Dai Autonomous County, Yuxi Prefecture. It rests at the eastern foot of the central Ailao Mountains on the Red River, 40 kilometers away from Xinping County seat. Within reach of Gasa are cool upland waterfalls and subtropical river basins. It is not to be confused with another Gasa in Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture further south.

Gasa has a number of hotels that cater to foreign tourists. The closest to Pingzhai Village is the Xinping Huayao Tianjian Hotel (新平花腰田间酒店) several minutes walk from Gasa bus terminus.

You can visit Gasa as a side trip from Kunming or as part of a wider trip south to Yunnan’s tea capital Pu’er and tropical Xishuangbanna, where you can further explore Dai minority cultures. Another option is to go southeast from Gasa towards Honghe Prefecture.

Woman working in rice paddies in Pingzhai.

Getting there and away

Kunming South Passenger Bus Terminus (南部汽车客运站) has daily buses direct to Gasa. Departure times and ticket prices vary, so it is best to check at Kunming south bus terminus or a travel APP like Tongcheng Travel (同程旅行) in WeChat. The price from Kunming to Gasa is 100 RMB. The trip takes about three hours. Before purchasing a ticket, make sure you are going to Gasa in Xinping County (新平县) and not the Gasa in Xishuangbanna.

A number of buses each day leave Gasa Passenger Bus Terminus (戛洒客运站) for nearby destinations. Most go to Xinping, where there are more transfer options. It is unlikely to get a bus to Xinping after 5:30pm and a few buses go from Gasa to Kunming directly. Again it is best to check bus times and prices at the terminus or online.

To get to Pingzhai Village, follow the road leading westward from Gasa bus terminus past a billowing factory towards the Ailao foothills. You’ll see tourist signs pointing towards Pingzhai Village (平寨村) and the Huayao Tianjian Scenic Area (花腰田间风景区). Before you get to Pingzhai you’ll see the Xinping Huayao Tianjian Hotel on your left.

Twilt hills above Pingzhai.

Acknowledgments

 Gifford Searls and Howard Huxter contributed to this article.

 Information on the history and folklore of Gasa Village and the Huayao Dai culture is informed by “Entering the Huayao Dai”, “Huayao Dai Etiquette and Customs” and a conversation with Zhou Deyong, vice president of the Dai Society of Yunnan Province.

 A special thanks to Baiqiu of No. 10 Farmhouse, as well as Tao Ming, president of the Dai Society in Gasa Village, Xinping County, Bai Yiwu, president of the Dai Society in Xinping County, Dao Minghua, vice president of the Dai Society in Xinping County; also Zhou Deyong, vice president of the Dai Society in Yunnan Province, for this folklore introduction and additional support.

Even before I arrived in China, I had heard nothing but praise for Yunnan. This land South of the Clouds lives up to the literal translation of its Chinese name – blue skies, big clouds, all in a place filled with color and contrast, especially if you’re starting out from Kunming.

Ask anyone about where to go in Yunnan and they’ll say start from the provincial capital but don’t just stay there. They will usually tell you that it’s a starting point for all your exotic excursions to Dali, Pu’er, and Xishuangbanna and nothing more.

Smack dab in the city center, Moon & Chalice isn’t just a great place to stay, but good-looking as well

So, when it came time for me to finally visit Kunming, all I could think was, “What is there to even do there?”I took a step out the door, hopped on a plane, and found myself in the capital, riding the subway from Kunming Changshui Airport to my hotel…

A Home in the Old City

This was my first taste of an out-of-the-ordinary journey. Dubbed the Moon & Chalice Boutique Hotel, the hotel occupies two French-designed twin yellow buildings erected in 1944. It’s named as such because they both curve to form a crescent moon embracing two lanes that, when looked at from above, form a chalice.

Entering the hotel, the interior is a sight to behold. Keeping with the aesthetic of the era the buildings were born in, the whole space is art deco with a contemporary flare here and there. Gold metal and marble meeting with blue and green walls, and art of all kinds throughout.

The rooms are slim but still comfortable

Even the rooms (some thin, due to the width of the structures, but not cramped) are phenomenal. A stay in a Standard Double Room runs about RMB 468 per night and can get you a dose of that local luxury that gives you all the comforts that you would want.

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Around Green Lake

Think of Green Lake, 翠湖 Cuì Hú, as a miniature version of Beijing’s Beihai with a few elements of Shichahai (namely the shopping for kitsch aspect), with features like temples, pavilions, and bridges throughout. It’s green under the summer sun, and entering through a stylized red and blue gateway, I’m greeted by a long bridge flanked by placid waters covered by lily pads not yet in bloom.

Wenlin Jie has a great many quirky shops and storefronts

Green Lake isn’t just a nice place to walk around and gaze at the green of spring or summer, but there are plenty of activities to try as well. For small children in tow, there are singing mall trains cruising about. There’s also the option to paddleboat your way around the lake as well.

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A Little Bit of History

When looking for a spot that can be called one of the most significant historic sites in the city, the honor goes to Yunnan Military Academy. Founded in 1909, the academy’s history goes from the end of the imperial era and into the modern era.In between all the history, there are little tidbits like mock classrooms thrown in, as well as a look at students’ living quarters and, in the middle, yet another café and shop overlooking the training grounds. In keeping with wanghong trends, they’ve even got ice creams shaped like the academy entrance.

 

The city was also home for a time to the American Volunteer Group, aka the Flying TigersBesides the Yunnan Military Academy, a few other museums worth a visit include the Kunming Museum (which houses a special exhibition on the American Volunteer Group, aka the Flying Tigers), the Yunnan Provincial Museum, and the Yunnan Railway Museum. The latter institution, housed near Kunming North Station, has a collection of trains – making it a great spot to visit if you’re traveling with children.

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Where to Refuel

While one could just skip hunting for the perfect cup of Yunnan coffee and head to the nearest Starbucks (fun fact: they use only Yunnan beans in China), instead hit up local cafés and check out all the different sub-varieties of Yunnan beans there are to be had. Best bet: right outside Moon & Chalice there’s 日常咖啡 Rìcháng Kāfēi, which has three different Yunnan beans to choose from to try or take home (I got one for RMB 98 for 100g).

My first taste of proper Yunnan cuisine took place just off Wenlin Jie, at a small eatery called Heavenly Manna. The stuff to go for at this cheap and popular lunch and dinner spot include the Yunnan-Style Mashed Potatoes (RMB 22), Lotus Root in Dai-Style Sauce (RMB 25), Stir-Fried Goat Cheese With Tomato (RMB 45), and the vaguely named Spicy Tasty Pork (RMB 38), which is true to its name and pretty tasty.

Heavenly Manna is a great lunch and dinner spot

Last but not least, no trip to Kunming is complete without getting yourself an 饵块 ěrkuài. Not exactly two yuan (it translates to earpiece), erkuai is sticky rice dough that’s pounded until soft and molded into different shapes. The most common form sees the dough rolled around a youtiao with sweet and savory fillings (烧饵块加油条 shāo ěrkuài jiā yóutiáo). Get it, it’s good! But don’t try using it to get on public transit.

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The Western Hills & Dianchi Lake

Much like Beijing, Kunming has a Western Hills (RMB 30/entry), but unlike their dryer and more massive counterpart in the north, the hills in Kunming find themselves next to a lake, the sixth largest in China to be exact.A commanding view of Dianchi Lake (滇池 diānchí) can be had when summiting the mountain via chair lift (RMB 25/person). Aside from the breathtaking view, on the walk down there’s another difference setting it apart from the north: this spot is part climb part Daoist holy site. Small outcroppings dot the path downward, each with a shrine hiding deities within. One of the highlights of the trek is Datian Pavilion, where the 龙门 Lóngmén (Dragon Gate), for which this series of outcroppings and shrines is named, can be found.

For a closer look at Dianchi after a climb down, it’s a bit of a drive, but worth it. Visiting there on an afternoon rewards one with the slowly setting sun dancing across the waters. The crescent-shaped lake is massive, 39km in length and 13km in width at its widest point.

Naigu Stone Forest

Not to be confused with the larger and more popular Stone Forest Scenic Area, the Naigu Stone Forest Scenic Area (乃古石林风景区 nǎigǔ shílín fēngjǐngqū) is a great place to witness Yunnan’s karst topography while avoiding crowds of tourists. When our group of eight visited, we were the only souls in the entire scenic area beside a film crew we ran into well into our tour.

Unlike Major Stone Forest, Naigu’s rock formations are predominantly black in color. The formations can either be viewed from a series of paths amongst stones or from a path snaking through the center of the formations. The latter is a bit more fun to traverse, as you can duck and dodge under and around protruding pieces of stone.

Like many before me, my journey to Kunming has made me fall in love with the local culture, scenery, food, and art. It’s something that should be on every person’s China travel bucket list — but there’s yet more to see just outside the capital that’s worth sharing. Stay tuned!

Images: Vincent R Vinci

At over 3,000 meters, you might at first feel lightheaded when arriving in Shangri-la. The sensation could be altitude sickness but also the thrill of reaching Tibet’s doorstep.

Shangri-la (香格里拉) is the principal town of Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in northwest Yunnan. It’s named after the Himalayan paradise of James Hilton’s novel Lost Horizon. Although today’s frontier town hardly resembles its mythical namesake, it’s worth a brief stay to acclimate and plan excursions in the surrounding mountains.

The proximity to Tibet is palpable. A significant minority of the locals are ethnic Tibetans and Buddhist faithful prostrate themselves before the town’s religious sites. The Ganden Sumtseling Monastery at the town’s edge is often described as a miniature of Lhasa’s Potala Palace.

Shangri-la is the final stop for many travelers to northwest Yunnan but beyond the town lies an astonishing array of peaks, glaciers, and canyons that stretch far into Tibet and Sichuan. It’s within this southernmost extension of the Himalayas, known as the Hengduan Mountains, where more Shangri-las can be found.

Meili Snow Mountain & Yubeng

A four hour drive north of Shangri-la is Meili Snow Mountain (梅里雪山), an imposing wall of icy peaks guarding the border to Tibet. At over 6,700m, Meili is the highest mountain in Yunnan. The classic trip to Meili involves first staying the night near Feilaisi Temple (飞来寺), which offers the chance of a breathtaking sunrise. Lodging is also available in the nearby town of Deqen (德钦).

Meili’s sacred main peak, Kawagebo, twists eerily at its summit and is hooded in a massive ice sheet. The mountain lives up to its foreboding appearance. In the 1990s a team of Chinese and Japanese mountaineers perished attempting to summit the peak. Climbing Meili has since been forbidden. Tibetans do not climb Kawagebo or other sacred Meili peaks out of respect. Instead many will circle the range in a weeks-long procession.

One stop on this pilgrimage is the alpine village of Yubeng (雨崩) nestled in the southern portion of the Meili massif. Getting to Yubeng requires a trip to the hot spring village of Xidang (西当), which lies across a deep gorge between the Meili foothills and Feilaisi. From Xidang, the hike to Yubeng is several hours over a ridge into Ninong Valley. The route is also served by SUVs, though rides are expensive.

The scenery in lower Yubeng Village

Yubeng has long been a hikers’ mecca. Several years ago, it was only accessible on foot. Now with road access, it still draws adventurous visitors with its dramatic scenery and old-growth forests.

On my last visit in January 2022, the area was a frozen wonderland. It was also dangerous in some places, with the trails often obscured and avalanches frequent. My my friend Imran and I were dusted by two cascades on our hike to the Sacred Waterfall (神瀑). A couple days earlier a team of trekkers on their way to the falls had been partially buried.

Imran near the Scared Waterfall

Another popular day hike from Yubeng is to a glacial lake in the direction of Kawagebo. I have never reached the lake. On my first try in spring 2020, I took a wrong turn and ended up walking along an esker towards the mountain face. On another attempt in winter 2022, my companion and I were deterred by meter-deep snow and poor visibility.

For those not content with these two treks, a 19km walk from Yubeng down to Ninong (尼农) village is a dramatic tour through several climatic zones. The final stretch runs along steep sunbaked cliffs cut by the Yubeng River as it rushes to join the Lancang River, a main tributary of the Mekong. From Ninong it is possible to catch a bus to Deqen.

While Yubeng village has become an established tourist destination, its environment remains largely intact. Neon-green trees beard—a sign of pure air—hangs from the pines. There are also wild animals, including gregarious squirrels, flocks of ptarmigan and endangered red pandas.

A squirrel in Yubeng Forest

Pudacuo National Park & Niru

Less well-known than Yubeng is Niru (尼汝), a Tibetan village located northeast of Shangri-la in Pudacuo National Park (普达措国家公园).

Hengduan vistas

In the lush canyon leading to Niru, my driver remarked he had never seen anything so alluring. I could quickly see why a guesthouse owner in Shangri-la told me that “Niru is a place of gods and spirits”.

My first hike from the village took me about 12km up to Napo Pasture. The well-signed paths led through a variety of habitats, from temperate mixed forest to upland moors. Crossing the pasture, I was under the gaze of dozens of yaks, whose herders chuckled when the creatures snorted and leapt out of my way. The herders were the only people I met on the trail. I was impressed by their fitness to regularly trek up to the pasture.

Napo Pasture

Another day I hiked in the forests above a canyon northeast of the village and descended to the Niru River. A newly constructed boardwalk brought me along the base of the canyon. At certain points the chasm was so narrow I could barely see the sky. Eventually I reached the Seven Color Waterfall (七彩瀑布), where hundreds of streams wash over radiant hues of moss.

My last day in Niru I took a trail out of the valley to Shudu Lake (属都湖) at the western end of Pudacuo National Park. My host at the B&B told me it was the old trail to Shangri-la town. The hike took a day at a leisurely pace and brought me through temperate forest and stands of red birch. After crossing an immense pasture I descended to Shudu Lake, where I caught one of the last mini-buses to the park entrance and a car back to Shangri-la.

Practical

Buses run from Shangri-la to Deqen and Feilaisi near Yubeng, but hiring a car is preferable for reaching Niru. Yubeng is served by a number of shops, restaurants and guesthouses. The Gap Time Guesthouse (间隔时光) is a popular lodging option, and the nearby Shop on the Clouds (云上小店) sells Cantonese-style snacks, necessities and mountaineering supplies.

Niru is a smaller village with a less developed tourist economy. As for lodging, it’s advisable to inquire availability in Shangri-la town.

READ: Get Lost in Kunming: Yunnan’s Underrated Capital City

Images: CloudBridge Media by Design, Unsplash

For International Children’s Day, Songtsam will organize a special children’s baseball event at the Olympic Forest North Park in Beijing. Under the guidance of professional baseball coaches from Dreamcatcher Softball Club (捕梦者), the Songstam team are inviting you and your children for a fun family day out where you will learn the fundamentals of the bat-and-ball game.

Here are eight reasons why you and your kids should sign up for their FREE family baseball event:

•       Exercise
•       Improve focus and attention
•       Build confidence and patience
•       Make new friends
•       Learn how to work within a team
•       Learn the value of good sportsmanship
•       Learn about respecting authority
•       Outdoor fun!

In addition to all of the above, it’s also a chance for parents to learn about Songtsam. Did you know that they organize a variety of unique and inspiring family trips and summer camps across Yunnan and Tibet? They are also giving families who signup the chance to save 10% on any Songtsam family trip or upcoming summer camp that is booked directly with them after the event! Email reservations@songtsam.com today to sign up! Spaces are limited to 16 families in total.

Tantalize your taste buds, chop ‘til you drop, and sharpen up both the kitchen knives and your cooking skills this New Year, with your pick of cooking classes at The Hutong throughout January.

Start the New Year with major boss moves in the kitchen, impress your dinner guests with newfound skills, and update and mix up your pantry and recipe book!

Gourmet Chinese Dumplings, Jan 6
When in Rome. Dumplings have long been a staple in many traditional Chinese homes, a dinner table mainstay as well as an iconic dish on special occasions. There are many occasions that call for dumpling making, and if you’ve been in China long enough it’s not unlikely that you’ve been invited to join a table or two for Dumpling 101 sessions. It’s also likely that you haven’t used your new culinary experience to continue practicing and honing your dumpling-making skills. If that’s the case, start the new year off with a professional dumpling cooking class at The Hutong, and refine those kneading, filling, and pinching techniques. This isn’t just any dumpling-making session, this is Gourmet dumpling making. Adults. RMB 300. 10.30am–1pm.

Yunnan Cai, Jan 10
One of my absolute favorites, and reminiscent of the fragrant delicacies that usually grace bamboo tables in Thai restaurants and beach huts. If you’re looking for cooking skills that will teach you how to create flavorful and aromatic dishes then this is the one for you. Dubbed as the Ninth School of Chinese Cuisine, Yunnan Cai is a fusion of Han and Ethnic Minority culinary influences. Learn how to bring out the best in fresh wild vegetables, mushrooms, and colorful ingredients that make simple dishes pop! Join the wave of trendies hitting the “in-cuisine” scene, by bringing the trend to your own dinner table. Adults. RMB 300. 2.30pm–5pm. The Hutong.

Hand-Pulled Noodles, Jan 20
I don’t know about you but I’ve always been super impressed with the showmanship and technique that comes with serving up hand-pulled Chinese noodles. They go in peanut salads, soups, and stews, and are perfect winter-warming edible yumminess. If being more impressive than ever in the kitchen was your New Year Resolution, then this one is epic impressiveness with a side of more epicness for winter dining at home with loved ones and friends. Learn an ancient Chinese tradition that dates back to 1504. Accompanying your perfectly pulled noodles you will prepare a sweet and seasonal Xinjiang sauce. Knead and stretch, stretch, stretch…Adults. RMB 300. 2.30pm–5pm. The Hutong.

Tastes of India, Jan 10
Go gourmet with Indian Vegan table! That’s right, all that spice and all things nice, the vegan way. Join Chef Reshma Khan as she helps you to travel through a colorful Indian expedition, where veggies are the star of the show. Embrace a philosophy that puts your health and the health of the ecosystem at the forefront without having to sacrifice taste! Indian fine dining collides with a belief system that has taken root in all corners of the globe. You will learn how to use humble ingredients such as fresh vegetables, lentils, and pulses, and transform them into tantalizing dishes that really revolutionizes the meek vegetable into the star of the show. Adults. RMB 300. 7–9.30pm. The Hutong.

Try these classes and other awesome offerings throughout the month of January (and the rest of 2019) and start the year off with a culinary bang. Get in touch with The Hutong to find out more. You won’t regret it. Book online and you’ll be given the tools to become a cooking whiz.

The Hutong
1 Jiudaowan Zhongxiang, Beixinqiao Dongcheng District. (159 0104 6127, info@thehutong.com) www.thehutong.com中国北京东城区北新桥九道湾中巷1号

Photos: Courtesy of www.thehutong.com

This time of the year is perfect for savoring Yunnan cuisine, known for its mushroom dishes as well as its fusion of several Chinese tastes. It’s not surprising as the province is located in China’s southwest where the country’s Han Chinese culture meets with the tropical flavors of Southeastern Asian countries like Vietnam, Laos, and Burma.

Yunnan’s delicacy gets its hot and spicy flavor from neighboring Sichuan province, while utilizing ingredients and seasoning from southeastern Chinese provinces like Zhejiang and Guangdong.

Surely Yunnan food is part of my ever-growing bucket list in China. I heard that the province has an adorable climate and awesome natural scenery — and yes, those will be the subjects of a future Bucket List article when I visit the provincial capital Kunming and neighboring cities soon! But for now, let me share my Yunnan experience in Beijing, courtesy of the Yunnan Food Festival.

I went to JW Kitchen at JW Marriott Hotel Beijing Central in Xuanwumen last weekend and splurged on this Chinese cuisine. And it didn’t disappoint! I tried the must-eat first.

Fried Diqing top-notch matsutake mushroom

I’m a fan of mushrooms and this one didn’t disappoint. Matsutake is a rare and pricey mushroom and is called “the King of Fungus” for its health benefits.  I liked how the grilled taste jived with the soft-to-crunchy texture of matsutake mushroom.

“Crossing the Bridge” Noodles (Guoqiao mixian)

Coming from a tropical country where it always rains, I’m accustomed to sipping chicken noodle soups and (chocolate) porridge. Hence I developed a certain liking to tasty soups – which I don’t usually find in many restaurants in Beijing. The one served to me at the festival was just incredible as it mixed the flavors of chicken broth and hot spices, while the noodle didn’t slip from my fork.

Of course, being the history geek I am, I wondered why this dish is called “Crossing the Bridge.” The cooks I asked at the festival explained the dish is named after a popular story in Yunnan, about a scholar and his wife.

The folk tale tells us that the scholar had been studying on an island in the province, isolating himself as he prepared for his imperial examinations. His wife used to cross a wooden bridge to bring him hot noodle soup, but the dish always arrived cold. Later in the story, she found out that putting a layer of vegetable oil on top of the noodle soup would keep it warm. Well, it just so happens that because of this hot soup, the scholar passed his exams. How lovely!

Grilled Changdu Pork and Hotplate Shiping Beancurd

I arrived a bit late at the festival so I didn’t have the chance to taste the Grilled Changdu Pork (top left in the picture above). But I heard it was the most popular dish as it got stripped within minutes of serving. What JW Kitchen did to their version of Grilled Changdu Pork was they, well, grilled it until the skin turned a shiny red. They used a special spice that made the meat just right without an abundant amount of grease. This dish reminds me of the Philippines’ roast pig called lechon, in which a special soy sauce is mixed with spices and coated on the pig skin to make it shiny and crispy, and of course tasty.

Meanwhile, Shiping bean curd, according to JW Kitchen, has a history four centuries old. In its namesake county, the dish is given as a present to close friends, family, and honorable guests. The outer layer of Shiping bean curd is surprisingly crispy as I thought it would be quite soft, and the dressings further enhance its flavor.

Other Yunnan flavors

Luckily my tummy had enough room for other treats. The Pineapple (sticky) Rice dish is just lovely as I really love this fruit. I actually went back a couple of times because the combination of the not-so-sticky rice and the medium-sweet-but-not-sour pineapple is perfect to balance the saltiness and spicy tastes of the other dishes on the table.

At the festival, families can also enjoy international dishes infused with Yunnan flavors. JW Kitchen says everything served at the Yunnan Food Festival is freshly-made, including dressings, with no processed ingredients. What’s more, the whole thing is suitable for families who want to experience the flavors of Yunnan without leaving Beijing.

Yunnan Food Festival at JW Kitchen
When: Until August 6, 2017
Where: JW Marriott Hotel Beijing Central, No.18 Xuanwumenwai Street Xicheng District, 北京市西城区宣武门外大街18号
Price (dinner): RMB 468 per person (Sunday to Thursday); RMB 498 per person (Friday to Saturday)
Contact: For reservations, call 6391 6361 or visit jwmarriottbeijingcentral.com

How to get there?

By subway: Take Line 2 or 4 and get off at Xuanwumen station exit G. Walk 600 meters (about 9 minutes) straight ahead and you will see JW Marriott on your right.
By Didi/ride-share app: Type in 助理市场传讯总监 (Běijīng yuè cái JW wànháo jiǔdiàn)
By bus: Take Bus Line 83, 102, 105, 109, Night bus 10 (outer), or Night bus 4 and alight at Jiaochangkou 较场口 station. JW Marriott can be easily seen at the station (both northbound or southbound)

Photos: courtesy of JW Marriott Hotel Beijing Central

More stories by this author here.
Email: andypenafuerte@beijing-kids.com
Instagram: @coolkidandy

GoodWorks Coffee and Tea aims to provide professional training and jobs to orphans who have aged out programs, at-risk teens, and those who have previously been institutionalized. Sam Cornthwaite founded GoodWorks with his business partner Richard Elmore in Bozeman, Montana in 2013. The two invested $200 each into the company, half of which went to savings and the other went into growing the business. As we posted in September in an article that originally appeared in The Beijinger, Cornthwaite moved to Beijing fulltime in 2015 and began earnestly laying the foundation for GoodWorks.  However, Cornthwaite tragically passed away this September, leaving GoodWorks to be taken over by others.

We recently sat down with Thomas Crow, the man on a mission to continue Cornthwaite’s legacy. Crow took on the daily operations of GoodWorks after Cornthwaite’s passing in early September of this year. Crow learned of Cornthwaite and GoodWorks while on a long-distance bike ride from Beijing to Bali with his husband. The couple had been sponsored by Chinese companies and a US company, posting on social media about their experiences with each company’s products. Crow and his husband had partnered with Cornthwaite and GoodWorks, carrying and drinking the company’s coffee on their ride towards Bali. Now Crow is working with others such as his husband and Hannah Cornthwaite, Sam’s sister, to secure and blossom the business.

Thomas Crow at a GoodWorks event

Rebuilding a New Busines
After Cornthwaite passed away in September, Crow said rebuilding the business proved difficult. “Sam was a one man show and not always good at documenting his plans or previous work,” Crow said.

“I love a good puzzle though…so far it’s been about putting all the pieces together to understand the whole picture.” Thomas says that since he has taken on the business he has had to learn much of how GoodWorks had operated before including partner relations, finding spaces for a training lab that Cornthwaite had planned to open, and even how to roast the coffee beans themselves.

Crow used literature, online resources, and the help of a previous coffee roaster to learn how to roast the brand’s coffee beans. Eventually, Crow said the taste of the new roast matched that of GoodWorks’ roasts under Cornthwaite.  Since taking on GoodWorks in September, Crow has begun roasting coffee beans in a location in Shunyi. Other things have changed as well. Crow stated that in the beginning, when he first took on the management of the company, his focus was entirely on learning what had been done before and how to keep the company afloat. Now however, Crow says that things have begun to stabilize and he believes he is in a position to begin thinking about the company’s long-term strategy.

A Fair Price Through Direct Interaction
In talking to Crow, it was obvious that he had taken on the business both to honor Cornthwaite and because he truly believes in the mission of the organization. Crow believes that, unlike other social enterprises that do not always end up helping their target community, Cornthwaite had been doing something really good in a really smart way.

One of the main methods that the company focuses on helping its demographic is through personal contact with its coffee farmers. GoodWorks practices direct trade rather than fair trade, meaning that it purchases beans directly from the farmers, not through a third-party organization such as in fair trade. Crow says that this allows for the farmers to focus on the quality of the beans rather than producing the most beans in order to make the most profit. In direct trade, buyers will usually purchase smaller batches and focus on quality of product verses quantity. In practicing direct trade and setting fair purchasing prices, GoodWorks also aims to avoid the chance that the farmers they buy from will become subsistence farmers, only making enough to grow beans the next year.

Since the past few months have been focused on rebuilding the organization, Crow says that his communication with farms has been limited but that he plans to visit Yunnan in the near future. For now Crow maintains direct contact with two of the farms GoodWorks also previously partnered with and communicates with another farm via third party.

Sam and Hannah Cornthwaite

Providing Training for Those in Need
One of GoodWorks’ targeted projects is the company’s Training Lab. Prior to his passing, Cornthwaite had both secured a location and two trainees to start the Lab. However, since then, due to complications with the location and the sudden passing of Cornthwaite, the opening of the Lab has been on hold.

Though Crow has been focused on redeveloping the business and has put the Lab on hold, he expressed a fervent interest in starting the Lab early after the start of the new year, seeing it as an integral part of GoodWorks’ mission. In planning for the Lab, Crow has been working with Hannah Elyse Cornthwaite, Sam Cornthwaite’s sister, to develop the Training Lab. Hannah Cornthwaite plans to use her experience working with special needs individuals to set up a curriculum that can be used in the Training Lab to teach adults.

Until the Training Lab can be opened, Crow and Hannah will be working to secure the company’s partnerships, regrow its retail sales, find a space and trainees for its Lab, and always work to refine its coffee. For now, GoodWorks is working on opening a physical store with a training lab attached. For those interested in supporting their cause, Crow says the best way is to either buy coffee and tea (found on the GoodWorks website or through PopUp Beijing) or donate cash or cafe supplies. GoodWorks is also available for individuals or groups seeking coffee or tea for their events such as markets, coffee tastings, and the like. For now, those seeking to contact GoodWorks can do so through the GoodWorks WeChat (goodworkschina) or by emailing Thomas Crow at thomas@thurstoncrow.com.

Photos: Thomas Crow and Hannah Elyse Cornthwaite

Those who buy a pair of Mantra sunglasses might feel this is their ever-best purchase. One pair of Mantra’s stylish sunglasses will support the donation of a pair of near-sight glasses to children in China’s remote areas.
A graduate of Columbia University in Economics and East Asia Studies, Sam Waldo first came to China’s Yunnan province six years ago, as a teacher. Being a young first-time teacher, Waldo initially was not regarded seriously by his students. But he worked hard to gradually gain their respect, by spending time with them through home visits, motivating and encouraging them.
It was through such daily time spent with them that Waldo realized many children didn’t perform well or lost interest in study simply because they couldn’t see properly what was written on the blackboard. After the teachiing program he then came to Beijing in 2012 to start up Mantra (which means “original heart”), raising funds by selling stylish sunglasses to support the donation of near-sight glasses to children whose families cannot afford them.
Waldo sees having lived in one of China’s more underdeveloped area as a great privilege, helping him to not be locked up in a tiny community. “People in these areas are so welcoming. They gave me their hands and time, sharing their stories with me, allowing me to witness their lives, and putting their children’s education in my hands. I got to experience the uniqueness of a convergence of lifestyles. In our current world when everything is moving so fast, I am really fortunate to be able to understand other people’s perspectives.”
When asked what made him decide to come to China and directly place himself in a poor remote area, he said he owed this to his very international education. He was born in Holland then lived in England, Scotland, Kuwait, and the U.S. He attended different types of schools and at an early age gained a global perspective and the desire to help those in need.
Over the last four years since Mantra was started, Waldo and his team have gone through considerable challenges. He considers perseverance as an important character quality, which has helped him stand firm in times of extreme challenges. “You have to just keep trying after a long time of no success”.
Thus far, Mantra has not gone the usual route of printing leaflets or advertising their products through mass promotion. Instead, Waldo himself often goes to a main business street, such as Wangfujing, to showcase sunglasses displayed in an old time leather suitcase, on an old bicycle or simply on a table. His marketing worked. He got lots of attention and orders, often far more than their stocks could immediately supply.
“We hope that when we do it this way, people will see who we are and begin to build trust. We meant for this project to be a positive contribution to the society at large rather than just selling sunglasses.”
Mantra glasses are designed by Australian designers based on inspiration from Chinese ethnic minority life and local Yunnan scenes such as terraced fields and lakes. Each pair has a unique name reflecting its inspiration; for example, Superfly in Dali Old Town, Hero in Er-Hai Dusk, and 88s in Kawagebo Sunrise. Materials are from the U.S. and produced to the highest quality standard. They cost RMB 360 for each pair. There are currently 21 types, mostly unisex with some particularly suitable for women. They don’t offer kids’ sizes at present.
For more information, subscribe to their WeChat account: findyourmantra.

This article originally appeared on page 17  of the November/ December issue of beijingkids magazine. Click here for your free online copy. To find out how you can obtain a hard copy, contact distribution@truerun.com.

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF MANTRA

In the beijingkids October issue, we featured ten destinations that should be considered for the Chunijie holidays that are fast approaching. There’s a new option to consider for those looking for a sporty holiday- The Hutong’s Cycling in Yunnan from February 14-22. This cycling trip is usually in scheduled for the October holidays (Golden Week) where travelers will bike 385km in the southern region of Yunnan, Xishuangbanna.

Xishuangbanna has tropical climate, rain forests, considered the birthplace of tea in China, and a rich cultural diversity. The diversity brings brings about different cuisines that will be sampled by travelers over the biking trip. There’s also getting to interact with the people from different communities to get to understand their way of life.

The biking will require some form of fitness but as The Hutong says, "it’s not a competition", this means that the pace will not be intense since there will stops to be made along the route. It does, however, require a fitness level to get through the hills and be able to recover better.

Here are crucial details from The Hutong:

Price:
RMB 9,000 per person (includes accommodations, meals, ground transportation, bike rentals, and fresh pineapples. Excludes Airfare.)

Cycling Info:
During the course of 7 days of cycling, we will complete 385km (give or take) of cycling – give or take, because our itineraries often vary slightly, given the opportunities for exploration and discovery. The Hutong’s Yunnan Bike Journey is just that – a journey on a bicycle. It’s not a race or a competition, but an opportunity to move at just the right speed through beautiful villages, say “hello” to locals, stop for an impromptu pineapple snack, or sneak off into the rainforest for a look at ancient tea trees. It is by no means an easy journey – while some might enjoy an “All Downhill” bike trip, we at The Hutong think that the wonderfully fresh meals and expansive scenery are enjoyed best when earned with a tough uphill.

Biking Difficulty:
3.5 out of 5 (you do not need to be a Tour de France rider, but you will need to be able to take on some hills).

To reserve your space and receive an itinerary, contact morgan@thehutong.com to escape the Beijing winter blues and usher in the Chinese New Year (that happens to be a leap year) in warmer climate.

Photos: Courtesy of The Hutong