The epicenter of any decent Long Table should be a well designed and executed menu that engages the senses and elevates your dining experience above that of just merely working yourself through a few courses. The table should be a hub, with a layered combination of good food, drinks, conversation, and laughter.

Jing-A Brewpub Xingfucun has long been a staple for craft beer lovers and has always provided some of the best smoked plates of meat to partner your hoppy choice of beverage, along with an assortment of pickled and salty sides. Now their new Executive Chef Simone Thompson is taking it up a notch with a monthly Long Table Series, which combines her love for regional and fusion fare from around the globe with family-style dining.

Designed to provide an intimate but communal experience, “Long Table” dining has always been one of my favorite ways to enjoy a love of good food, and the new series at Jing-A provides just that and then some. Prepare to be transported into other worlds, as you take a seat to partake of a generous three-course family-style meal with expertly paired craft beer.

Communal dining makes for fun times

Perfect for date nights with a twist, a dining experience with out-of-town visitors, or just for the love of making new friends, these suppers, held once a month, are what Sunday evenings should be made of. The specially curated menu at the launch of the series was impeccable and the perfect opportunity for guests to break from the ordinary and enjoy some of Jing-A’s most interesting and complex beers.

The Lychee Xanadu

Artisan breads with woody and herby dips were a welcome treat that you had to be cautious not to devour before the epic mains.

Sourdough, pita, and burekas, served with muhammara, hummus, and beetroot and zaatar dips

The lamb shoulder was melt-in-the-mouth, and rather than the sides taking up residence on the table as an after- thought, they supported the heady and robust flavors.

Slow-Cooked Smoked Lamb Shoulder

Spinach, red onion, and almond salad, mint, rocket, and lemon salad, and kohlrabi, orchette pasta

However the rich cardamom and dark chocolate tart with stone fruit compote was the perfect ending to a wonderful set of plates. The tart was balanced with richness, bitterness, and sweetness, and for those wanting less of a hearty hit of cocoa; there were beautifully light mandarin wheat syrup cakes with mascarpone. There’s not much else to say but yum – and please madam, may I have some more?

Cardamom, dark chocolate, and stone fruit tart, and mandarin wheat syrup cakes with mascarpone

The Lychee Xanadu reminded me of an elevated citrus cider and had a dry finish; wonderful for midsummer Long Table dining or alternatively dining alfresco. The collaboration with Jordanian Brewery, Carakale, produced a beer that was paired with the second course and was my favorite. Not too dry, with each sip revealing new hidden depths, full of spice and leafy tea notes. The Dongbei IPA is not for the faint-hearted, and packed a punch served ice-cold with an unusual but enjoyable full-bodied tang.

Each month, guests will be taken on a culinary journey to explore different regional fare or experiment with unique culinary techniques. The stars of the gastronomic experience will be both the cuisine and the craft beer, and Thompson and the team have done well to create the right kind of atmosphere that’s ripe for conversation and silence-inducing morsels of delectable food. Get yourself over to Jing-A Brewingpub Xingfucun for the next Long Table. Table is limited to 16 seats. You can thank me later.

Adults. RMB 338. 6pm – 9pm. Once a month (next date TBC). Jing-A Brewery, 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Dongzhimen, Chaoyang District. www.jingabrewing.com/10 6416 5195

Photos: Nicole Bonnah, Pixabay

Dining on Cloud 9

This time around in our Date Night venue review of the week, we hope you can handle high altitudes of love, romance, and fine dining. Be prepared to enter an oasis of calm and charm as you watch the world go by on the 39th floor of The View 3912.

The name, of course, alludes to what to expect on an evening dining high up in the sky; The View 3912 indeed has quite the view. Dining while overlooking a twinkling city landscape at night is definitely the kind of romance starter you need, especially on Valentines Day. You’ll be hard pressed to find a better place to feel like you are on top of the world with your loved one.

The space is intimate, frequented by those looking for a place to pop the question. In fact, I was sat at the restaurants prized table, adorned with a plaque displaying the number of proposals that has taken place so far at that very spot (3,387). As gimmicky as one might find this, it was genuinely warming to hear of the owner talk with pride and appreciation for couples that had chosen to share one of their momentous occasions at this particular place among many others.

The décor is French chic meets ancient Rome, with dried and fresh wild follows decorating the entrance table, a French bistro style bar and Baroque style furnishings. If you want to be surrounded by all things romance, then this is the restaurant for you.

On arrival, I was presented with a glass of Moscato, followed by a canapé of fried potato and sweet chutney. The appetizer was show stopping, and was all about the pomp and ceremony but delivered equally on taste. The Goose Liver Cuban Cigar, served in a Cigar Box was light and gamey with a crunch. The delicate Foie Gras neatly rolled and incased in a crispy tuiles was presented beautifully and as I opened the box, the smokey aroma of Cuban tobacco met me just before taking a bite; this is a dish that invites all of the senses to engage.

The French mushroom soup was creamy and frothy, and tasted like it had been whipped into a light foam and was decadently flavored with truffle and cream. To be honest, I could have gone for a high-street serving of this, rather than the minuscule fine dining portion I received. It was delicious, but just didn’t last long enough!

The Sea Bass was melt in the mouth and meaty. Plated with a sharp blueberry compote, edible flowers and a creamy sauce, the first impression was that the flavor combinations might be a little on the bizarre side, however this dish was a delight to eat and all the flavors worked in harmony with one another.

The crème da la crème of the night’s dishes has to be the perfectly cooked Australian fillet steak. Presented in a smoking aromatic box, served with crispy seasonal vegetables, peas puree, and red wine jus, the beef was well seasoned and tasty. The sides need beefing out a little and one might feel like they need extra carbs in the form of mash potato or a potato gratin for instance. That being said, this was the perfect end to the savories for the evening.

The cinematic finale was a duo of sweet French desserts. The selection of desserts change each week and so provide an element of surprise at the end of the dining experience. Dark chocolate, fruit and mango ice cream with a sugar snap and popping candy was yum, followed by petite fleur on ice!

The restaurant has a selection of set menus to choose from and this particular six-course set menu will set you back RMB 680 per person. For an extra RMB 260 you can also enjoy a selection of paired red and white wines.

I am partial to a little fine dining as long as it isn’t too pretentious and I don’t leave hungry, heading for the nearest 24-hour McDonalds! However, The View 3912 was something special. I didn’t leave hungry, but definitely wanted more. For special occasions and when showing off the city to visiting family and friends, I would give this go.

Enjoy the view!

Photos: Nicole Bonnah

Mosto has long been a heavyweight among the Nali Patio dining spots offering casual luxury. Their menu is an experimental take on South American Cuisine, also taking inspiration from Asia, North America, and Europe. It’s a fusion restaurant that shapes up to be a perfect example of why mixing it up always pays.

The meal began with one of three “small plates”. The Smokey Salmon Tataki (RMB 88), seared smoked salmon dressed in orange-ginger teriyaki and black sesame seeds, was a refreshing and tasty start to the evening, and may require that you unashamedly wipe the plate clean with a freshly baked white mini-loaf from the breadbasket.

Smokey Salmon Tataki

I’ve always known Prawn Pil Pil as a dish prepared using olive oil and garlic or sweetened using tomato passata, so I was intrigued by the Chilean Pil Pil (RMB 88), with prawn and squid dressed in a white wine sauce with cilantro. The seafood was perfectly cooked; however, the soft fondant potato that sat beneath the generous portion of squid need not be there.

Chilean Pil Pil

For me, the Japanese Scallops (RMB 125) stole the starter show. Sweet and precisely cooked scallops sitting on a bed of sautéed shiitake mushrooms were divine, and were perfectly matched with a herby parsley sauce and sweet onion compote. This had to be one of my favorites of the evening and will likely go very quickly, so if you need to, order extra scallops for RMB 30 apiece. Ready, steady, prepare to be walloped by the scallops.

Japanese Scallops

The Boston Lobster (RMB 450) has potential to be a show-stopping plate but falls just shy of taking the crown due to the overpowering richness and overzealous quantity of butter which dresses the already rich risotto. Omitting the soaked plums and reworking the presentation would do wonders for a dish that has the makings of an opulent and oh-so-indulgent romance starter.

Boston Lobster

You never need an excuse to order a cheese board, so try Mosto’s Charcuterie Board. It’s cheese and premium cold cuts. Need I say any more?

What should be your go-to dish is the well-seasoned and seared beef tenderloin (RMB 228), which can be served with a side and sauce of your choice. Melt-in-the-mouth imported beef did not disappoint, along with a generous portion of red wine sauce and potato gratin. Other sides and sauces available to pair with the beef (cooked to your liking) include truffle mashed potato, roasted pumpkin, blue cheese sauce, and avocado salsa. This steak is not just a basic steak; it’s a Mosto steak. Say “cheers” to the night and the steak with a glass of Malbec (RMB 75).

Beef Tenderloin

To complete the evening, the manager recommended the chocolate soufflé. Dark chocolate with a lava center was indulgently washed down with a glass of Prosecco (RMB 65). A passion fruit coulis cuts through the richness and adds a pleasant palate-cleansing finish to the dish. If this isn’t the luxurious ending that all couples should experience on a date night, I don’t know what is!

Against a backdrop of exposed brick and candlelight, Mosto has instant flair and notes of bohemian charm, but unfortunately can be let down at times by lackluster service. This can be forgiven when knocking back one of their finer offerings, such as their Whiskey Sour (RMB 65); sweeter than usually prepared and finished with a frothy and fragrant egg white foam, this yumminess in a glass will prepare you to enjoy South American contemporary fare that you may just decide to make a regular trip for.

Whiskey Sour (left) Espresso Martini (right)

Top Tip: Order the Espresso Martini (RMB 80) with or for dessert. Well-balanced coffee, vodka, Kahlua, and Baileys will keep tiredness at bay, sweeten the tooth and add some warmth to your night (not that you’ll need it.)

Mosto
D308, 3/F Nali Huayuan, No.81 Sanlitun Bar Street, Chaoyang District (010 5208 6030) 朝阳区三里屯酒吧街81号那里花园3楼D308号 (近三里屯VILLAGE)

Photos: Nicole Bonnah, www.chifanforcharity.org

It’s time to take you on another culinary journey! It’s date night, and I’ve taken your weekly or monthly need for romance, good food, and glamorously seductive surroundings to a whole new level. Be prepared to be spoiled for choice.

Jing Yaa Tang: Sophisticated Hedonism

Nestled beneath the calming oasis that is Opposite House Hotel you will find a touch of unpretentious class. This one is for the discerning date night foodie, who will enjoy an eclectic mix of some of China’s best-loved and most inspired cuisines.

In this former nightclub, now a mood-lit and modern dining space, friendly and knowledgeable staff await to help you peruse the concise but colorful menu. Let the well-traveled and experienced front-of-house team take care of you, with paired wines poured by their resident sommelier, and beautifully presented dishes that deliver on both elegance and flavor.

Punchy, sweet cherry tomatoes in plum sauce (RMB 58) burst in the mouth to provide you with an appetizer that could just as well be a dessert or sweet palate cleanser. This dish was a surprising and robust element among the flawless, flavorsome bowls I devoured before the main; Sichuan poached chicken with crushed peanuts in spicy sauce (RMB 78), tea plant mushroom salad with Meiji dressing (RMB 78), and botan shrimp with ginger dressing (RMB 118). Simply divine.

Cherry tomatoes in plum sauce, Sichuan poached chicken in spicy sauce, and tea plant mushroom salad

Don’t let the starched linen covered tabletops deceive you. No one is trading in substance for style. This is fine dining with a hedonistic and modern flair epitomized by such dishes as the Jing Yaa Tang pork ribs in spicy black bean sauce (RMB 198). Guests can also enjoy well-executed classic offerings like stir-fried string beans with minced pork (RMB 68). Whatever you do, don’t leave without ordering the “three cups” clay pot with cod fish and basil (RMB 228). A little more on the pricey side, but worth the extra Renminbi for an experience I can only describe as heavenly.

Jing Yaa Tang Pork Ribs

If you’ve frequented just a few Chinese restaurants in the Jing, you will know that most will offer some variation of Chinese fried rice (chǎo fàn), and here you will find what I believe to be a superior take on the humble staple. Shaved dried scallop, organic egg, and beautifully cooked shrimp dress white grains of seasoned rice in their Jing Yaa Tang fried rice (RMB 128). A cut above all the rest.

Jing Yaa Tang Fried Rice

All this, washed down with a Sauvignon Blanc (RMB 85 per glass) to pair the starters, and a Pinot Noir (RMB 120 per glass) for the pièce de résistance that was the Jing Yaa Tang Roast Duck (RMB 188, half/ RMB 328, whole). Hung and dried in-house for 24 hours before cooking, the duck really is a showstopper, not because of the usual ceremonial carving at the table, but because of the quality of the duck served, with exceptionally crispy skin that melts in the mouth. If you really want to impress on date night, this is the way to go.

The simple equation that leads to all successful date nights is atmospheric surroundings, plus good food. Jing Yaa Tang has perfectly partnered these two elements and takes you on a refined culinary expedition of China’s expansive regional delicacies.

Top tip: Before taking to your seats, take a look at the installations on loan in the exhibition hall in the lobby area of the hotel, and grab a cocktail at Mesh. The Jing Yaa Tang (RMB 88) is fab: a sweet take on the classic whiskey sour with notes of orange in the finish. Enjoy!

Opposite House
Taikoo Li (Lower Ground Level) Sanlitun North, No. 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District (www.theoppositehouse.com/10 6410 5230) 朝阳三里屯路11号太古里北区地下1层

If you haven’t yet carved out a night in the week to enjoy a date night, the following venues will make you think twice! Get the ayi in, put the glad rags on, and paint the town red at one of these gorgeous date night hot spots.

Pachapapi

Take advantage of the single Peruvian establishment in town. Go and enjoy fusion Peruvian fare at its best with authentic and unique dishes that will not only impress but also far exceed expectations for those who are both new and familiar with the culinary delights all the way from the vibrant haunts of South America.

Next to Culinary favorites, Bottega, Q-Mex Taqueria, and Boxing Cat Brewery you’ll find this newest addition in Jinshang against an eye-catching backdrop of Peruvian pop culture; band and festival posters and screens bringing you a taste of what’s to come through foodie documentaries.

Squid Ceviche

Not only can you enjoy Pachpapi’s take on Peruvian multicultural cuisine but a host of live bands that take up residence on the weekends. From classics such as Squid Ceviche (RMB 98) to more fusion-esque offerings such as their Pacha Sushi roll (RMB 78) there are lots to enjoy on a night out at this unique venue. Don’t forget to try their whopingly potent and sweet cocktails to get you into the date night mood.

Hudson

Fancy taking it up a notch? If so then Manhattan-style Bistro Hudson should definitely be your choice of date night venue. Located in the super posh CBD area, on the second floor of the World Financial Center, you will find an art-deco oasis that will bring you New York style dining vibes!

The restaurant has a main dining area which splits off into a sophisticated bar area. In WFC’s light-filled atrium you will find a number of tables, perfect for a date brunch if that’s more your thing. Enjoy a selection of signature cocktails with your loved one (RMB 88). The F&C and G&T are pleasantly finished off with yellow Chartreuse and fresh dill. Yum! The menu designed by Bangkok-based Chef Dallas Cuddy offers a selection of small and large plates alongside tasty raw dishes like oysters and steak tartare. Go family style and share a few dishes or if you prefer you could feed one another from your own traditional appetizer-entrée-dessert options.

White Asparagus with Boiled Egg

Presentation is exceptional and ingredients sustainably sourced. The White asparagus with soft boiled egg for example (RMB 78),  is beautifully presented as is the bresoala with soft polenta and slow-cooked egg (RMB 78). Whatever your choice, this date night venue will be a hard one to outshine.

The Georg

Danish lifestyle brand Georg Jensen (best known for their silver ware) has a concept dining space on the banks of the Jade River in Houhai. If you’re looking to up the romance on your special date night then this one is for you. In the restored Hutong area just west of the south entrance of Nanluogu Xiang, you’ll find The Georg, a stylist haunt with lounge, restaurant, and gallery displaying their designer products.

Every dish on the menu is priced at RMB 130 and is designed with quality and simplicity in mind. If you’re looking to impress have the Chef whip up a set menu for the table for RMB 450 per person and wine pairings for the same cost.

Enjoy dishes like shrimp –egg – tarragon and seared cod – kale – barley. The names don’t reveal much but adds a touch of mystery and an element of surprise to the experience. Pair whatever you’re drinking with their signature Oyster dish – the classic romance starter.  This is simply wining and dining at its best. Go Check it out!

Taco Bar

Now this may be a familiar staple for many on a Friday night out, but I for one have enjoyed many awesome date nights at this laid back and super cool Mexican joint; knocking back passion fruit white sangrias (RMB 45), chomping on the best guacamole I’ve happen to taste in the whole of Beijing (Bar, my own homemade version), and ordering way too many appetizers before the tacos come because they are just –that – good!

Your go-to’s should definitely be the homemade tortilla chips with their generous serving of zesty guacamole and zingy salsa (RMB 50/75), super crispy and perfectly seasoned calamari (RMB 55), followed by your choice of taco’s (My favorite is the Camarones (Grilled Jumbo prawns, RMB 75), and wash it all down with one of their easy drinking and yummy margaritas.

The outside patio may be of no use to you now that winter has arrived, however the dim-lit and modern deco of the interior is inviting, unpretentious, and modern. Take a seat inside and relax. This is affordable and delicious dining for the discerning Mexican foodie! If you really want to go all out – get two for one tacos on Tuesdays. Enjoy good vibes and super tasty sharing bowls of comfy, homes-style food, generous signature cocktails and what are arguably the best tacos in the city. This is superior casual but funky dining.You’re welcome.

Photos: Anna Hartley Pellegrin, courtesy of Pachapapi, Robynne Tindall, courtesy of Hudson, www.bespoketravelcompany.com, Kipp Whittaker, www.tacobarchina.com

Cuisine is at the heart of any culture. The food we grew up loving always has a place in our hearts, however, open we are to new culinary experiences. But one culture’s comfort food is another’s challenging experience. Fried pork liver can be too much for western palates, while strong cheese is often a shock to those raised on Chinese cuisine. We talked to two mixed culture families about how they manage these differences and get cultures to mingle on the dinner table.

Video game producer Peter Long likes to tell people he met his wife Shelby at a party, but Shelby let us in on a secret: they really met using a Chinese dating app! They’ve named their cat Tantan after the app that brought them together. Shelby is originally from Minnesota and now works as a teacher. She enjoys traveling and cycling, while Hunan-born Peter likes video games and basketball. They’ve just celebrated the birth of their first child, Riley.

Do you both enjoy food from each other’s country? Is there anything about the cuisine of the other culture that you find difficult to enjoy?
We both eat a variety of foods from each other’s countries without problems. I will never get used to eating rice multiple times a day, no matter how strange my in-laws find it. My husband will eat almost any Western food except mustard.

Have you tried any particular dishes from your spouse’s country that were challenging? How did you compromise between your different eating habits?
Nothing dramatic. In general, if one of us likes a food the other doesn’t, we eat it sparingly or order it for ourselves at restaurants and it’s no big deal. When we cook at home we make things both of us like.

Where does your family stand when it comes to dining customs such as the Chinese way of sharing dishes, versus the Western way of serving individual plates?
It depends on what we’re eating. For Chinese food we eat family-style, and when we cook Western food we eat individually.

Do you have any preferences when cooking for your children? Which type of food does your child prefer?
Our child is too young for anything but milk, but we both want to discourage picky eating and plan on introducing her to all kinds of different foods and cuisines.

Do you have a family meal together at least once a day? Is this important to your family?
We almost always eat dinner together. As our daughter gets older I plan on enforcing a “no phones” rule at the dinner table.

Who is usually the “Chef” in the family? What’s the go-to dish that the whole family enjoys?
It depends on what style food we’re making, but since it’s more convenient to buy and make Chinese food my husband is the main chef. We like to make fusion foods like “chao pasta,” which is stir-fried Italian pasta with vegetables and chicken or shrimp.

What’s a must-have dish for your family during festive occasions? Why?
Honestly, neither of us seems to care much about traditional holiday foods from either culture.

Are there any anecdotes you can share about the process of getting used to each other’s different diets?
When we started going to the gym and lifting weights together, my husband found it hard to get enough calories and protein eating Chinese food, so he started eating Burger King for lunch every day. It worked, but his sweat reeked of fast food so badly I had to ask him to stop.

To sum it up, what do you think of each other’s respective food cultures?
We both take what we like from each country and ignore the rest, and it works out well for us.

Rachel Bing Layburn is a Chinese Canadian, married to an Englishman. Both are partners in accounting firms, and they’re an active family, who enjoy sports like skiing and swimming. They particularly love traveling, and five-year-old William, who’s a student at Yew Chung International School of Beijing (YCIS Beijing), has already traveled to 24 countries.

Do you both enjoy food from each other’s country? Is there anything about the cuisine of the other culture that you find difficult to enjoy?
My husband thinks the Sichuan hotpot, which happens to be my favorite, is messy… and I can’t stand his comfort food, “baked beans on toast”! I still remember once when we visited Chengdu. While I had a delicious hotpot meal with the local live fish, all he had was a couple of bottles of beer and a cold dish.

Have you tried any particular dishes from your spouse’s country that were challenging? How did you compromise between your different eating habits?
He’s tried hairy crab, although he didn’t finish it as thoroughly as I would do. So sometimes, without letting him know, I’ve picked up the crab legs and eaten them again.

Where does your family stand when it comes to dining customs such as the Chinese way of sharing dishes, versus the Western way of serving individual plates?
Normally we serve Chinese food in the western way, i.e. everyone takes their own portion of rice and dishes onto their own plate, which turns out to be more convenient and takes care of the hygiene issue as well.

Do you have any preferences when cooking for your child? Which type of food does your child prefer?
I cook dumplings and fried rice, and my husband bakes pizza together with our boy, and he seems to enjoy both. I would say William’s favorite food includes both Chinese and western dishes, and he enjoys Japanese food too.

Who is usually the “Chef” in the family? What’s the go-to dish that the whole family enjoys?
Ayi normally does the cooking, but mummy’s self-developed fried rice has been accepted and highly appreciated by the whole family.

Do you have a family meal together at least once a day? Is this important to your family?
We normally have dinner together, and at the dinner table we talk about our day, what pleased us or what upset us during the day… mostly happy things of course.

What’s a must-have dish for your family during festive occasions? Why?
Dumplings for the Chinese New Year, which both my husband and our boy are addicted to. We normally go back to England for Christmas, and turkey is a must-have dish for Christmas in the UK.

Are there any anecdotes you can share about the process of getting used to each other’s different diets?
When my husband first came to China, he couldn’t bear to see a fish or pigeon with its head and tail lying on the plate. Now he loves those. Both of us have been traveling to more than 40 countries and seen cuisines from different cultures, so we’ve become more adaptive and open to accept each other or others’ different diets.

To sum it up, what do you think of each other’s respective food cultures?
Prepare food with love and do what you can do, but don’t try to be perfect!

Photos: Courtesy of Shelby Long and Rachel Bing Layburn

This article appeared on p44-45 of beijingkids December 2017 issue.

“Nobody likes me, everybody hates me, guess I’ll go and eat worms…”

So goes the old children’s song. But could you convince your children to make worms a regular part of their diet?

An Austrian company has produced a mealworm hive for the home. You feed the little wrigglers vegetable scraps from your kitchen, and harvest the larvae when they’re around three centimeters long – an environmentally friendly source of protein, vitamins and fiber. Sounds great, right?

Of course entomophagy (that’s insect-eating to you and me) has a long tradition in China. I consider myself an adventurous gourmand, and have little truck with anyone who is squeamish about consuming animals unless they have a strict vegetarian diet. I have been down to the night market at Wangfujing and munched on cricket, and I have the pictures to prove it.

My children too are broad-minded eaters. “Is this bear? It tastes like reindeer,” Noah once memorably observed in a Helsinki café. However I think bugs may be a step too far, even for them. Children’s likes and dislikes are not subject to reason. Joseph, for example, won’t eat noodles.

“But you like rice?”

“Yes.”

“And you like pasta?”

“Yes.”

“Well, this is pasta made of rice.”

“I don’t like it.”

Also, at a hefty USD499, the mealworm hive would need to produce a lot of protein before it paid for itself. Still, I see they’re selling silkworm cocoons down at the supermarket. Maybe I’ll tell the boys they’re fruit…

It was a subtle battle of cuisines. A good friend offered to cook traditional Italian food in our home this week, so the typical Chinese fare was shelved for one night. All family members were invited to partake but as the only foreigner in the family, I was the only one excited.

My friend cooked up the Italian version of polenta, something I have only eaten sporadically in my life, and it was full of various cheeses, complemented with fried mushrooms and a rich vegetable stew that acted like gravy. In addition, she whipped up a dish of broccoli pasta that the kids devoured, a bonus for the little ones not always keen for greens.

The Chinese partakers ate without grand exclamations, nodding politely. Afterwards, it was my mother-in-law who offered to do the dishes, seemingly relieved to recover her place in the kitchen.

About thirty minutes later, she emerged from the kitchen with a steaming plate of jiaozi. “I had enough filling leftover from yesterday and so I thought I’d make you some of my homemade dumplings to take home with you for your work week,” she said to my friend, eyes twinkling. I knew this was her way of saying, Your cuisine was okay, but it doesn’t compare to Chinese food!

My friend was touched by this gesture, completely unaware of the competitive flavour folded up neatly into each dumpling. She even ate a few right there on the spot. But I know my friend. To her, Chinese food is no match for the perfection of Italian. There is no contest.

I had to smirk to see such rivaling culinary positions, each without a drop of malice, occupying their own side of the table, proudly. Gastronomical focus aside, I’m just happy to be one of the eaters. 

Photos: Courtesy of Ember Swift
 

Last October, we took an eight-day tour of Yunnan with China Culture Center over the National Day holiday. Our itinerary was jam-packed; there were places to be and things to see. Since our family can be a little lackadaisical about pushing ourselves out the door and exploring new environs, we decided that a small group tour was just what we needed.

Going with a group meant we wouldn’t have to do any of the planning ourselves, but we would still get to visit many parts of a region we might otherwise not be able to discover on our own. During this trip, we explored Kunming’s karst rock forest, Dali, the UNESCO-protected town of Lijiang, and Shangri-La, which inspired a novel. We picked up a lot of information and trivia about each place we visited.

Sometimes, things just clicked. We genuinely liked the people we were touring, including our tour guides. Two of the kids in the group turned out to be my sons’ schoolmates. They were traveling with family friends who had children as well. Without any planning, there turned out to be a small group of similarly-aged kids.

The people without children turned out to be very fun. We enjoyed exploring together and winding down at the end of a long day with cold beers at the local bars. One lady in the group was such a charmer that she made friends with bar owners wherever she went. In one of the locales, an impromptu party broke out with Tibetans, Chinese, Germans, Polish, an Australian, an African and Filipinos all dancing together to world music.

Discovering Yunnan Food
One of the highlights of the trip was Yunnan’s many regional specialties. There was yak meat, fried red beans, local goat cheese, potato string pancakes, crickets for the adventurous, plenty of wild mushrooms, and lots of fresh green vegetables that were simply sauteed in garlic and a little bit of oil.

After returning to Beijing, we suffered from the usual vacation hangover. We were tired and in need of a vacation from our vacation. We missed the good food. So it was a pleasant surprise to discover that Europlaza had a really good restaurant that serves up Yunnan cuisine.

Although Treescape is not new to Shunyi, it was a new addition to our repertoire of restaurants. With a lounge in the front and a playroom for children, it is a popular choice among Shunyi families and sees brisk business for weekend lunch.

We like any of their fish dishes, which are prepared with a yummy combination of spices. We order a different one each time. All the mushroom dishes are sure to please me, while the truffle-infused dishes are a popular choice with my husband. My boys get a kick out of their standard order of bamboo rice, a sticky rice cooked inside a hollowed-out bamboo stem. The bamboo is split open at the table to reveal freshly-cooked rice peppered with peanuts.

Oddly enough, our favorites at Treescape are not necessarily dishes that we actually had in Yunnan. This was just another reminder of Chinese cuisine’s diversity. And yet, tasting Yunnan food brought us back to our favorite family holidays.

Bizarre News from Yunnan

Because we had such a good time in Yunnan, anything related to the region that comes up in the news catches our attention. I still chuckle over the amazing drama that has emerged from that part of China. The circumstances were strange and read straight from a comedy of errors.

Apparently, a couple in Yunnan was unhappy about being served from dirty bowls at a local restaurant. One complaint led to another, and the couple got into a full-blown fight with the servers when the woman was told they were short RMB 5 on their bill. The argument got physical and the couple ended up in the hospital, he with broken ribs and she with head injuries.

The woman sued for damages and reimbursement of their hospital bills, which amounted to a total of RMB 68,000. The restaurant owner came up with a creative solution. He paid back most of the amount, but reserved RMB 10,000 to pay back in 1 jiao coins. It took 18 bank clerks nine hours to count and roll up the 100,000 coins.

One year on, we are still regaled by Yunnan and its people even in our little remote corner of Shunyi. Not to worry; I’m pretty sure us waiguoren will not have this kind of experience at Treescape or elsewhere in our neighborhood.

Treescape 千景树云南菜馆
Daily, 11am-10pm. Shop 213, 2/F, Europlaza, 99 Yuxiang Lu, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District (8046 7133) 顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆时尚购物中心2层213

Photo by Dana Cosio-Mercado

Dana is the beijingkids Shunyi Correspondent. Originally from the Philippines, she moved to Beijing in 2011 (via Europe) with her husband, two sons and Rusty the dog. She enjoys writing, photography, theater, visual arts, and trying new food. In her free time, she can be found exploring the city and driving along the mountain roads of Huairou, Miyun and Pinggu.