Stepping into Jahanavi Bhaskar Laag‘s studio is like stepping into a sparkling accessory wardrobe in India. We’re thankful for that, via her brand Ishaveya, Laag has brought to Beijing a collection of jewelry brands with gorgeous collections of necklaces, bracelets, and earrings set with semi-precious stones and one-of-a-kind cuts, all the way from Delhi, LA, and Calcutta. In light of the recent launch of Laag’s winter collection, we sat down with her and got her to spill on her jewelry, her shopping habits, and her dream closet.

How do you choose the pieces for your shop?
A lot of it is about keeping your eyes open seeing who is doing well, what’s catches my eye, and who is breaking boundaries. It’s about finding someone who has a balance between the craft of India and the fashion of the West. Sometimes, if it’s too ethnic it doesn’t work.

Who buys from Ishaveya?
The kind of woman that buys from me is often young and ambitious or slightly older and in a very steady point in their life where they’re willing to spend a little bit extra for the real deal. I don’t work in costume jewelry, and I don’t work in artificial jewelry, I only work in semi precious stones because I believe there is a value for money.

 I assume I wouldn’t catch you wearing costume jewelry then.
When I started attending events, dinners, I wanted to be a little bit more refined. Either you have something that is costume, but is so unique in its design that you’re like, "This is unbelievable, this is totally individual." That’s great. But if that’s not the case, then I’m really not so excited to spend so much money on something that’s plastic.

How do you find shopping in Beijing, where a lot of items are famous for being fake?
Don’t get me wrong, I have a shoe problem … For me it’s not about brands, it’s about design. You can be a great brand and have the most horrendous clothes. And you can be an unknown designer and have incredible pieces. Even now when you go to 3.3., you see new and upcoming Chinese designers tucked away there. I like the silk market and Yashow because for me it’s all about finding the diamonds in the rough.

So you have a ‘shoe problem’. How many shoes do you have?
My mom calls me Imelda Marcos. She had the largest amount of shoes in the world.

Do you have all of them in Beijing?
I have most of them in Beijing. My husband had my last apartment redone, and when I came to Beijing, he said there was a surprise for me. He had taken the ayi room and turned it into a walk-in closet. It was about the size of this office, and I just started crying and said, "I love you so much, I’m so happy I married you. You made it all worth it!" It had space for shoes everywhere, and you could see them all. They were all color coordinated.

Wow, that’s great!
… And then I moved to my new apartment, and I have like eight different closets and I can’t find anything. It’s disastrous.

What designers should we look out for at Ishaveya?
Watch for Isharya. They’re doing phenomenal.

This blog post first appeared on thebeijinger.com on November 14, 2014.

Photos: Courtesy of Ishaveya, Mitchell Pe Masilun

Food markets are everywhere in Beijing, from designated tents to the footpath in front of your home. But when you go to grab for that vegetable, how do you know where it comes from? Here’s a guide of where to shop around town. There are plenty of online options for local and organic produce too, but we say there’s something more satisfying about going in person – you can see the vegetables for yourself and ask questions. The next step suggested by organizers? Pay a visit to the farms.

Veg*n Bash
For the organizers of this monthly market, environmental awareness is no joke – they insist you bring your own take-away containers and cutlery for getting in on the vegan and vegetarian food provided by farmers, restaurants and small business owners. If you forget, they have biodegradable, one-use utensils and containers for sale, or you just may need to wait until you get home to chow down. Aside from food, this market features green clothes and accessories, and household goods.
Number of vendors: 15
We recommend: If you’re hankering for an exceptionally nutritious salad, try Western-style kale from the Hao Ge Farm in Tongzhou District.
Contact: Check out their Weibo blog at blog.sina.com.cn/u/3314895873 for more information.
Location: Canadian International School of Beijing, 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (136 8128 0119)
朝阳区亮马桥路38号

Beijing Organic Farmers’ Market (Country Fair)
The Country Fair is the longest running and largest farmers’ market in Beijing, and while it’s probably best known for its stint in Nali Patio, it pops up in different locations. While “organic” is in their name, the majority of the independent farmers aren’t certified by national or international standards because of the high costs. However, organizers emphasize that the growers they work with use only trusted practices (no anti-biotics in meat, little or no conventional pesticides, etc.).

The ratio of fruits and vegetables to other food and gift items is one that favors those making artisanal jams and spreads, honey, skincare products, tea and even meats and cheese. Expect new vendors often. They can some-times be difficult to pin down, so for those who like to count on regular produce availability they can check out Country Fair’s newest endeavor, a community market in Sanyuanqiao’s Phoenix City.
Number of vendors: 40+
We recommend: Homemade pesto by De Run Wu, a family-run organic farm in Changping District. They use their own basil, which has been praised by World Health Store as “bursting with flavor.”
Contact: Join their mailing list at farmersmarketbj@gmail.comto find out their next location.

Community Market
A traveling farmers’ market may mean you’re always one step behind the vegetables, so those behind the Country Fair (opposite) decided to solve that problem by opening a community center and grocery store in Sanyuan-qiao’s Phoenix City. Not only can you find most of the items on sale at the traveling market, but they host corporate and public events such as a speaker series, organized farm visits, and children’s activities aimed at raising awareness of sustainability.
Number of vendors:40+
We recommend: I f you thought cheese was difficult to come by in Beijing, think again. Liu Yang, the French artisanal cheese maker behind Le Fromager de Pekin, sells his latest dairy endeavors that are hard to pass up when there are fresh organic grapes just a few stalls away.
Contact: See opposite
Daily 10am-9pm. N33 Phoenix City
Location: Shopping Street, Shuguang Xili, Chaoyang District (5742 8210)
朝阳门曙光西里甲5字幕凤凰城的
商业街N33号

Farm to Neighbors
The newest market to hit the city to date, Farm to Neighbors is the effort of Vice’s Creator’s Project editor Erica Huang, whose own qualms with food allergies and safe production methods motivated her to start seeking out local farmers who follow organic and eco friendly practices. While it’s currently an intimate venture, the number of farmers and food makers Huang is cooperating with is growing. You’ll see a steady participant or two, including Choonisang Vegetables, who host the only “organic” stall at Sanyuanli Market. Huang’s market uses Modernista’s space, so guests don’t have to wait until they get home to try the food as Modernista’s chefs will prepare healthy brunch items with a selection of the produce on stock.

Number of vendors: 5+
We recommend: Charlie’s Bacon by the Kitchen Collective, made with free-range pork belly and hickory-smoked in a hutong courtyard. Ask about availabilty ahead of time as vendors change.
Contact: For more info, friend “farm2neighbors” on WeChat.
Location: Sundays Noon-6pm. Modernista. 44 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District (136 9142 5744)
东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44号

This post first appeared on thebeijinger.com on October 4, 2014.

Photos: the Beijinger

Can’t have a pet in Beijing, but still want to help those furry critters in need? Now’s your chance to really make a difference: The Little Adoption Shop is calling for donations again to help keep his animal shelter up and running. Here’s a note from its founder, Christopher Barden:

"The Little Adoption Shop currently has more than 150 dogs in our care, and we are under constant pressure to meet our food, rent, medical and other expenses. We currently have a very safe shelter in the countryside, and an adoption center located in Shunyi, across from Euro Plaza, on the north side of the International Convention Center. Things are tough for us financially, but we are proud of the work we are doing to make it easier for rescued animals to find new homes.

We currently have seriously overdue bills, and we urgently need help!

Thank you for kindness and generosity."

If you want to donate, you can do it through Paypal here, or go to any Doctors Beck & Stone Pet Health Care Center in China. You can also use any one of the following links or make a donation:

Weibo
Facebook
Website

More information on accounts and the dog shelter can be found here.

In the meantime, if you find yourself wanting a pet of your own, check out our "Doggy/Moggy of the Week"

This post first appeared on thebeijinger.com on August 19, 2014.

Photo: courtesy of Little Adoption Shop.

When I was assigned to take photos of the rubble around the Drum and Bell Towers, I had no idea what I was in for. Although I have been living around the Gulou area for three years, it had been some time since I had passed through the hutongs that snaked around the ancient structures. The last time I was there, it was lively. Queues of rickshaw drivers threatened to knock me off the path, badminton was everywhere, tourists flocked in and out of the countless cafes, bars, and shops.

This area was part of my favorite walking paths in Beijing just before sundown because, amazingly, it was the only place in the city I knew that could be buzzing, yet somehow, slow paced.

My fond memories don’t have much weight against those of the residents who have spent years in this area and now have had their fears realized, witnessing their homes and restaurants get tacked with demolition notices.

I asked Dustin Duan of Excuse Coffee, who has taken over Zajia Cafe (which will thankfully remain untouched) during daytime hours, whether or not the lots would be used for an underground shopping mall, like what has been previously assumed and protested. Duan’s shop has been torn down, unlike its neighbors, Au Goulot and Drum and Bell Bar, but he says it’s only a matter of time. He says it’s expected that the area will be transformed into a "courtyard" space, used primarily for offices, residences, and small restaurants and bars because that will ultimately be worth more money. It will be made to look "old", he says.

"They hope that 200 years from now, this area can look like an antique again," he says. "But they won’t reveal exactly what it’s going to be. They can’t. If they did, people would fight it."

Wrecking was in progress as I wandered around, snapping what remained of the rubble. I wasn’t the only one taking photos either. A few others had joined me, hoping to preserve what was left on their cameras. Residents who have been the last to leave stubbornly played mahjong outside their blocked off courtyard. Unknowing kids made the most of the unattended and overgrown lot.

Meanwhile, a lone rickshaw driver asked if people wanted tours of old Beijing.

This post first appeared on thebeijinger.com on July 30, 2014

Photos: Jessica Rapp

The Talking Travel Desk is out traveling, so for this edition, Jessica Rapp takes you to Guangzhou. Until the next post, one road flat safe.

More than a hundred years ago, Guangzhou was a place of uprising, its neighboring county, Xiangshan, being the birthplace of Chinese revolutionary Sun Yat-sen. These days, though, portrayal of the seaport city often gives its significant historical value a miss, with more travel guides pegging it instead as one of China’s most modern and wealthy cities. We agree – it’s difficult to ignore that sprawling, complex highway system and those sparkling shopping malls, and if these wonders don’t convince you to make the three-hour trip by plane, then surely it will be the outrageously cheap deals in wholesale markets bustling with African, Middle Eastern and Chinese traders.

What to See: Guangzhou is a bargain shopper’s heaven. Start at the center of Tianhe District, where the malls have a range of both high-end and street labels on offer, and then have a look at Guangyuan Xilu for wholesale clothing options. You’ll have to dig, but you won’t have to haggle. Need a wig to complete your look? Get those, along with vibrant Ankara fabric at the African market on Xiaobei Lu. On the weekend from 3-10pm, head to Haizhu District for Guangzhou’s biggest flea market, Mafa Bazaar, with more than 60 vendors selling everything from homemade food and handicrafts to vintage clothing and furniture. Once you’ve exhausted the shopping bug, go to the city center and take a ride to the top of the 600m tall Canton Tower.

Where to Stay: There’s no shortage of good budget options for a mindful traveler, including RiverSide YHA, which is located next to the Pearl River and near a spread of old factories that have been transformed into an art and culture district. For a seamless and more luxurious stay, try the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, a sleek and contemporary offering from Swire (the company who created Taikoo Li), conveniently located close to a handful of 24-hour dim sum restaurants and cafes.

Where to Dine: Many Guangzhou locals will claim their food is better than the offerings in Beijing, and after a lavish sampling of dim sum by Mandarin Oriental’s Chef Fei, you just might believe them. Try the bulging shrimp dumplings or walnut paste buns at Guangzhou Restaurant (Guangzhou Jie Jia , 广州饭店), known for its longevity, or schlep to Mei Xin Garden in Tianhe District, highly regarded for its Chiuchow Steamed Dumplings. Wash it all down with a pint of Xurry’s Porter by Strand Brewing, Guangzhou’s tenderfoot of China’s craft brew scene.

This post first appeared on thebeijinger.com on July 31, 2014.

Photos: Jessica Rapp

See those paper bags down there? Those were full of juicy organic peaches and nectarines from Haidian farmer, Mumu, and on Sunday July 27, you could take home a sack for just RMB 10. That was the deal at the new Farm To Neighbors market at Modernista and we were ecstatic. They promise similar steals every Sunday, alongside a special cocktail and brunch menu, a selection of vegetables, and a few special guests.

The weekly event was launched by three-year expat, Erica Huang, who also has a full-time job with Vice’s The Creator’s Project. After two years of battling issues with food in China, Huang decided it was time to take matters into her own hands and find healthier sources for her produce and eggs. She began befriending local farmers, including the eco-friendly farm, Choonisang Vegetables, who normally have a booth set up at the Sanyuanli Market.

You’ll find them here, along with a variety of Huang’s other contacts, including a duo who make yogurt with yak’s milk from Tibet in a little shop on Jiaodaokou. They have their own delivery cart and will personally take you bowls of the stuff which you can use to make cheesecake or simply topped with fruit and honey. Yak’s yogurt is hard to find in Beijing, but according to the International Yak Association, Himalayan herders drink up to forty cups of the fatty dairy a day. Now you can see what you’re missing out on.

Huang says she plans to change up the participants depending on what’s available, but she’s still looking for feedback depending on what customers in the area are looking for. She also hesitates to group all produce at her market "organic" because the requirements to be a certified "organic" farm in China are high and many farmers can’t realistically meet them (i.e., if a farm is located next to a non-organic farm, it cannot be certified organic). However, she assures that the products you’ll find at Farm to Neighbors are from trusted sources who are using mostly "organic" or eco-friendly practices.

Meanwhile, the chefs at Modernista use what’s available at the market to whip up tasty brunch items. Yesterday, they offered dishes like a Swiss chard omelette, peach crepes, and peach sangria. Mouth watering yet?

Farm to Neighbors Organic Market
Sundays Noon-6pm. Modernista. 44 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District (136 9142 5744)
东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44号

Wechat: farm2neighbors

Find out where I’m eating and drinking on Instagram: @jrapppp

This post first appeared on thebeijinger.com on July 28, 2014.

Photos: Jessica Rapp

At one time, it was acceptable to shotgun a pack of Tsingtao tall boys outside Propaganda, then teeter over to the neighboring 7-11 and vomit proud. Then you grew up. You became more responsible. You discovered craft beer.

Ice cream is like this. You dabble in milk ice, nurse the inevitable stomach ache after going for the twice-frozen chocolate cone. The red bean, the green bean, the purple one, the grayish one, the one you peel like a banana – all of it is the prized loot of a treasure hunt at every magazine stand ice box. One day, you realize it’s all crap. You turn to Haagen-Dazs for moral support. You go broke. You denounce ice cream for life. Then, you meet The Joker’s ice cream doppelganger, the melty grin of the infamous “Xiao Xuesheng” ice pop by Mengniu whose likeness is now the mascot of Gelato Stick, 3.3’s newest venue.

Gelato Stick’s offerings, at first glance, look like the cupcakes of the ice cream world, and if we know anything about Beijing’s version of the cupcake fad, we know they can go terribly, horribly wrong. But under all those puffy sprinkles and dog paw manifestations of flavors like hazelnut and cherry is damn good gelato. The RMB 25 pops are rich and creamy enough that you can feel classy, if you don’t mind killing a sickeningly cute Pepto Bismol-colored heart with your jaws. Gelato Stick even stays open until 1am, so after getting sloshed on the cheap on bar street or sipping martinis on Nali Patio you can satisfy your dessert cravings.

We recommend you try the pistachio stick, if only because it’s green without being matcha, a rarity. The one that looks like Ritter Sport’s dairy brother disappointingly lacks the taste or texture of an oversized chocolate bar, but Gelato Stick still surprises: just the right amount of filling is hidden inside every bar to tease that reckless youth out of you. 

Gelato Stick
Daily 1pm-1am. 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6517 5888)
朝阳区三里屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商
500m west of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)

This post first appeared on thebeijinger.com on June 26, 2014

Photo courtesy of the Beijinger

What I wouldn’t give for a supermarket café. Imagine if Jingkelong offered a small diner-style space where you could snag a freshly made Chinese donut and a cup of green tea, settle atop a silver stool and chitchat with fellow shoppers. There’s something incredibly convenient and sensible about eating at a grocery store. That’s why I was thrilled when a Shunyi resident informed me Jenny Wang’s in Pinnacle Plaza opened a restaurant. I pictured Jenny’s enterprise as being a lively, brightly lit deli with a green interior and shelves of freshly baked bread. It might smell like cake batter and stock organic juices and cream sodas in a buzzing fridge.

But Jenny’s Hidden Cellar was dark and dusty. Beams of light over-exposed stuffy, white tablecloths and wine racks through kitschy, white window screens. Its menu, christened with the phrase “Life’s Simple Luxuries” was a familiar one – a grab bag of steaks, pastas and cuisines from around the world.

I was halfway through my confused American “fragrant-fried” spring chicken (RMB 68), prepared rotisserie-style and presented with the head still intact, when the chef admitted they actually had no affiliation with their supermarket neighbor.

With that cleared up, however, I was able to appraise Jenny’s without my grand, mom and pop diner expectations. Strictly speaking, the place wasn’t so bad. Their house carbonara (RMB 48) was addictively salty and creamy, the homemade bread and butter pudding (RMB 32) had a luscious layer of caramelized sugar crystals, and their waitstaff left me complaint-free.

When I saw their plastic to-go bags, printed so boldly and plainly with “Jenny’s” in blue capital letters, I realized that underneath its farcical fanciness, Jenny’s Hidden Cellar can do the basics. A hungry grocery shopper doesn’t need much more than that. Jessica Rapp

Jenny’s Hidden Cellar
Daily 10.30am-10.30pm. 2/F, Pinnacle Plaza (next to Jenny Wang), Yuyang Lu, Tianzhu,
Shunyi District (8046 2836)
顺义天竺镇榆阳路荣祥广场对面Jenny Wang超市旁边2楼
1km southeast of China International Exhibition Center station (Line 15)

This post first appeared on thebeijinger.com on June 22, 2014

Photo courtesy of thebeijinger.com

If you haven’t nailed down a turkey or ham dinner to celebrate the holiday season yet, don’t lose your feathers – we’ve picked out our top spots to dine in the city on Christmas Day. But if you have the house party nailed down, here are some last minute tips on where to snag the meat, the cookies, and last-minute decorations. Don’t see anything that suits you here? Check out our Events for more great dining options spanning the next 48 hours.

EAST Beijing
Feast (Food by EAST) is serving special Christmas Day menu which includes a glass of mulled wine on arrival. Starters and dessert are on the food market and the main we deliver to the table. (Kids’ corner is also available for the children).

The Schoolhouse at Mutianyu
The Schoolhouse promises a meal, warm fire, live jazz, and cookie making classes for the kids.

Garden Court
The award winning Champagne Brunch invites you to a Christmas day celebration with all the festive favorites. RMB588* per person with free flow of Champagne. Children under 6 at half price.Price is subject to 15% service charge. 11:30 am to 3:00 pm. St.Regis Beijing (6460 6688)

Kempinski
There are brunch options of live lobster, foie gras, American turkey and delectable European desserts, paired with free-flowing wines, beers, soft drinks, a selected choice of cocktails and live music from our house jazz band.RMB 558 per person (children aged 6-12 half price) All prices are in RMB and subject to 15% surcharge. Kempinski (6465 3388 ext. 4222)

Check out our Events for more great dining options spanning the next 48 hours.

This post has been modified and a version first appeared on thebeijinger on December 24.

Photo courtesy of Gene Hunt (Flickr)